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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

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Old 05-25-11, 12:44 PM   #1
flyhipy
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Vintage Peugeot Fixed Gear Conversion

I have an early 80's Peugeot Super Competition that I am converting to fixed gear and have a few questions before reassembling.

First, my bottom bracket doesn't indicate any wear, so I was just going to replace the bearings and put it back together. I have french threading (everything turns right on both sides). Is there any reason with a fixed gear to possibly upgrade to an aftermarket bottom bracket? Not really worried about the minimal cost here.

Second, as for my crankset - It has the factory stronglight crank and chainrings. I was just going to use that with only the smaller (42 tooth) ring. However, once I pulled the cranks I noticed that my non-chainring side crank arm is some cheap (and fairly heavy) japanese arm. Any good cheap crank arms and chainrings for fixed gear you guys know of that will work with my bottom bracket? Or should I try to source the missing stronglight arm and use the 42 tooth ring.

Third, I also think the headset is fine and was just going to clean that up and replace the bearings - any issues with that?

Finally, I was hoping to pick up a wheelset that won't require much adjustment for the proper chainline - anyone done a conversion on one of these and have any suggestions?

Thanks! Also, please forego the "don't convert it to fixed" comments - I know its a nice bike, and I rescued it from certain rusty doom, am not going to cut off any braze-ons, and already have a modern commuter and a vintage road bike - this needs to fill the fixed gear void I currently face.
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Old 05-25-11, 01:15 PM   #2
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1) No worries using the original BB parts as long as they're smooth.

2) I'd lean toward keeping the Stronglight crank; it's likely as good or better quality than any inexpensive modern replacements you might find. What model is it? Orphan arms often appear on eBay.

3) Chances are your steer tube is also French thread, which would make replacing the headset problematic unless you also replace the fork. If there's nothing wrong with the original headset I'd keep using it. The crown race is the most likely part to show wear. If it is worn, you may be able to replace it (or both the crown race and lower pressed cup) with a similar race from an ISO headset and keep using the French threaded parts.

4) Are you planning on buying specific SS/FG wheels? If so, simply running the chainring on the inner plateau of the crank often gives a usable chainline with no further adjustment.
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Old 05-25-11, 04:14 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson View Post
1) No worries using the original BB parts as long as they're smooth.

2) I'd lean toward keeping the Stronglight crank; it's likely as good or better quality than any inexpensive modern replacements you might find. What model is it? Orphan arms often appear on eBay.
+1. Also it's probably an ISO taper BB spindle; using a JIS crank will throw off your chainline calculations a little (Sheldon says 4.5mm further in than on a JIS spindle of the same length.)

Last edited by rcschafer; 05-25-11 at 04:14 PM. Reason: closed parens
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Old 05-25-11, 05:33 PM   #4
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You can find left arms on eBay for about $30 last I checked.

If you want to replace the crank anyway, new Campagnolo cranksets use an ISO taper, but the existing spindle might be too wide.

In my experience keeping the stock BB and headset is far easier than replacing them. If the bearing races are not damaged then they are literally as good as new and should continue to work well for many years.
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Old 05-25-11, 05:40 PM   #5
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Thanks! I'm keeping the BB and headset stock and installing tomorrow. I'll keep my eye out for a left arm- there is one on ebay right now, but it looks far newer than my current arm. I'll have to check measurements. Now I just need a wheelset and chain!
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Old 05-25-11, 05:53 PM   #6
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Stronglight stuff is on eBay all the time. Find out your crank model and I bet an arm will show up sometime in the next few weeks. You could continue to use the Japanese arm until then.
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Old 05-25-11, 07:24 PM   #7
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Since knowledge has already been dropped. How bout some before/after photos?
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Old 05-26-11, 01:27 AM   #8
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Sure thing - here are a few before photos. Also, a picture of the Stronglight crank - should I rock the 52 ring or just use the smaller 42? I haven't bought wheels or a cog yet, so as of now all options are still open! If anyone knows where I can source my mismatched crank arm for this SL set, let me know!

Attached Images
File Type: jpg PX10.jpg (103.9 KB, 38 views)
File Type: jpg PX10crank.jpg (104.0 KB, 34 views)
File Type: jpg PX10-2.jpg (103.4 KB, 37 views)
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Old 05-26-11, 01:45 AM   #9
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I would want to keep the bigger ring, looks way more badass.
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Old 05-26-11, 05:42 PM   #10
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I ride a '79 peugeot super sport that i found behind a dumpster and converted to a fixed gear. i have replaced the wheels and cranks on it and a few other minor stuff such as handlebars and taken it apart a number of times, so i have some experience. and i know for sure that you will need a new fork and headset if you are wanting to replace them. and as for replacing the cranks, only do it if you want to change your chainring size. the stronglights are good cranks, but you cannot upgrade them anymore because they are older and have french threading. they also only have a three arm crank and to find chainrings that fit it is near impossible for a good price. i looked on ebay and the only ones i could find were $100 bucks or more. and also you need a special crank puller with a french threading to get the cranks off without ruining them. and sadly enough you cant buy those anymore. so i would only take your cranks off if you dont want them anymore or have the right tool or if you want to change chainrings to something between a 42 and 52. but otherwise i would keep them cuz they are a good crank. also, the bottom bracket is not sealed so you can take it apart and replace the bearings and clean it up, so if you know how to do that i wold not get a new BB cuz the one you have should be good. as for wheels go, almost anything will do. if you want a cheap pair of wheels i hear eigthinch amelias are good for the price. and also, definitely try and replace the left arm crank if you can, shouldnt be too hard or expensive.

so in all, i would not replace the BB or cranks or anything that does not need replacing. simply clean it up and lube it and you should be good to go.
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Old 05-26-11, 10:24 PM   #11
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i had to flip the spindle backwards to make the chainline within 2mm. it was either that or running the chain ring on the inside of the crank arm and that doesnt look as nice. if the chain line is off then you can consider flipping the spindle and installing it backwards so the shorter end is on the drive side. not sure if its politically correct but it works great...
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Old 05-27-11, 10:10 AM   #12
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It looks like a Stronglight 104 crank. Is the extractor thread 22.0mm or 23.35mm?

I actually have a set of these arms I'd be willing to trade or sell:

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Old 05-27-11, 10:43 AM   #13
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It looks like a Stronglight 104 crank. Is the extractor thread 22.0mm or 23.35mm?

I actually have a set of these arms I'd be willing to trade or sell:

I think it is actually a 106. I'll try to confirm, but the drive crank does not look like the one you have (doesn't say peugeot on it, just stronglight)
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