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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

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Old 05-21-14, 04:04 PM   #8601
bmontgomery87
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Thanks squidpuppet. Kind of worried now. I wasn't expecting great quality though. I picked up a wu tang edition for around 300. Just wanted a cheaper steel bike to grab beers on and learn a few tricks. I dont like slamming down failed wheelies on my carbon fork.

Hopefully they've gotten a bit better. Or was your experience recent?
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Old 05-21-14, 04:17 PM   #8602
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I picked up a wu tang edition
Oof.
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Old 05-21-14, 04:33 PM   #8603
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Oof.
Its tacky as hell. I wanted something I could cover in stickers and lock up downtown and not worry about it much.
Thinking about a basket and risers to just have an ugly ride that carries beer.

Ive got my 721 to commute daily with
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Old 05-21-14, 05:01 PM   #8604
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Thanks squidpuppet. Kind of worried now. I wasn't expecting great quality though. I picked up a wu tang edition for around 300. Just wanted a cheaper steel bike to grab beers on and learn a few tricks. I dont like slamming down failed wheelies on my carbon fork.

Hopefully they've gotten a bit better. Or was your experience recent?
A wheelie brother.

I went through that ordeal last fall. I'tll be perfectly fine for what you bought it for.
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Old 05-21-14, 05:12 PM   #8605
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Its tacky as hell. I wanted something I could cover in stickers
That'll help hold the paint on.
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Old 05-21-14, 09:34 PM   #8606
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i'll offer what i know from first hand experience with a number of their frames. None of which were satisfactory.

1. Actual incomplete welds. Ugly to boot.
2. Crooked to the point of visible with naked eye. Bottom bracket 5mm off center to seat tube. Track ends welded in visibly not paralel to one another/tilted causing extreme wheel misalignment. Chain stays leaving the bottom bracket at different vertical angles. Braze ons for racks an bottles severely misaligned.
3. Paint adhesion is the poorest most brittle i've experienced. Large drips and runs in paint.
4. Head tube not aligned with seat tube.
5. They flex like a four day over ripe banana in a tub of hot water.

I must be fair though, and acknowledge that their customer service was utter five star excellence. No questions asked and free replacements shipped same day. This process was repeated with great courtesy and speed by state numerous times, until i finally gave up.
Thank you sir!!!
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Old 05-21-14, 10:11 PM   #8607
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So over a year ago I purchased a 2013 Fuji Feather, I have been riding it non stop and feel that a little upgrading is finally in order. After doing some research it seems like the upgrades most noticeable and beneficial would be too the crankset/chain/cog and the wheelset. I use my bike mainly as a commuter and also as a part time courier, so I'm looking for parts that will stand up to city streets and potholes and not be too flashy as my bike is often locked up outside. Also I'm looking for something that wont be totally out of place if along the road I decide to upgrade frames. For the crank I was looking at something along the lines of the Sram s300, and for wheelset Velocity Deep Vs with Formula hubs. Now my question is, are these parts really going to be a significant upgrade to my current stock wheelset (read somewhere online that the stock rims are comparable to deep v's, no idea if this is true) and cranks or should I hold out and save up for some Phil Wood hubs or something, also I have no brand loyalty and am open for any suggestions for wheelset and crankset combo, I just dont wanna throw all this money down for a marginal performance upgrade and increased theft potential, Thanks Guys!
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Old 05-22-14, 08:55 AM   #8608
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I don't feel this is a question specifically for me.

I can't realistically tell you which parts will you will find to be the the most substantial "upgrade". My suggestion is to hang out on the forum for a while and do some research.
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Old 05-22-14, 06:02 PM   #8609
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I was wondering if you would give your blessings or have ever seen a bike with dutch style handlebars (i want to get a pair similar to those on your fuji townie) running brifters facing down in line with the bars. I am poor and don't want to get new levers/shifters. Thank you S!
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Old 05-22-14, 06:15 PM   #8610
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Sounds like a pretty odd setup.

FWIW, the Nitto B302s aren't like a Dutch handlebar at all. You're better off looking at the Nitto B602 or the Velo Orange Montmartre if you want that classic Dutch look.
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Old 05-23-14, 06:37 AM   #8611
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Dear Almighty Scrod, I need your opinion. I'm converting my Pista's threaded quill stem to threadless (using a simple 1"-1 1/8" converter). I'm going to get a 38.1 stem since that seems like the best when it comes to handlebar options. I'd love to get a nice pair of track drops, but with my current road bars I almost never ride with my hands in the drops. I just feel super unstable. On the other hand I was thinking of getting riser bars like the Cinelli Peppers. I know I'd feel more stable and city handling would be a lot better.

