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#9126
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Thank you very kindly.
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Is it normal when adjusting chain tension to have spots that are tighter and/or looser than others? Or does this mean something (chainring or cog) are out of round?
#9128
Your cog is slipping.
Thread Starter
Usually. You can try centering the chainring but it's very uncommon for everything but really high-end chainring to be slightly less than round.
Centering a Chainring | Velowood Cyclery
Centering a Chainring | Velowood Cyclery
#9129
:)
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Scrod, have you ever worked with a white industries eccentric hub? I'm trying to decide what to do with the extra caad frame I have.
Thanks.
Thanks.
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Evening Sir Scrod,
I'm riding a pake with one of your straight blade forks through the streets of Chicago and love the twitch and handling for getting between and around cars. On part of my commute I have a pretty fast downhill section that I'd like to skid slow down on and even throw the tail out a little but I'm a little nervous to get too far up on my handlebars do to the sensitivity of the bike and given the speeds involved. I'm using some bullhorns right now. Can you recommend another bar setup that would allow me to get more on top of the bike safely and where my brake should be just in case ha.
I'm riding a pake with one of your straight blade forks through the streets of Chicago and love the twitch and handling for getting between and around cars. On part of my commute I have a pretty fast downhill section that I'd like to skid slow down on and even throw the tail out a little but I'm a little nervous to get too far up on my handlebars do to the sensitivity of the bike and given the speeds involved. I'm using some bullhorns right now. Can you recommend another bar setup that would allow me to get more on top of the bike safely and where my brake should be just in case ha.
#9135
Your cog is slipping.
Thread Starter
Why not just use a different hand position? You don't need to be busting high-speed skids with your hands way out on the horns.
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Scrod,
I plan on building some new wheels with Phil hubs and a White Industries freewheel. If I pair these with a Sugino 75 crank, do I need to compensate for the difference in chainline due to the freewheel?
SheldonBrown.com says that Phil's plus a EAI cog results in a 43.48mm chainline whereas a Phil's plus a White Industries freewheel results in a 45.48 chainline. Would I want to use a 111mm BB instead of the recommended 109mm? Thanks in advance.
I plan on building some new wheels with Phil hubs and a White Industries freewheel. If I pair these with a Sugino 75 crank, do I need to compensate for the difference in chainline due to the freewheel?
SheldonBrown.com says that Phil's plus a EAI cog results in a 43.48mm chainline whereas a Phil's plus a White Industries freewheel results in a 45.48 chainline. Would I want to use a 111mm BB instead of the recommended 109mm? Thanks in advance.
#9142
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Evening Sir Scrod,
I'm riding a pake with one of your straight blade forks through the streets of Chicago and love the twitch and handling for getting between and around cars. On part of my commute I have a pretty fast downhill section that I'd like to skid slow down on and even throw the tail out a little but I'm a little nervous to get too far up on my handlebars do to the sensitivity of the bike and given the speeds involved. I'm using some bullhorns right now. Can you recommend another bar setup that would allow me to get more on top of the bike safely and where my brake should be just in case ha.
I'm riding a pake with one of your straight blade forks through the streets of Chicago and love the twitch and handling for getting between and around cars. On part of my commute I have a pretty fast downhill section that I'd like to skid slow down on and even throw the tail out a little but I'm a little nervous to get too far up on my handlebars do to the sensitivity of the bike and given the speeds involved. I'm using some bullhorns right now. Can you recommend another bar setup that would allow me to get more on top of the bike safely and where my brake should be just in case ha.
#9145
Your cog is slipping.
Thread Starter
No prob!
To complicate matters even further (though not really), you can safely use an ISO crankset on a JIS spindle too, which results in a 2-3mm width increase on each side. Example, using a 107mm JIS spindle with a crankset requiring a 109mm ISO spindle would result in what would seem like having a 111-113mm spindle. Oh, physics...
See here.
To complicate matters even further (though not really), you can safely use an ISO crankset on a JIS spindle too, which results in a 2-3mm width increase on each side. Example, using a 107mm JIS spindle with a crankset requiring a 109mm ISO spindle would result in what would seem like having a 111-113mm spindle. Oh, physics...
See here.
Last edited by Scrodzilla; 11-06-14 at 01:01 PM.
#9146
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To complicate matters even further (though not really), you can safely use an ISO crankset on a JIS spindle too, which result in a 2-3mm width increase on each side. Example, using a 107mm JIS spindle with a crankset requiring a 109mm ISO spindle would result in what would seem like having a 111-113mm spindle. Oh, physics...
See here.
See here.
Im glad you posted this. I've been trying to find a cartridge BB 68x112 for my Campy Stradas, and haven't found too much. That opens up alot more possibilities.
#9147
Your cog is slipping.
Thread Starter
A 111mm ISO won't work? You should be able to use a 107mm JIS spindle and get similar results.
edit: However, a Strada crank I recently put on a customer's bike needed a 115mm ISO spindle to get a good chainline and clear the chainstay (set up with a single chainring).
edit: However, a Strada crank I recently put on a customer's bike needed a 115mm ISO spindle to get a good chainline and clear the chainstay (set up with a single chainring).
Last edited by Scrodzilla; 11-06-14 at 01:19 PM.
#9148
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A 111mm ISO won't work? You should be able to use a 107mm JIS spindle and get similar results.
edit: However, a Strada crank I recently put on a customer's bike needed a 115mm ISO spindle to get a good chainline and clear the chainstay (set up with a single chainring).
edit: However, a Strada crank I recently put on a customer's bike needed a 115mm ISO spindle to get a good chainline and clear the chainstay (set up with a single chainring).
Ugh, i hate "howevers". haha
So yer sayin i probably need the same, a 115 ISO? I found the spec for the BB online Here:
https://velobase.com/ViewComponent.as...f-190893afb431
Last edited by T13; 11-06-14 at 02:51 PM.
#9149
Your cog is slipping.
Thread Starter
Yes sir. When the dude came in with that crank, I immediately thought 111mm ISO but there were clearance issues way before I even tightened the crank arm bolts down. I highly doubt that .5mm on each side would be enough.
We've got 115mm Campy Veloce BBs in stock for the same price as the 111mm on our site. Give me a holler if you need one.
We've got 115mm Campy Veloce BBs in stock for the same price as the 111mm on our site. Give me a holler if you need one.
Last edited by Scrodzilla; 11-06-14 at 03:51 PM.
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Yes sir. When the dude came in with that crank, I immediately thought 111mm ISO but there were clearance issues way before I even tightened the crank arm bolts down. I highly doubt that .5mm on each side would be enough.
We've got 115mm Campy Veloce BBs in stock for the same price as the 111mm on our site. Give me a holler if you need one.
We've got 115mm Campy Veloce BBs in stock for the same price as the 111mm on our site. Give me a holler if you need one.