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Thread: Ask Scrod

  1. #276
    Painfully average. calv's Avatar
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    Well sooooorrryy

    Quote Originally Posted by ThisJauntyGent View Post
    The stories about the smell are absolutely true: straight elephant dick.
    All City Mr Pink

  2. #277
    Hi, I'm Bryan. jimmytango's Avatar
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    Hey Scrod, what's a better use of my time/funds: build the hell out of my Lager (meaning keep frame and fork and not much else) or buy a new, higher end frame and build that (leader comes to mind...) Or just buy a moderately better complete rig? I'm leaning toward buying a better frame and building that...
    I am not the company I keep.

  3. #278
    Veteran Bastard Scrodzilla's Avatar
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    The problem with buying any complete bike is that most people very rarely leave them stock and begin "upgrading" stuff right from the start, resulting in what may end up costing more money than if you built a bike piece by piece. What completes come to mind and what components are on your Lager now?

  4. #279
    Senior Member thelastleroy's Avatar
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    Scrod,

    I'm looking for a new chainring for my bike. The shop that did the build-up put it together with a collection of swapped-out and bin parts, I somehow ended up with a 3/32" chainring on my FSA crankset. This is causing some noise and discontent with me, as I like things to match mechanically on machines. Don't know if you can see in the pic, but the ring is wearing quickly too. I also need to wash my bike.



    The chain is 1/8" and the rear cog is too. Having never bought a replacement chainring, what should I look for? Obviously the bolt pattern must match, so I need the spacing measurement. Materials? Finish? I've seen on here that chrome rings on black cranks is a faux-pas. Worthwhile to swap out the ring, or just run it into the ground and upgrade the crankset next year? I'm running 46x17 and quite happy with the ratio at the moment. This is my commuter bike, and I ride about 12k per day. What would you do?
    Run a gear you are comfortable with, rock a brake, and if you haven't done so already... learn how to spin.

    After that, do you have a sister you can borrow some jeans from ?
    -Sixty Fiver

  5. #280
    Veteran Bastard Scrodzilla's Avatar
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    Unless you're looking to change your gear ratio by getting a bigger or smaller chainring there really isn't any need to replace it and from the pic, it doesn't look very worn to me. Angie runs a 3/32" ring with a 1/8" cog and chain on her 721 and her drivetrain hardly ever makes a sound. Is your chain too tight/dry or is your chainline off?

    If you're hell-bent on buying a 1/8" chainring, how much are you planning on spending? By the way - your bcd is 130.

  6. #281
    Hi, I'm Bryan. jimmytango's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scrodzilla View Post
    The problem with buying any complete bike is that most people very rarely leave them stock and begin "upgrading" stuff right from the start, resulting in what may end up costing more money than if you built a bike piece by piece. What completes come to mind and what components are on your Lager now?
    On the Lager, I have FSA Vero cranks and bb, generic saddle stem and bars, tektro front brake and lever, Brooks B15 narrow/SE branded Velo saddles, Rev-X synthetic tape, Shimano FW, Surly Cog, SRAM chain, Alex R500 rims laced to unbranded (but I think they're Formula) hubs, Kenda Kwick Roller tires, Tange Seiki headset (threadless). 99% stock.

    If I were to rebuild, I'd pretty much keep the frame and fork, and that's probably it.

    Complete wise, I haven't done a ton of research, so I'm not sure. Figure $1000 budget either way, cuz my wife would kill me if I did more.
    I am not the company I keep.

  7. #282
    Senior Member thelastleroy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scrodzilla View Post
    Angie runs a 3/32" ring with a 1/8" cog and chain on her 721 and her drivetrain hardly ever makes a sound. Is your chain too tight/dry or is your chainline off?

    If you're hell-bent on buying a 1/8" chainring, how much are you planning on spending? By the way - your bcd is 130.

    That's good to know. I dunno about the noise, I clean everything every other week, and I'm using a wax-based lube (squirt). After it's serviced, everything is quiet. The noise comes back slowly, and I'm attributing it to the slop in the chain side-to-side over the ring. As far as I can tell, my chainline and chain tension is correct.

    I really don't know how much money I should spend on such a part. I'm guessing it's overkill to put a high-end ring on an entry level crank. Perhaps wait for Santa-Claus to bring me a new crankset (I've been a good boy).
    Run a gear you are comfortable with, rock a brake, and if you haven't done so already... learn how to spin.

    After that, do you have a sister you can borrow some jeans from ?
    -Sixty Fiver

  8. #283
    Veteran Bastard Scrodzilla's Avatar
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    EighthInch makes a decent, inexpensive 130bcd chainring.

    Before replacing anything, try taking just a little bit of the tension out of your chain and using a wet lube instead (but don't overdo it or you'll have a real mess). Most wax-type lubes are designed to dry up and flake off - taking dirt and crud along with it - but need to be reapplied way too often for my liking.
    Last edited by Scrodzilla; 10-02-11 at 11:05 AM.

  9. #284
    Brown Bear, Sqrl Hunter Jaytron's Avatar
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    Speaking of chain lube, how often should the chain be lubed? (Both wet and dry)

  10. #285
    Magnets, how do they work solipsist716's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scrodzilla View Post
    Rollins and MacKaye however...
    You leave Henry out of this.
    Quote Originally Posted by cianm View Post
    How do i tweak my brakes so it will be good for skidding?
    Quote Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver View Post
    As Minchin said, praying before a sporting event and winning does not mean that god took time out from torturing and killing babies in Africa to ensure your team's win.

