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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

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Old 06-30-11, 01:49 AM   #1
fr33zy
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How to put on crank arms after removing with crank extractor?

after removing them to clean using the crank tool, i can't seem to get them back on all the way in, is there a tool or something i should be doing? thanks
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Old 06-30-11, 01:55 AM   #2
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They should torque down with the crank bolts.

What kind of cranks are they?
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Old 06-30-11, 02:22 AM   #3
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Torque bolts to spec, ride, re-torque to under spec- just snug. Repeat once or twice, but don't crank down on them after the first time or you risk splitting the cranks.


Above assumes standard square taper.
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Old 06-30-11, 03:21 AM   #4
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Just don't go to take off your left crank arm while listening to music and talking to friends, put the crank puller on, twist it really hard, strip it's threads and the crank arm threads because you weren't paying attention and forgot to take off the allen >.>

Yeah I did that two days ago, stupid distractions ruined my tool and my crank arm is most likely stuck on for good now. Anyone know if i can use a tap to rethread it?
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Old 06-30-11, 11:56 AM   #5
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They should torque down with the crank bolts.

What kind of cranks are they?
i'll have to twist harder..but **** is not going in. *pause*
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Old 06-30-11, 11:59 AM   #6
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if you pulled all the threads out, you wont be able to re-tap to the same size, and I doubt they make helicoils large enough.

You can likely still get the crank arm off though, by removing the allen & using a mallet to knock the arm loose. Alternately, can ride with the allen off, but as soon as it begins to loosen up you need to be able to stop as to not risk damaging the BB.
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Old 06-30-11, 11:59 AM   #7
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i'll have to twist harder..but **** is not going in. *pause*
Are you sure they aren't on as far as original? Some BB taper may normally be visible.
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Old 06-30-11, 02:32 PM   #8
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^ yeah, you will almost surely still have some bb spindle visible. You don't need to tighten it down THAT much.
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Old 06-30-11, 07:30 PM   #9
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so the arms don't have to go all the way, flat along the bb? originally that's how it was though..now it won't go back
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Old 06-30-11, 07:44 PM   #10
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so the arms don't have to go all the way, flat along the bb? originally that's how it was though..now it won't go back
How about you say what kind of cranks they are so one of us can give you a better answer?
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Old 06-30-11, 08:14 PM   #11
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as long as it isn't obviously crooked or wobbly then it's fine. On a side note , I hope you didn't grease the taper, never ever ever grease the taper.

But anyway --I've never see a crank arm that seats completely against the BB shell, there is always a gap, some more some less .. if it's on the taper and your chicken arms can't tighten it anymore then it's on! ... check it in a week for snugness.
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Old 06-30-11, 08:17 PM   #12
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Alternately, can ride with the allen off, but as soon as it begins to loosen up you need to be able to stop as to not risk damaging the BB.
yeah you might bust your a** too, or knock your teeth out.
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Old 06-30-11, 08:20 PM   #13
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How about you say what kind of cranks they are so one of us can give you a better answer?
shimano
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Old 06-30-11, 08:23 PM   #14
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Wow...that narrows it down.
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Old 06-30-11, 08:33 PM   #15
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Wow...that narrows it down.
it's on an old bike i'm converting, shimano 105 ring a bell?
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Old 06-30-11, 08:36 PM   #16
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Of course. As others have said, there's supposed to be a gap between the crank arm and the BB shell.
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Old 06-30-11, 09:39 PM   #17
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thanks for the help guys, and apologies if my noobness struck a wrong cord.
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Old 06-30-11, 09:52 PM   #18
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Ha...no worries mang!
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