brakes on nonmachined rims
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brakes on nonmachined rims
i know everyone says it's not a great idea, but i never noticed any saying anything outside of cosmetic/squeaking problems. so, i tried it. but my brakes are sticking very badly. i was riding down a hill and it jammed so bad that i flew off the bike and had to put a good amount of effort into unsticking it. does anyone know if the problem stems from the rims not being machined, my brakes or my brake pads? and how to fix it? i'm running tektro 521AG brakes on velocity chukkers. i've tried cleaning both the rim and the brakes with rubbing alcohol and taking some sandpaper lightly to the rims, though the problem is still there.
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well, if i hit the brakes hard while going fast the brakes get stuck to the rim. they lock the wheel completely, and i have to force the wheel backwards by hand to break them free.
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Brakes work by converting mechanical energy into heat. Your brake pads are melting because the material they're made from is too soft. Also, machined braking surfaces are left rough, which allows the rim to scrape material off them, and allows the pad to contact less of the rim surface, which cuts down on heat. Upgrade your pads, either to a cork pad or to one with a harder compound. Also, stop jamming on the brakes.
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Are we just going to ignore the fact that using brakes on un-machined hoops is a stupid idea? Either deal with the fact that you should not be running brakes on your current rims, or get yourself new hoops with machined faces. Simple as that.
In the future just stick to machined rims. Non-machined shouldn't be used in a situation where you would need brakes to begin with.
In the future just stick to machined rims. Non-machined shouldn't be used in a situation where you would need brakes to begin with.
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Are we just going to ignore the fact that using brakes on un-machined hoops is a stupid idea? Either deal with the fact that you should not be running brakes on your current rims, or get yourself new hoops with machined faces. Simple as that.
In the future just stick to machined rims. Non-machined shouldn't be used in a situation where you would need brakes to begin with.
In the future just stick to machined rims. Non-machined shouldn't be used in a situation where you would need brakes to begin with.
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Are we just going to ignore the fact that using brakes on un-machined hoops is a stupid idea? Either deal with the fact that you should not be running brakes on your current rims, or get yourself new hoops with machined faces. Simple as that.
In the future just stick to machined rims. Non-machined shouldn't be used in a situation where you would need brakes to begin with.
In the future just stick to machined rims. Non-machined shouldn't be used in a situation where you would need brakes to begin with.
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Never had brakepads glue themselves to machined or non-machined rims. I've had some not want to return because they were set too low and grew a lip, but that's about it.
#9
Your cog is slipping.
Thank you for your contribution. This ranks as some of the worst "advice" I've read in a while.
Last edited by Scrodzilla; 05-29-11 at 07:56 AM.
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FWIW,a co-worker bought a new '10 gutterball and it came with front and rear brakes on NMSW powdercoated rims.It sounds and looks like crap, but stops fine (he's a fair weather rider, so no wet rim slippage).
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non machined rims that are anodized or bare, like my campy shamals are fine/normal to use with brakes. The Painted rims are not the best ones to use
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yeah they are anodized, the melting is probably not aided by baltimore being humid as hell right now. what brake pads would you suggest, all the cork ones i've found are close to $100, i'm not ready to spend that much right now since i just got done paying off the bike.
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Huh?
This all sounds like BS to me. One brake application enough to weld pads to rims?
Unless my reading comprehension has gone totally missing, there's something amiss, I doubt it has anything to do with pads composition or rim machining. More like brake install problems or damaged rims.
This all sounds like BS to me. One brake application enough to weld pads to rims?
Unless my reading comprehension has gone totally missing, there's something amiss, I doubt it has anything to do with pads composition or rim machining. More like brake install problems or damaged rims.
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Huh?
This all sounds like BS to me. One brake application enough to weld pads to rims?
Unless my reading comprehension has gone totally missing, there's something amiss, I doubt it has anything to do with pads composition or rim machining. More like brake install problems or damaged rims.
This all sounds like BS to me. One brake application enough to weld pads to rims?
Unless my reading comprehension has gone totally missing, there's something amiss, I doubt it has anything to do with pads composition or rim machining. More like brake install problems or damaged rims.
and yeah i looked at a few sites and they all were around $75, got frustrated and stopped looking. i looked again today, i found a lot cheaper ones and feel a bit foolish for giving up the search.
Last edited by bschmukler; 05-31-11 at 10:34 AM. Reason: proofreading
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I'm inclined to believe it can happen. One stop on my carbon rims with stock pads (not carbon-specific) and I lost literally half the pads in melted little curlies. Wrong toe-in with a set of pads with the prominent rear 'water wiper' and flexy arms can easily make a set of brakes self-locking, so to speak. I have indeed seen it happen. It is, however, primarily an adjustment and parts quality issue, rather than an issue with the anodized rims. I have run anodized rims since the dawn of aluminum rims, and have only had issues in the rain with cheap pads. Good pads, and no issues whatsoever. All 4 of my track bikes have anodized rims, 3 of which have front brakes installed. No issues at all.
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