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Thread: Ask Scrod

  1. #126
    hamcycles.com hamfoh's Avatar
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    s300?
    Bikes - past and present

  2. #127
    Blaster of Reality Scrodzilla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimmytango View Post
    I need a new crankset/bb. I'm looking for low maintenance but with pretty high durability, cuz at 6'5"/210lbs. I'm not a small guy. I'd like crankarms that are around 172.5 cuz that's what I have and they're comfortable. Pretty sure I have a 62mm shell. Here's the kicker, seeing as I'm gonna be buying the tools to do the swap myself, I'm not gonna have a ton of cash to throw around, so no om-nom-noms and no 75s, even though I really want the 75s. This will be the first non-factory part on the bike, so it's kind of a big deal that I get something decent. Currently rockin FSA Vero. Aesthetics aren't super important, but given the option I want black.

    Lay it on me, brah.
    FSA Veros (the older ones) aren't too bad of a crank. Why do yours need to be replaced and how much are you looking to spend?

    You most likely have a 68mm shell.

  3. #128
    Hi, I'm Bryan. jimmytango's Avatar
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    I kind of assumed that coming on a Lager they would be average and that's it, but you know more about this **** than I do. I measured this morning, and it is 68mm. Mine creak (threads need greased), flex a lot (I'm a big dude with strong legs), and vibrate. Like, through the pedals on smooth road I can feel vibrations. Also, sometimes when I go to skid or even just pedal hard it clicks really loud and feels like it skips a link. I threw on a new cog, chain, and chainring to eliminate them as causes, but it still does it once every 20 miles or so. Therefore, I've reasoned out that I need a new bb and/or crankset. I was gonna say I could spend up to $100, but I am unemployed as of today, so I'm not sure.

    Also, Beatles or Rolling Stones?
    I am not the company I keep.

  4. #129
    Elitist carleton's Avatar
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    Most Excellent Marquis de Scrod,

    I'm in search of some strong deep and relatively narrow bullhorn bars for racing. Are the Euro Asia Imports steel Nitto RB-021s my only option? I have them in size 40, but would like some 38s.

    What bars are these?:


    I found them while snooping around on hamfoh's blog: http://mybikes.tumblr.com/post/9510207825

  5. #130
    Enson andrizzle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by carleton View Post
    wow. what a great blog. where have i been
    Quote Originally Posted by seau grateau View Post
    A picture, or even a vague description, would help.
    bangarang

  6. #131
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    Quote Originally Posted by carleton View Post
    Most Excellent Marquis de Scrod,

    I'm in search of some strong deep and relatively narrow bullhorn bars for racing. Are the Euro Asia Imports steel Nitto RB-021s my only option? I have them in size 40, but would like some 38s.

    What bars are these?:


    I found them while snooping around on hamfoh's blog: http://mybikes.tumblr.com/post/9510207825
    Relative track racing newb here, but what races are you using bullhorns for? Mounting aero-bars for pursuits? I wasn't aware anything but drops were legal for mass-start events. Now I'm curious.

    Also, I think the RB-021s are made in 38cm in the alloy version, but not being heat treated, I think they might be too flexy for you. I guess since you've got that much less leverage with a narrower bar, maybe the flex issues wouldn't be as bad with the alloy version? Who knows?

    http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...&category=2657

    May look goofy (but who really cares if you're faster in a race) but flat bullhorns like the RB-018's in a 38cm (heat treated alloy) and a -25 degree stem might be okay.

  7. #132
    Elitist carleton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FKMTB07 View Post
    Relative track racing newb here, but what races are you using bullhorns for? Mounting aero-bars for pursuits? I wasn't aware anything but drops were legal for mass-start events. Now I'm curious.

    Also, I think the RB-021s are made in 38cm in the alloy version, but not being heat treated, I think they might be too flexy for you. I guess since you've got that much less leverage with a narrower bar, maybe the flex issues wouldn't be as bad with the alloy version? Who knows?

    http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...&category=2657

    May look goofy (but who really cares if you're faster in a race) but flat bullhorns like the RB-018's in a 38cm (heat treated alloy) and a -25 degree stem might be okay.
    Any standing time trial (500M, 1K, 2K, 3K, 4K) can be ridden with drop bars, aero bars, or bullhorn bars. For example:



    The flat bullhorns are an option, too. Especially if I'm not adding arm rests.

  8. #133
    pro in someone's theory prooftheory's Avatar
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    That is the first time I've seen an adjustable stem position that I liked.

  9. #134
    Blaster of Reality Scrodzilla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimmytango View Post
    Also, Beatles or Rolling Stones?
    Neither. **** both of those wildly overrated bands.

    carleton - I have no idea what bars those are.

    I've got a set of 40cm (measured outside to outside) Deda CronoNERO Lowriders - wrapped in pink LizardSkins, no less - that I've been thinking of selling. They're not steel but they're deep, stiff as hell and have aero tops. They're a 31.8 clamp though.

  10. #135
    Senior Member redpear's Avatar
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    Scrod,

    I've got a big question about handlebars. In the past I know you've loved different handlebars, particularly risers and now compact drops.

    Regarding risers, I've heard a few things:

    1. Rearward sweep is good until you chop them down to shoulder width. Then they are not comfortable.
    I have only one pair of risers chopped to shoulder width and they don't have a tremendous amount of sweep. To me, it feels like a bit more sweep would actually feel a bit more ergonomic.

    2. Upward sweep is also good.
    I have no experience with this.

    What kind of risers do you like in terms of upward sweep, rearward sweep, and rise?

