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  1. #1
    Senior Member MuppetMower's Avatar
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    Screwed up my chain...

    So I borrowed a friends chain tool to remove my chin to do some cleaning and it didnt seem to fit just right, but I pushed the pin out fine enough(not all the way out). Went to put it back together and the pin wouldnt push back into the other side of the chain. it just pushed that wall out... and then I couldnt push the pin back out the other way.

    I decided to do some research after ****ing up my gear and I'm guessing I used a chain tool that wasnt meant for my chain. What type of chaintool should I use? I'm pretty sure my chain is 3/32", though I dont really know how to tell, but it came on my iro and other people said thats what came on theirs.

  2. #2
    Fresh Garbage hairnet's Avatar
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    Well, if you're going to regularly remove your chain for cleaning you should install a master link to make things a whole lot easier.

    it just pushed that wall out
    sounds like you placed the chain on the wrong part of the tool.
    http://bicycletutor.com/chain-tool/
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  3. #3
    Senior Member MuppetMower's Avatar
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    I did use the wrong part of the tool because the chain wouldnt fit on the correct side when i was going to put it back together. What park tool chain tool is made for 3/32" chains. I was using a CT-3.

  4. #4
    Fresh Garbage hairnet's Avatar
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    that tool works for 3/32 chains. You just werent using it correctly
    Quote Originally Posted by Scrodzilla View Post
    I'd rather ride a greasy bowling ball than one of those things.
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  5. #5
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    The chain tool should physically prevent the far side of the chain from bending out, like there should be a metal wall in the way keeping it in place.

  6. #6
    Veteran Bastard Scrodzilla's Avatar
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  7. #7
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    Time for master link. Breaking chains is a pain in the behind and will leave a weak link if not properly installed, which will be the first to fail.
    Quote Originally Posted by Santaria View Post
    because physics has more street cred than tarckstars.

  8. #8
    Veteran Bastard Scrodzilla's Avatar
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    OP is using 3/32.

    For the record, I have a CT-3 and a CT-7. I've never had a problem breaking a 3/32" chain with the CT-3 (even though it's supposedly not meant for 1/8" chains).
    Last edited by Scrodzilla; 04-13-11 at 05:14 PM. Reason: fixing typo

  9. #9
    Veteran Racer TejanoTrackie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ianjk View Post
    Time for master link. Breaking chains is a pain in the behind and will leave a weak link if not properly installed, which will be the first to fail.
    Breaking and joining a conventional 1/8 or 3/32 SS / track / BMX chain is very easy and trouble free with the proper tool http://www.parktool.com/product/p/sc...in-tool-1-CT-7[/QUOTE] and is more reliable than a master link. A master link can be just as much of a PITA to remove and install. If you break the chain at random locations, the odds are extremely small that you will break the chain at the same location more than once.
    Last edited by TejanoTrackie; 04-13-11 at 05:04 PM.
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  10. #10
    Veteran Racer TejanoTrackie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scrodzilla View Post
    OP is using 3/32.

    For the record, I have a CT-3 and a CT-7. I've never had a problem breaking a 3/32" chain with the CT-3 (even though it's supposedly meant for 1/8" chains).
    See my repost. The CT-7 will work on regular 3/32 SS chains, the old standard width for 3/32 chains before they introduced narrow chains with flush pins for closer spaced cassette cogs.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dcv View Post
    I'd like to think i have as much money as brains.

  11. #11
    Veteran Bastard Scrodzilla's Avatar
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    I made a typo.

    What I was saying is the opposite - that I often use my CT-3 (which is supposedly not meant for 1/8" chains).

  12. #12
    Senior Member MuppetMower's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scrodzilla View Post
    Thats what I was attempting to do.

  13. #13
    Senior Member MuppetMower's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hairnet View Post
    that tool works for 3/32 chains. You just werent using it correctly
    I watched the exact vid you posted before attempting to take it apart. O just barely was able to get the chain into the correct position(the chain didnt just fir there. I had to push a little) to push the pin out, but it wouldnt fit there when I was trying to get the pin back in.

    Sorry about the double post. I just went to check again to make sure I'm not an idiot. I tried to get several links into the correct position, and they did not want to go there. Maybe I have a thicker type of chian???

  14. #14
    i smell bacon yummygooey's Avatar
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    I'm curious, what's that second divider wall thing for? The one on the right? I've always just used a chain tool like the picture shows because it makes the most intuitive sense.
    // yummygooey

  15. #15
    Painfully average. calv's Avatar
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    Well what chain do you have?
    Quote Originally Posted by ThisJauntyGent View Post
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  16. #16
    Constant tinkerer FastJake's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by yummygooey View Post
    I'm curious, what's that second divider wall thing for? The one on the right? I've always just used a chain tool like the picture shows because it makes the most intuitive sense.
    Once you push the pin back, the chain will be stiff at that location. Putting the chain in the other section of the tool and giving it just a little pressure will free up the link nicely.
    Why "derailer" is the correct way to spell the gear-change mechanism: sheldonbrown.com/derailer.html

  17. #17
    i smell bacon yummygooey's Avatar
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    Ah! Gotcha.
    // yummygooey

  18. #18
    Veteran Bastard Scrodzilla's Avatar
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    Ding ding ding! We're now pulling into Overcomplication Station!

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