Well sooooorrryy

http://www.thelearningcommunity.us/P...an%20apple.jpg

Hey Scrod, what's a better use of my time/funds: build the hell out of my Lager (meaning keep frame and fork and not much else) or buy a new, higher end frame and build that (leader comes to mind...) Or just buy a moderately better complete rig? I'm leaning toward buying a better frame and building that...

The problem with buying any complete bike is that most people very rarely leave them stock and begin "upgrading" stuff right from the start, resulting in what may end up costing more money than if you built a bike piece by piece. What completes come to mind and what components are on your Lager now?

Scrod,

I'm looking for a new chainring for my bike. The shop that did the build-up put it together with a collection of swapped-out and bin parts, I somehow ended up with a 3/32" chainring on my FSA crankset. This is causing some noise and discontent with me, as I like things to match mechanically on machines. Don't know if you can see in the pic, but the ring is wearing quickly too. I also need to wash my bike.

http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/3282/bike003l.jpg

The chain is 1/8" and the rear cog is too. Having never bought a replacement chainring, what should I look for? Obviously the bolt pattern must match, so I need the spacing measurement. Materials? Finish? I've seen on here that chrome rings on black cranks is a faux-pas. Worthwhile to swap out the ring, or just run it into the ground and upgrade the crankset next year? I'm running 46x17 and quite happy with the ratio at the moment. This is my commuter bike, and I ride about 12k per day. What would you do?

Unless you're looking to change your gear ratio by getting a bigger or smaller chainring there really isn't any need to replace it and from the pic, it doesn't look very worn to me. Angie runs a 3/32" ring with a 1/8" cog and chain on her 721 and her drivetrain hardly ever makes a sound. Is your chain too tight/dry or is your chainline off?

If you're hell-bent on buying a 1/8" chainring, how much are you planning on spending? By the way - your bcd is 130.

On the Lager, I have FSA Vero cranks and bb, generic saddle stem and bars, tektro front brake and lever, Brooks B15 narrow/SE branded Velo saddles, Rev-X synthetic tape, Shimano FW, Surly Cog, SRAM chain, Alex R500 rims laced to unbranded (but I think they're Formula) hubs, Kenda Kwick Roller tires, Tange Seiki headset (threadless). 99% stock.

If I were to rebuild, I'd pretty much keep the frame and fork, and that's probably it.

Complete wise, I haven't done a ton of research, so I'm not sure. Figure $1000 budget either way, cuz my wife would kill me if I did more.

That's good to know. I dunno about the noise, I clean everything every other week, and I'm using a wax-based lube (squirt). After it's serviced, everything is quiet. The noise comes back slowly, and I'm attributing it to the slop in the chain side-to-side over the ring. As far as I can tell, my chainline and chain tension is correct.

I really don't know how much money I should spend on such a part. I'm guessing it's overkill to put a high-end ring on an entry level crank. Perhaps wait for Santa-Claus to bring me a new crankset (I've been a good boy).

EighthInch makes a decent, inexpensive 130bcd chainring.

Before replacing anything, try taking just a little bit of the tension out of your chain and using a wet lube instead (but don't overdo it or you'll have a real mess). Most wax-type lubes are designed to dry up and flake off - taking dirt and crud along with it - but need to be reapplied way too often for my liking.

Speaking of chain lube, how often should the chain be lubed? (Both wet and dry)

You leave Henry out of this.

There's no actual answer to this, as there are too many variables. It really depends on how much you ride and how often you clean your chain. Your chain should never be dry or caked with gunk.

Dear scrod, Whats the easiest and best tire levers? I have pedros right now, Wonder what you use.

I use Pedros as well and have never needed more than one.

Hmm thats what im thinking, i love them. Quick question What do you do when you have a tire with a really really stiff bead, Like you really have to wrestle the tire. I always run into trouble with gatorskins. on a good day i dont hurt my self.

To get them on or off? To install a stubborn tire, I use a Kool Stop Bead Jack:

http://www.hostelshoppe.com/images/p...rebeadjack.jpg

Scrod,

Would you recommend getting a track bike strictly for road/city use? I've seen a thread or two, but I'm seeking more info. I'll use it for 5-10 mile joy rides and possibly commuting on it 10-20 miles. I'm in L.A. and there may be some slight hills.

I'm currently on a Raleigh One Way (cromo frame) and I'm looking for something a little bit lighter, quicker and faster on the road, but not something where I'll feel every single bump on the road and my back will pay for it later.

Thinking along the lines of a Leader 725/735, FTP, Jamis Sonik type bike, but I want to be informed about which bikes suit which type of riding. Thanks.

Sure, why not? My 725 has proven to be pretty versatile and is great for both bombing around town and doing long rides, especially now that I've got it weighing under 18lbs. I've done quite a few half-centuries this year and the only real drawback is the lack of bottle bosses but I've got a few detachable ones that do the trick. It's also surprisingly less harsh of a ride than I was expecting. Still not as forgiving as my steel 722, but nice and smooth nonetheless.

If you go aluminum, you're definitely going to want a carbon fork though. Trust me.

Good stuff Scrod, you da man.

A carbon fork for an alu frame? Is that because of weight, shock absorption, durability or what? I'm new to this so I have no idea.

Thanks.

Black Flag would have been a better band if they left him out...

If i'm not mistaken, it's because good carbon is lighter, stiffer, and absorbs bumps on the road a LOT better than alu does. or damn, I just might be crazy.

Calv is right on all counts but the most important reason is vibration dampening. Think of a tuning fork made of aluminum:
http://www.wholesaletip.com/image/56...ag-56425_1.jpg
designed to resonate a note and ring for a pretty long time. If you were to make a tuning fork out of carbon, it would just "clunk" when you hit it and have very little vibration and as a result, no resonating sound. Now translate that same thing to a bike fork.

Or kicked him out after Damaged.

i think this is only true to a degree. while its true a aluminum fork will 'sing' over bumps --aluminum frames do too-- i think if the fork is shaped right* the vibrations can be moderated. my 1990 cdale is all aluminum frame/fork and is really comfortable. the fork barely 'sings' over the worst terrains.

*i cannot tell you what 'shape' is right, im no engineer. i'd imagine not much effort is put into building a smooth aluminum fork nowadays when a carbon fork could be had.

Okay...take a what's considered a nice aluminum fork, hold it in your hand and gently hit it with the end of a screwdriver. It will resonate a sound. Now do it with a carbon fork.

I'm no engineer either but I know what will happen.

I'm not sure that is a realistic test.

Try the same thing, but with a wheel installed in each fork.

Not much resonance from either, right?