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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

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Old 07-23-12, 03:03 AM   #4701
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well you guys must have a lot of padding on your arses. i can ride my toupe forever with bibs without discomfort, but after 5-10 miles without bibs it kills me.
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Old 07-23-12, 06:50 AM   #4702
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scrod,

is the 722 RS still being made?

do they have the same geometry as the TS?
Cog House has a bunch of them up on eBay but I don't think they are still being made. Not sure about the geo.
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Old 07-23-12, 08:12 AM   #4703
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Ill have to check that out

Do you think leader would give me a geo chart if i mailed them? Or are they tight lipped with that kinda thing unless youre a dealer
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Old 07-23-12, 08:14 AM   #4704
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I talk to them every day. I'll see if I can get the chart for you.
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Old 07-23-12, 08:16 AM   #4705
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<3
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Old 07-23-12, 09:22 AM   #4706
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I already asked this question in another thread, but I figure if anyone knows - it would be you.

How do you pronounce Nitto? (neato? or nitto?)
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Old 07-23-12, 09:29 AM   #4707
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Most commonly, nee-toh. We may need to get someone Japanese up in here but I believe the proper pronunciation is closer to nit-tou.

I try to say it aloud as little as possible.
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Old 07-23-12, 11:12 AM   #4708
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Most commonly, nee-toh. We may need to get someone Japanese up in here but I believe the proper pronunciation is closer to nit-tou.

I try to say it aloud as little as possible.
Hahahaha. I'll ask my wife. Nitto is easy though, compared to other words. When Nagano had the olympics, it was bad. Real bad. It was either NAgano or NaGAno. Japanese pronunciation is difficult, they don't emphasize syllables as much as English. My wife advised me to sound as neutral as possible when speaking.
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Old 07-23-12, 11:35 AM   #4709
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It's best to say it with an aggitated tone, and a bit of a rising growl, in a karate stance whenever possible. Preferrably while breaking a brick on the "toh", like so...
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Old 07-23-12, 11:38 AM   #4710
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from my forays trying to learn japanese, which "syllable" is emphasized is everything

2 words will be "spelled" exactly the same but you pronounce one letter different and youre talking about couches instead of jumping or something
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Old 07-23-12, 11:49 AM   #4711
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Scrod: Have you put together a list of go-to parts, components, bikes, et al? I saw on your pedalroom that you said something about a certain chain, how you would not buy any other chain. I think it would be a good resource to have a few lists of what you think are the best things out there right now... actually, three lists, like a budget list, a main-line list, and a top of the line list. I imagine that some items may be the same across lists because some budget items are the best you can get, but whatever.

I know it could be a pain to maintain as products come and go, but it could be helpful and if you linked to products you might find a way to monetize it (assuming you link to some products that you do not sell).
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Old 07-23-12, 11:50 AM   #4712
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Since Japanese has pitch-accent rather than stress-accent none of these various spellings/boldings are likely to capture the actual native pronunciation, which is part of the source of confusion. I believe that the high front vowel is always tense /i/ and so "neato" is probably closer to it. As the accent is lexical and not represented by the spelling, we would need a native Japanese speaker to say whether Nitto has an accent or not.

/notscrod
/too many years as fricking linguist even though I don't really know phonology

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Old 07-23-12, 09:09 PM   #4713
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Sort of a carry-over from my question in RG - I did a spoke length calc. for an A23/chub road front build (24 hole, 3-cross) and it told me I need a 302.5mm spoke length. Sapim and Wheelsmith DB14's top off at 302. Am I just derping or should I rethink my build? Not dead-set on 24h but I'm a relatively light, small guy (5'6/150lbs) but also not bummed on the idea of likely having to retrue more than a 32h.
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Old 07-23-12, 09:39 PM   #4714
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Is there any videos or pic tutorials on how to setup a brake lever? I just ordered some Cane Creek 200TT's and would not mind trying to put them on myself when they get here.

Last edited by Scrodzilla; 07-23-12 at 10:35 PM. Reason: oops
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Old 07-23-12, 10:34 PM   #4715
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Sort of a carry-over from my question in RG - I did a spoke length calc. for an A23/chub road front build (24 hole, 3-cross) and it told me I need a 302.5mm spoke length. Sapim and Wheelsmith DB14's top off at 302. Am I just derping or should I rethink my build? Not dead-set on 24h but I'm a relatively light, small guy (5'6/150lbs) but also not bummed on the idea of likely having to retrue more than a 32h.
You'll be fine using 302mm spokes.
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Old 07-23-12, 10:36 PM   #4716
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Is there any videos or pic tutorials on how to setup a brake lever? I just ordered some Cane Creek 200TT's and would not mind trying to put them on myself when they get here.
They'll most likely come with an instruction sheet.
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Old 07-23-12, 10:41 PM   #4717
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Scrod: Have you put together a list of go-to parts, components, bikes, et al? I saw on your pedalroom that you said something about a certain chain, how you would not buy any other chain. I think it would be a good resource to have a few lists of what you think are the best things out there right now... actually, three lists, like a budget list, a main-line list, and a top of the line list. I imagine that some items may be the same across lists because some budget items are the best you can get, but whatever.

