Got some more questions I wanted to get help with
#26
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Jason, I will buy off of BD if I can't get one for sure. That makes the most sense. I will go Mercier of course.
The SS shop has linus, subrosa, fuji mainly. good store..they quoted me on a MTB SS conversion and it was under $100.
The SS shop has linus, subrosa, fuji mainly. good store..they quoted me on a MTB SS conversion and it was under $100.
#27
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I am finding some "vintage" fuji frame builds that are fixies now. I am trying to figure out if the sizing is the same as I have read..where basically a 56 is a 54 in Fuji for example. Also, how to tell if it's a track frame. I definitely want the pedal clearance.
#28
Senior Member
Thread Starter
anyone who can..please let me know if you can tell what Fuji frame this is (track or road)? It is Single Speed right now, but I am wondering how much it would be to convert to fixed. It has full speed ahead racing wheels, new tires, nitto riser and nitto olympian bars with new black wrap, answer seat post. Would appreciate any feedback on this one, since I am still figuring this stuff out.
I am guessing if it is a freewheel, I'd have to drop at least another $100 to convert to fixed.
I am guessing if it is a freewheel, I'd have to drop at least another $100 to convert to fixed.
#29
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That photo makes it really hard to tell, but it looks to me like a road frame with vertical dropouts, so it's a very bad candidate for FG conversion.
#30
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Thread Starter
Thanks, that is what I am thinking as well. I have a fuji track frame that I am also looking at, so I think I will go in that direction and hopefully get this done today.
another bad CList pick, but this is the Fuji track frame..not sure which one until I see it up close I guess.
another bad CList pick, but this is the Fuji track frame..not sure which one until I see it up close I guess.
#32
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Thread Starter
So Cromo frame, but what are the negatives of the headset and stem? Worth $300 to you or less?
and I am seeing some threads after some hardcore googling about the threaded/quilled. It looks like my options would be limited on upgrading and I would have to buy new stuff for it down the road. I really appreciate that you could see this because I am not sure I'd drop $300 on it now since it will cost me more money than expected to upgrade how I want it.
and I am seeing some threads after some hardcore googling about the threaded/quilled. It looks like my options would be limited on upgrading and I would have to buy new stuff for it down the road. I really appreciate that you could see this because I am not sure I'd drop $300 on it now since it will cost me more money than expected to upgrade how I want it.
Last edited by Bomb Komodo; 06-03-11 at 08:49 AM.
#34
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Well, you can essentially buy the same bike as new for the same amount, and you'd be getting the convenience of a modern threadless headset and stem instead of threaded. Threaded is old design and is now only used on some very cheap bikes or perhaps some ultra expensive vintage replicas. See these 2 bikes
https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...essenger_x.htm
The one on the left is the current Moto Messenger with 1-1/8" threadless stem with the convenience of being flipable, easy headset adjustment and bar removal. It is also a very strong and reliable. The one on the right is the old model with 1" threaded headset and quill stem, that lack the advantages of threadless and you can damage the steerer tube if you overtighten the stem cap bolt. Also, if you want to change the stem your choices are relatively limited compared to 1-1/8" threadless.
https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...essenger_x.htm
The one on the left is the current Moto Messenger with 1-1/8" threadless stem with the convenience of being flipable, easy headset adjustment and bar removal. It is also a very strong and reliable. The one on the right is the old model with 1" threaded headset and quill stem, that lack the advantages of threadless and you can damage the steerer tube if you overtighten the stem cap bolt. Also, if you want to change the stem your choices are relatively limited compared to 1-1/8" threadless.
#35
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Thread Starter
Wow..really? thanks, I didn't want to lowball the guy with $200, since I am not as educated as you folks on the bikes yet, but that saves me some serious cash. Is it worth it at that price? I feel like a good fuji track frame that is actually my size should be a nice ride, but I know you fellas would know better.
#36
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Ok the CL adventures continue. I found an 80s Team Fuji road bike. Still geared. It's a 54cm and I am wondering if road bikes fit biggeer than tracks due to their looser geo? I have heard good things about this frame..anyone convert it before?
#37
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Update for those who care..I bought the Fuji..this bike is so sick for the price of 200. It has downstem shifters and horizontal dropouts. Top tube as usual is a little high for me, but i am not stretched too far over the bike, which is more important. I have a long torso, short inseam so I had to make a choice there. the 50s just seem to small, and this 54cm fuji feels like a 52 to me. Lots of upgrades on the bike though..new 700 x23 tires
I will be converting this baby asap since the downstem shifters are not my thing, and it rides so good in it's current gear. Best thing is how easy it handles brick and uneven roads..just feels buttery smooth.
Compared to the Madison I rode and the SE, this is a far better frame.
I will be converting this baby asap since the downstem shifters are not my thing, and it rides so good in it's current gear. Best thing is how easy it handles brick and uneven roads..just feels buttery smooth.
Compared to the Madison I rode and the SE, this is a far better frame.
#38
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I went ripping through town on this thing..did a night ride as well..soo good. It has drop bars on it that are perfect right now for me. The brakes are in that bullhorn position. I personally don't like it that much for more than 5 minutes. I love upright, and grabbing the drops when I am really getting speed going. So I am removing the back brake and will have the front brake near the stem.
For the roads here, the lbs is setting me up with 700s and 28 width on a deep v wheel in the back. I will have this thing converted by the weekend. Will be sick. For now i am going to run the 23mm up front and than upgrade that one in a month. I will then also get 165mm cranks, since my current ones are 170. That will pretty much give me a nasty setup for commuting and I think that will about do it. Quad butted steel chromo frame..just awesome so far.
Had a nice first wipeout where I skidded on a slick pothole during a turn and went headfirst into a bush durin the nightride and banged my junk against the seat. Got readjusted and moved on. Pretty sure at that moment I fell in love.
For the roads here, the lbs is setting me up with 700s and 28 width on a deep v wheel in the back. I will have this thing converted by the weekend. Will be sick. For now i am going to run the 23mm up front and than upgrade that one in a month. I will then also get 165mm cranks, since my current ones are 170. That will pretty much give me a nasty setup for commuting and I think that will about do it. Quad butted steel chromo frame..just awesome so far.
Had a nice first wipeout where I skidded on a slick pothole during a turn and went headfirst into a bush durin the nightride and banged my junk against the seat. Got readjusted and moved on. Pretty sure at that moment I fell in love.
Last edited by Bomb Komodo; 06-08-11 at 10:47 PM.