  11. #136
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    carleton try profile airwings? although i think they only come in 40 wide and don't go into the 30's.

    or it would be sweet to find some old mavic pursuit bars
    Quote Originally Posted by 91MF View Post

    i guess if you were really bored and high you might build something like this. i would choose masturbating. or eating doritos.
    http://www.pedalroom.com/member/calvintodd

  12. #137
    Hi, I'm Bryan. jimmytango's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scrodzilla View Post
    Neither. **** both of those wildly overrated bands.
    Pretty close to my sentiments, though I do prefer the Stones. Respectable answer.
    I am not the company I keep.

  13. #138
    Brown Bear, Sqrl Hunter Jaytron's Avatar
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    Scrod,

    I have a (probably stupid) question regarding my Kilo TT.

    I googled and figured out how to measure stem length (I think I currently have a 90mm) and I want a longer stem, 110mm or 120mm. I have no idea how to figure out the sizing for the bars or if that even matters? I know that I'll need a 1" stem for the steerer tube, but that's about it.

  14. #139
    Hi, I'm Bryan. jimmytango's Avatar
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    I'll just say it before Adriano pipes in, 130mm or nothing.
    I am not the company I keep.

  15. #140
    Blaster of Reality Scrodzilla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by redpear View Post
    Scrod,

    I've got a big question about handlebars. In the past I know you've loved different handlebars, particularly risers and now compact drops.

    Regarding risers, I've heard a few things:

    1. Rearward sweep is good until you chop them down to shoulder width. Then they are not comfortable.
    I have only one pair of risers chopped to shoulder width and they don't have a tremendous amount of sweep. To me, it feels like a bit more sweep would actually feel a bit more ergonomic.

    2. Upward sweep is also good.
    I have no experience with this.

    What kind of risers do you like in terms of upward sweep, rearward sweep, and rise?
    Back sweep is definitely a good thing regardless of how wide your bars are. My Nittos have a pretty good amount. Angie has a set of Leader risers on her 722 that have a little less sweep that she loves but they feel a little uncomfortable to me. Dimension makes an inexpensive riser bar in various heights that have 15 sweep that feel really nice (be careful if you're buying them online though because Dimension also makes a 24 sweep model). As for rise, I happen to like around 2.5".

    Regarding upsweep, I would think that would put your arms in a very unnatural position and have bad effects on your wrists and elbows after a while. If anything, slight down sweep would be more ergonomic - but I don't think I've ever seen any risers that sweep downward.

  16. #141
    Blaster of Reality Scrodzilla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaytron View Post
    Scrod,

    I have a (probably stupid) question regarding my Kilo TT.

    I googled and figured out how to measure stem length (I think I currently have a 90mm) and I want a longer stem, 110mm or 120mm. I have no idea how to figure out the sizing for the bars or if that even matters? I know that I'll need a 1" stem for the steerer tube, but that's about it.
    You're not going to find a good 1" stem so yeah, you'll need a 1 1/8" stem with a shim. No biggie. If you're still using the stock bars, they're 26mm.

  17. #142
    Brown Bear, Sqrl Hunter Jaytron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scrodzilla View Post
    You're not going to find a good 1" stem so yeah, you'll need a 1 1/8" stem with a shim. No biggie. If you're still using the stock bars, they're 26mm.
    Thanks Scrod! A shim doesn't make it any less "safe" does it? One more question, what degree stem do I need to have it flat when flipped? If it's not too much, how is that calculated in relation to the head tube angle of 73?

  18. #143
    Blaster of Reality Scrodzilla's Avatar
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    It's perfectly fine to use a shim. You'll want a +/-17 stem to have it parallel to the top tube. Keep in mind this will also slightly increase the reach.

  19. #144
    Brown Bear, Sqrl Hunter Jaytron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scrodzilla View Post
    It's perfectly fine to use a shim. You'll want a +/-17 stem to have it parallel to the top tube. Keep in mind this will also slightly increase the reach.
    I have the stem flipped now it seems pretty flat (or close to it).

    How is the number 17 calculated? Just 90-73=17?

  20. #145
    Elitist carleton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scrodzilla View Post
    It's perfectly fine to use a shim. You'll want a +/-17 stem to have it parallel to the top tube. Keep in mind this will also slightly increase the reach.
    +1

    I've used shims on the track during my most [boston accent] wickid haaad [/accent] standing starts and they don't budge. It's a safe solution.

  21. #146
    Blaster of Reality Scrodzilla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaytron View Post
    How is the number 17 calculated? Just 90-73=17?
    Ju got it mang.

  22. #147
    Brown Bear, Sqrl Hunter Jaytron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by carleton View Post
    +1

    I've used shims on the track during my most [boston accent] wickid haaad [/accent] standing starts and they don't budge. It's a safe solution.


    Quote Originally Posted by Scrodzilla View Post
    Ju got it mang.
    Thanks both of you!

    Fact: I've learned more about bikes in the few months I've been riding SS, than I knew from months of being a roadie, thanks to you guys and everyone else in this section of BF. Thanks everyone

  23. #148
    Hi, I'm Bryan. jimmytango's Avatar
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    Yeah, people here are great if you make it through the subtle hazing.
    I am not the company I keep.

  24. #149
    yoked homebrewk's Avatar
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    Dear Scrod,

    After taking off some of the stickers on my Shimano RS10 rims on the Cannondale there is some sticky stuff left. You can't really see it but I want it to go bye-bye. I could just Google it but it is a rim so I don't want to **** it up. I figured you would know the correct (and safe) way to do it.

  25. #150
    Blaster of Reality Scrodzilla's Avatar
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    Spray some WD40 on it and let it sit for a few minutes to soften the adhesive. Spray a little more on a rag and it should rub off fairly easily.

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