So my question is, do I get the bars that I know will feel more comfortable or do I get the track drops and just suck it up and get better riding with my hands in the drops, since I should probably learn to do that and stop being a ****ing poser. Side note: New bars and stem will all be ordered from Retrogression.

Thanks, dude. And don't hesitate to mock me. I haven't yet received a proper Scrodding on the forum yet.
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Old 05-23-14, 08:39 AM   #8612
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I'm confused. Why would you even consider track drops if you never use the drop portion on the bars you already have? Track drops absolutely suck on the street.
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Old 05-23-14, 09:02 AM   #8613
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getting track drops when you cant ride with the drops you already have wont help you do anything but be a poser
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Old 05-23-14, 09:06 AM   #8614
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get track drops, then flip 'em upside down, bum style
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Old 05-23-14, 09:14 AM   #8615
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is a bigger drivetrain louder, smoother, or more durable than a smaller one, regardless of gear inches?
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Old 05-23-14, 09:17 AM   #8616
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Why are you so hung up on the volume level of your drivetrain? There are so many variables in what creates drivetrain noise. You could have the same exact chain/cog/chainring setup on two different frames and one could end up being louder than the other. Just ride your bike.

As a rule, bigger gears are smoother and will result in less wear.
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Old 05-23-14, 09:27 AM   #8617
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Ah man, don't play the "just ride your bike" card. I ride my bike constantly.

I'm about to switch up my drive train pretty significantly (literally completely) and I want to know as much as I can. I'm not worried about noise as much as I ask about it. Thanks for the info on wear & tear and smoothness.
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Old 05-23-14, 10:23 AM   #8618
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I'm confused. Why would you even consider track drops if you never use the drop portion on the bars you already have? Track drops absolutely suck on the street.
I was just thinking I should learn to be better at using the drop portion. But you're right. Risers it is. I appreciate the advice. What size levers fit the Cinelli Peppers? I assume assume one of the Tektro RL models will work? Thanks again.
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Old 05-23-14, 10:25 AM   #8619
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getting track drops when you cant ride with the drops you already have wont help you do anything but be a poser
I have to get new bars anyway since I'm switching up the stem and it'll be a different size. I like the way track bars look and I figured I should learn to handle the bike in the drops. But I get what you're saying. And with Scrod saying track bars suck on the street, the decision is easy.
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Old 05-29-14, 10:40 PM   #8620
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Have you ever heard of Alphalab? My friend has their frame and swears by it. What do you think of them?
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Old 05-29-14, 11:14 PM   #8621
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Do you know of a brake lever than will fit on the taper of my drop bars between the 31.8mm and 23.8mm sections, favoring the 31.88 side? Also, are you on instagram and if so can I follow you? Thanckx
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Old 05-29-14, 11:24 PM   #8622
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Do you know of a brake lever than will fit on the taper of my drop bars between the 31.8mm and 23.8mm sections, favoring the 31.88 side? Also, are you on instagram and if so can I follow you? Thanckx
You'll need either a 24mm clamp or a 31.8 up near the stem. There's not really anything that will work in-between.

The shop's instagram is @retro_gression
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Old 05-29-14, 11:26 PM   #8623
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Have you ever heard of Alphalab? My friend has their frame and swears by it. What do you think of them?
Never heard of them. Looks like typical Jakarta stuff to me.
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Old 05-29-14, 11:36 PM   #8624
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Do you take your EAI Bare Knuckle to the velodrome often? Nice build!
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Old 05-31-14, 01:18 AM   #8625
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Hey Scrod,

Sorry if you've answered these types of questions a million time. Thought I'd bug you with more.. haha

Anyways, I'm in the process of building my Leader 725 and I'm planning on getting SRAM Omniums. I'm just deciding on which size would be optimal for me.. I've searched around a bit and used an online calculator and found that with my inseam: 32", it would be good to get a 167.5mm crank length? I've also found that for my size its okay to go with the 170mm. Could you chime in on this? I have a 55cm bike frame. Thanks again in advance.
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