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Old 08-13-15, 11:12 AM
  #10176  
Your cog is slipping.
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The Park Tool T-handle wrenches are pretty decent. Aside from occasionally replacing a couple of the smaller ones because they slipped into the abyss of lost tools, I've been using the same set daily for about three years.
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Old 08-17-15, 08:07 AM
  #10177  
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Hey Scrod,

im working on getting back in service an old steel road frame and need a chain tensioner in order to make it a SSCX/rainy day ride.
Is there a particular model or brand i should consider. i have no experience which such tensioners...

Thanks for your help!
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Old 08-17-15, 09:40 AM
  #10178  
Your cog is slipping.
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Problem Solvers makes a really nice two-pulley tensioner that adjusts from side to side to dial in chainline. It retails for around 50 bucks. The Shimano Alfine CT-S500 is also decent (not adjustable though). [h=3][/h]
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Old 08-17-15, 09:52 AM
  #10179  
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You can make them square again by cutting off a few MM

Originally Posted by Mumonkan
got a recommendation for a t handle ball end allen set? i got some from craftsman a couple months ago but since such a merican brand is made in the orient now theyre starting to round off already (not even the ball end)

are the park ones worth the cost?
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Old 08-17-15, 10:26 AM
  #10180  
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I see you recommend tensioners with two pullies. I have done some research and saw a few with only one ( gusset bachelor).

Is there a specific reason behind this
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Old 08-18-15, 07:24 AM
  #10181  
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I've been having an issue with my square taper Campagnolo crankset that the crank bolt on the drive side works it's way loose ever 3-400 miles or so. Is there anything I should be doing to keep it tight in place (threadlocker or something), or do I just need to be vigilant about making sure it's really tight with my hex wrench once a month?
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Old 08-18-15, 08:42 AM
  #10182  
Your cog is slipping.
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Originally Posted by himespau
I've been having an issue with my square taper Campagnolo crankset that the crank bolt on the drive side works it's way loose ever 3-400 miles or so. Is there anything I should be doing to keep it tight in place (threadlocker or something), or do I just need to be vigilant about making sure it's really tight with my hex wrench once a month?
The one on my Raleigh did the same thing. Blue Loctite on the threads fixed it.
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Old 08-18-15, 09:24 AM
  #10183  
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
The one on my Raleigh did the same thing. Blue Loctite on the threads fixed it.
Great, thanks. That won't prevent me from being able to remove the cranks if the rings ever wear out, right?
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Old 08-18-15, 09:57 AM
  #10184  
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Looking for some legit CX tires for the new conversion. I don't need anything fancy. I'm actualy looking for cost effective stuff. Recommendations?
I will be mounting them on Alexrims G6000
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Old 08-18-15, 10:03 AM
  #10185  
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Originally Posted by himespau
Great, thanks. That won't prevent me from being able to remove the cranks if the rings ever wear out, right?
Use blue, not red, and you should be able to remove them no problem. #notscrod

Last edited by rreahard; 08-18-15 at 10:13 AM.
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Old 08-18-15, 11:20 AM
  #10186  
Your cog is slipping.
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Originally Posted by himespau
Great, thanks. That won't prevent me from being able to remove the cranks if the rings ever wear out, right?
Nope! The blue stuff stays tacky but isn't Apocalypse-proof like red or green.
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Old 08-26-15, 10:26 PM
  #10187  
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Scrod what's your take on the fluted andel cranks
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Old 08-29-15, 02:04 AM
  #10188  
Goes to 11.
 
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Scrod,

Have you ever paid for it?
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Old 09-02-15, 04:15 AM
  #10189  
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Hello Scrod/Everyone,

Buddy of mine is looking to build up a $500ish frame and wanted my help. I've been out of the loop (last time I was active here, iro was having a hub sale) and unfamiliar with a lot of what is on the market at the moment.

Anyways he was originally looking at a 725, but I noticed that retrogression no longer sells it. A google search made it seem like the seatpost clamp was the culprit. So does that make a 2013 or 2014, the better pickup? Or would these still have some sort of leader creak? Does the 735 have the same issue?

What about the Aventon, Unknown or Thrones? To me they look like they took the market space of Visps with varying levels of quality control. Is one better than the other?

Any thoughts on Engine 11?

If it's worth anything. I originally told him he should be looking at either of the Felt TKs, Dolan Pre Cursa, Dolan TC1, and Fuji Track in that order. Think he wants those sweet aero shapes otherwise I would have thrown a Ridley Oval, All City thunderdome, and Pake French 75 in the mix as well. Used frames are definitely on the table btw.



