Screwed up my chain...
#1
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Screwed up my chain...
So I borrowed a friends chain tool to remove my chin to do some cleaning and it didnt seem to fit just right, but I pushed the pin out fine enough(not all the way out). Went to put it back together and the pin wouldnt push back into the other side of the chain. it just pushed that wall out... and then I couldnt push the pin back out the other way.
I decided to do some research after ****ing up my gear and I'm guessing I used a chain tool that wasnt meant for my chain. What type of chaintool should I use? I'm pretty sure my chain is 3/32", though I dont really know how to tell, but it came on my iro and other people said thats what came on theirs.
I decided to do some research after ****ing up my gear and I'm guessing I used a chain tool that wasnt meant for my chain. What type of chaintool should I use? I'm pretty sure my chain is 3/32", though I dont really know how to tell, but it came on my iro and other people said thats what came on theirs.
#2
Fresh Garbage
Well, if you're going to regularly remove your chain for cleaning you should install a master link to make things a whole lot easier.
sounds like you placed the chain on the wrong part of the tool.
https://bicycletutor.com/chain-tool/
it just pushed that wall out
https://bicycletutor.com/chain-tool/
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I did use the wrong part of the tool because the chain wouldnt fit on the correct side when i was going to put it back together. What park tool chain tool is made for 3/32" chains. I was using a CT-3.
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The chain tool should physically prevent the far side of the chain from bending out, like there should be a metal wall in the way keeping it in place.
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Time for master link. Breaking chains is a pain in the behind and will leave a weak link if not properly installed, which will be the first to fail.
#8
Your cog is slipping.
OP is using 3/32.
For the record, I have a CT-3 and a CT-7. I've never had a problem breaking a 3/32" chain with the CT-3 (even though it's supposedly not meant for 1/8" chains).
For the record, I have a CT-3 and a CT-7. I've never had a problem breaking a 3/32" chain with the CT-3 (even though it's supposedly not meant for 1/8" chains).
Last edited by Scrodzilla; 04-13-11 at 05:14 PM. Reason: fixing typo
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See my repost. The CT-7 will work on regular 3/32 SS chains, the old standard width for 3/32 chains before they introduced narrow chains with flush pins for closer spaced cassette cogs.
#11
Your cog is slipping.
I made a typo.
What I was saying is the opposite - that I often use my CT-3 (which is supposedly not meant for 1/8" chains).
What I was saying is the opposite - that I often use my CT-3 (which is supposedly not meant for 1/8" chains).
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I watched the exact vid you posted before attempting to take it apart. O just barely was able to get the chain into the correct position(the chain didnt just fir there. I had to push a little) to push the pin out, but it wouldnt fit there when I was trying to get the pin back in.
Sorry about the double post. I just went to check again to make sure I'm not an idiot. I tried to get several links into the correct position, and they did not want to go there. Maybe I have a thicker type of chian???
Sorry about the double post. I just went to check again to make sure I'm not an idiot. I tried to get several links into the correct position, and they did not want to go there. Maybe I have a thicker type of chian???
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I'm curious, what's that second divider wall thing for? The one on the right? I've always just used a chain tool like the picture shows because it makes the most intuitive sense.
#16
Constant tinkerer
Once you push the pin back, the chain will be stiff at that location. Putting the chain in the other section of the tool and giving it just a little pressure will free up the link nicely.
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