Sturmey Tensioner
#1
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Sturmey Tensioner
I typically lurk in the C&V forums, but have a question that is more properly addressed here so here goes.
I purchased a SRAM i-Motion 9 hub for my Cannondale Quick CX Rigid (I hate derailleurs, I have discovered) and am planning on installing it with a Shimano NX-80 crankset and Sturmey CTS8X tensioner. Does anyone here have experience with the Sturmey tensioner? If so, please share your experiences.
I purchased a SRAM i-Motion 9 hub for my Cannondale Quick CX Rigid (I hate derailleurs, I have discovered) and am planning on installing it with a Shimano NX-80 crankset and Sturmey CTS8X tensioner. Does anyone here have experience with the Sturmey tensioner? If so, please share your experiences.
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So am I to assume nobody here has used a Sturmey tensioner?
#3
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I got an Alfine tensioner for a project, and it worked out, but figured I'd try a S/A tensioner if I ever needed another one. Just to find out what they were like. But no need, so far. One of the few -- Alfine, and I think the Paul Melvin are the other two -- with double pulley, where you could actually set the bike up for front shifting. Single pulley tensioners don't wrap enough chain for that.
All that said, if you don't need or want front shifting, you could use pretty much any single pulley tensioner out there...
All that said, if you don't need or want front shifting, you could use pretty much any single pulley tensioner out there...
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At this point, I'm unsure whether I will be keeping the triple chainrings, so that's why I'm thinking the double-wheel design may be more appropriate. Even if I go to the single chainring and eliminate the triple, having the double-wheel surely won't hurt anything.
Thanks much for the input!
Thanks much for the input!
#5
Senior Member
No prob.
Of course, you could also use pretty much any rear derailleur to the same effect if you're just messing around. Either set the high limit screw to where you need it, or if you run out of adjustment there, use a short -- 3-4" -- shift or brake cable with the head inside the derailleur cable adjuster. Eyeball the proper positioning when clamping down on the cable, fine tune with the barrel adjuster.
Of course, you could also use pretty much any rear derailleur to the same effect if you're just messing around. Either set the high limit screw to where you need it, or if you run out of adjustment there, use a short -- 3-4" -- shift or brake cable with the head inside the derailleur cable adjuster. Eyeball the proper positioning when clamping down on the cable, fine tune with the barrel adjuster.
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