I know it could be a pain to maintain as products come and go, but it could be helpful and if you linked to products you might find a way to monetize it (assuming you link to some products that you do not sell).
I definitely have a few "go-to" parts that I always use and recommend (which is mainly why we recently teamed up with Ben's Cycle to sell their Protype BB for Sugino 75s). Making an actual list would be difficult though because a lot of stuff comes down to personal preference. The KMC K710-SL chain, for example, has proven itself and I'll most likely use that chain forever but I'm sure there are people out there who will say it's crap. On the other side of the coin, Phil Wood cogs - for all intents and purposes - should be top notch but I think they are garbage compared to standard EAI cogs.
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Old 07-24-12, 02:50 PM   #4718
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Scrod,

Have you noticed that the seatpost clamps on the blue EAI BK frames like yours look different than some of the others I have found on Pedalroom. Did they change it just for that particular color or are they changed in general?
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Old 07-24-12, 03:40 PM   #4719
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Hi Scrod,

I've been fond of my Durano Plus 25's, but might pick up a second pair of slightly wider and lightly treaded tires that would be almost as good on pavement, but also give me increased flexibility to ride unpaved/off-road paths more often. The Durano's ain't too comfortable in those situations, and I'm avoiding a lot of good paths nearby. I'm looking at the Panaracer Pasela TG's. I wouldn't get rid of the Duranos, but probably swap out every once in a while to mix things up. Not looking for anything as aggressive as cross tires...just some more width, comfort and slight tread while remaining very puncture-resistant.

I see from Pedal Room that you've actually used both of these tires. Any thoughts on how the Panaracer and the Durano Plus subjectively feel as far as ride quality, rolling resistance, stability, etc.? Do the Panaracers feel less out of place on non-paved surfaces? I know it's hard to compare, so just any personal thoughts are appreciated.

PS: I've read that the Panaracer 28's run a bit small. Do you know if the 32's are also small? 32 might be a bit big for my clearance, but if they are effectively smaller, I might consider them...

Last edited by Face Palm; 07-24-12 at 03:41 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 07-24-12, 04:13 PM   #4720
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I know this may be more than you asked for but I'm going into full detail just in case anyone else may be wondering too:

To use a 1 1/8" stem on a 1" steerer you will need a 1" to 1 1/8" shim and a 1 1/8" top cap. If you plan on using a spacer on top of the stem, that needs to be 1 1/8" as well. Any spacers below the stem must be 1".
So... I have more questions...haha...

Do I cut the spacer to match the height of my stem? (It's a little bit taller.)
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Old 07-24-12, 04:30 PM   #4721
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So... I have more questions...haha...

Do I cut the spacer to match the height of my stem? (It's a little bit taller.)
Assuming you mean the shim, using a small (2.5mm) 1 1/8" spacer above the stem will solve your problem.
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Old 07-24-12, 04:33 PM   #4722
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Hi Scrod,

I've been fond of my Durano Plus 25's, but might pick up a second pair of slightly wider and lightly treaded tires that would be almost as good on pavement, but also give me increased flexibility to ride unpaved/off-road paths more often. The Durano's ain't too comfortable in those situations, and I'm avoiding a lot of good paths nearby. I'm looking at the Panaracer Pasela TG's. I wouldn't get rid of the Duranos, but probably swap out every once in a while to mix things up. Not looking for anything as aggressive as cross tires...just some more width, comfort and slight tread while remaining very puncture-resistant.

I see from Pedal Room that you've actually used both of these tires. Any thoughts on how the Panaracer and the Durano Plus subjectively feel as far as ride quality, rolling resistance, stability, etc.? Do the Panaracers feel less out of place on non-paved surfaces? I know it's hard to compare, so just any personal thoughts are appreciated.

PS: I've read that the Panaracer 28's run a bit small. Do you know if the 32's are also small? 32 might be a bit big for my clearance, but if they are effectively smaller, I might consider them...
Pasela TGs are awesome on hard-packed gravel and such and they have great rolling resistance if you keep them inflated a little over the recommended PSI. I love them. The TGs do run a little small, though.
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Old 07-24-12, 04:38 PM   #4723
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So... I have more questions...haha...

Do I cut the spacer to match the height of my stem? (It's a little bit taller.)
Don't have to cut the shim (I presume by spacer you mean shim) if you're using a 1 1/8" spacer and 1 1/8" top cap above the stem.

E: that'll teach me to reply to a stale thread without refreshing it first.
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Old 07-24-12, 04:47 PM   #4724
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Pasela TGs are awesome on hard-packed gravel and such and they have great rolling resistance if you keep them inflated a little over the recommended PSI. I love them. The TGs do run a little small, though.
Thanks!
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Old 07-24-12, 08:53 PM   #4725
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Assuming you mean the shim, using a small (2.5mm) 1 1/8" spacer above the stem will solve your problem.
Yes, I did. Okay, sounds good sir.
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