  11. #286
    Veteran Bastard Scrodzilla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaytron View Post
    Speaking of chain lube, how often should the chain be lubed? (Both wet and dry)
    There's no actual answer to this, as there are too many variables. It really depends on how much you ride and how often you clean your chain. Your chain should never be dry or caked with gunk.

  12. #287
    モㄥ工匕モ 爪モ爪乃モ尺 evilcryalotmore's Avatar
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    Dear scrod, Whats the easiest and best tire levers? I have pedros right now, Wonder what you use.

  13. #288
    Veteran Bastard Scrodzilla's Avatar
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    I use Pedros as well and have never needed more than one.

  14. #289
    モㄥ工匕モ 爪モ爪乃モ尺 evilcryalotmore's Avatar
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    Hmm thats what im thinking, i love them. Quick question What do you do when you have a tire with a really really stiff bead, Like you really have to wrestle the tire. I always run into trouble with gatorskins. on a good day i dont hurt my self.

  15. #290
    Veteran Bastard Scrodzilla's Avatar
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    To get them on or off? To install a stubborn tire, I use a Kool Stop Bead Jack:


  16. #291
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    Scrod,

    Would you recommend getting a track bike strictly for road/city use? I've seen a thread or two, but I'm seeking more info. I'll use it for 5-10 mile joy rides and possibly commuting on it 10-20 miles. I'm in L.A. and there may be some slight hills.

    I'm currently on a Raleigh One Way (cromo frame) and I'm looking for something a little bit lighter, quicker and faster on the road, but not something where I'll feel every single bump on the road and my back will pay for it later.

    Thinking along the lines of a Leader 725/735, FTP, Jamis Sonik type bike, but I want to be informed about which bikes suit which type of riding. Thanks.

  17. #292
    Veteran Bastard Scrodzilla's Avatar
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    Sure, why not? My 725 has proven to be pretty versatile and is great for both bombing around town and doing long rides, especially now that I've got it weighing under 18lbs. I've done quite a few half-centuries this year and the only real drawback is the lack of bottle bosses but I've got a few detachable ones that do the trick. It's also surprisingly less harsh of a ride than I was expecting. Still not as forgiving as my steel 722, but nice and smooth nonetheless.

    If you go aluminum, you're definitely going to want a carbon fork though. Trust me.

  18. #293
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    Good stuff Scrod, you da man.

    A carbon fork for an alu frame? Is that because of weight, shock absorption, durability or what? I'm new to this so I have no idea.

    Thanks.

  19. #294
    Hi, I'm Bryan. jimmytango's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by solipsist716 View Post
    You leave Henry out of this.
    Black Flag would have been a better band if they left him out...
    I am not the company I keep.

  20. #295
    Painfully average. calv's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigglyPuff View Post
    Good stuff Scrod, you da man.

    A carbon fork for an alu frame? Is that because of weight, shock absorption, durability or what? I'm new to this so I have no idea.

    Thanks.
    If i'm not mistaken, it's because good carbon is lighter, stiffer, and absorbs bumps on the road a LOT better than alu does. or damn, I just might be crazy.
    Quote Originally Posted by ThisJauntyGent View Post
    The stories about the smell are absolutely true: straight elephant dick.
    All City Mr Pink

  21. #296
    Veteran Bastard Scrodzilla's Avatar
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    Calv is right on all counts but the most important reason is vibration dampening. Think of a tuning fork made of aluminum:

    designed to resonate a note and ring for a pretty long time. If you were to make a tuning fork out of carbon, it would just "clunk" when you hit it and have very little vibration and as a result, no resonating sound. Now translate that same thing to a bike fork.

  22. #297
    Veteran Bastard Scrodzilla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimmytango View Post
    Black Flag would have been a better band if they left him out...
    Or kicked him out after Damaged.

  23. #298
    i'll probably break it 91MF's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scrodzilla View Post
    Calv is right on all counts but the most important reason is vibration dampening. Think of a tuning fork made of aluminum:

    designed to resonate a note and ring for a pretty long time. If you were to make a tuning fork out of carbon, it would just "clunk" when you hit it and have very little vibration and as a result, no resonating sound. Now translate that same thing to a bike fork.

    i think this is only true to a degree. while its true a aluminum fork will 'sing' over bumps --aluminum frames do too-- i think if the fork is shaped right* the vibrations can be moderated. my 1990 cdale is all aluminum frame/fork and is really comfortable. the fork barely 'sings' over the worst terrains.

    *i cannot tell you what 'shape' is right, im no engineer. i'd imagine not much effort is put into building a smooth aluminum fork nowadays when a carbon fork could be had.
    bike. throw. #MFDCR

  24. #299
    Veteran Bastard Scrodzilla's Avatar
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    Okay...take a what's considered a nice aluminum fork, hold it in your hand and gently hit it with the end of a screwdriver. It will resonate a sound. Now do it with a carbon fork.

    I'm no engineer either but I know what will happen.

  25. #300
    Old fart JohnDThompson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scrodzilla View Post
    Okay...take a what's considered a nice aluminum fork, hold it in your hand and gently hit it with the end of a screwdriver. It will resonate a sound. Now do it with a carbon fork.

    I'm no engineer either but I know what will happen.
    I'm not sure that is a realistic test.

    Try the same thing, but with a wheel installed in each fork.

    Not much resonance from either, right?

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