Thanks in advance, especially for that slog of a post.
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Old 09-02-15, 07:56 AM
  #10190  
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Hello Scrod.
I got Miche Pistard WR wheels (very cheap). Can I use them with rim brakes? thank you
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Old 09-02-15, 08:44 AM
  #10191  
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Originally Posted by magomaev
Hello Scrod.
I got Miche Pistard WR wheels (very cheap). Can I use them with rim brakes? thank you
Yes.
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Old 09-02-15, 08:45 AM
  #10192  
Your cog is slipping.
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Originally Posted by striknein
Scrod,

Have you ever paid for it?
Never.
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Old 09-02-15, 08:49 AM
  #10193  
Your cog is slipping.
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Originally Posted by bryyando
Hello Scrod/Everyone,

Buddy of mine is looking to build up a $500ish frame and wanted my help. I've been out of the loop (last time I was active here, iro was having a hub sale) and unfamiliar with a lot of what is on the market at the moment.

Anyways he was originally looking at a 725, but I noticed that retrogression no longer sells it. A google search made it seem like the seatpost clamp was the culprit. So does that make a 2013 or 2014, the better pickup? Or would these still have some sort of leader creak? Does the 735 have the same issue?

What about the Aventon, Unknown or Thrones? To me they look like they took the market space of Visps with varying levels of quality control. Is one better than the other?

Any thoughts on Engine 11?

If it's worth anything. I originally told him he should be looking at either of the Felt TKs, Dolan Pre Cursa, Dolan TC1, and Fuji Track in that order. Think he wants those sweet aero shapes otherwise I would have thrown a Ridley Oval, All City thunderdome, and Pake French 75 in the mix as well. Used frames are definitely on the table btw.



Thanks in advance, especially for that slog of a post.
Old Leaders creak, new ones crack. This goes for both the 725 and 735.

Of the three other choices, Aventon is your friend's best bet if he's looking for big aero-style tubes. Unlike Leader, their frames have gotten better over the past few years. Unknown and Throne are both garbage. Engine 11 frames seem decent but I've never seen one in person.
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Old 09-02-15, 08:50 AM
  #10194  
Your cog is slipping.
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Originally Posted by GENESTARWIND
Scrod what's your take on the fluted andel cranks
They're IRD Defiants.
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Old 09-02-15, 09:04 AM
  #10195  
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Hey Scrod,

When do you expect the new Sugino DD75 cranksets to arrive, and does the BB install with the Park BB-19.2 tool ?

Also, any eta on the Bojac t-shirts ?
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I see the light at the end of the tunnel, but the tunnel keeps getting longer - me
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Old 09-02-15, 11:15 AM
  #10196  
Your cog is slipping.
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Originally Posted by TejanoTrackie
Hey Scrod,

When do you expect the new Sugino DD75 cranksets to arrive, and does the BB install with the Park BB-19.2 tool ?
They're here! We've just been away from the shop until today (we were on vacation for a week) and haven't updated the site until just now. BBT-19.2 is the tool you'd need.

Originally Posted by TejanoTrackie
Also, any eta on the Bojac t-shirts ?
Not sure. We've got a ton of stuff happening all at once right now but hopefully soon!

Last edited by Scrodzilla; 09-02-15 at 11:23 AM.
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Old 09-02-15, 11:40 AM
  #10197  
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
They're here! We've just been away from the shop until today (we were on vacation for a week) and haven't updated the site until just now. BBT-19.2 is the tool you'd need.
Fantastic ! Just ordered it. Also, just to let you know that the Tange-Seiki BB I also ordered is for the old Sugino 75 square taper cranks that I am removing from the Pista Concept and will be transferring to the Wabi Lightning.
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Old 09-02-15, 12:18 PM
  #10198  
Your cog is slipping.
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Thanks TT!
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Old 09-03-15, 01:11 PM
  #10199  
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Noob in South Florida

Hey Scrod and anyone else who would like to chime in,

I've been lurking the forum (particularly the ss/fg section). I've done loads of research, tested out a few bikes, and am yet to pull the trigger on anything.
Seems like you are THE guy to talk to.
I have the option of building out my own bike over time(about 2-3 months if my math is right), locally buying a Bianchi pista sized at 61cm, or saving up for a little while longer and buying something new in the $800-900 ballpark range.
I'm 6'1", weigh about 175, my inseam is about 32", and my arms are on the longer side.
From the research I've done, the approximate standover height on a Bianchi at 61cm is about 33-33.5"(given the variance from tires/wheelset size). I'm not necessarily concerned about standover height because I'm gonna be riding the bike, not standing over it. I want to be comfortable riding it... If I have to tippy toe at a stoplight until I learn to track stand, whatever.
I'm just curious if that 61cm Bianchi sounds like a good idea (the price is right), if I should go ahead and build out my own bike, or hold tight for a couple of months and buying something in the $800-900 price range.
Essentially, I'm looking for your professional opinion. I intend to hit the local Velodrome(Brian Piccolo in South Florida) and on the overcast days, commute to work.
The Retrogression shop is awesome man, so many things on there I want to get my hands on.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Last edited by M4nny; 09-03-15 at 01:14 PM. Reason: More info
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Old 09-03-15, 02:15 PM
  #10200  
Your cog is slipping.
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Thanks for the kind words!

For starters, I think you should enlist a friend to help you take some accurate measurements and plug your numbers into this fit calculator. While it typically can't be relied on 100%, it will give you a very good idea so you know what top tube length will suit you. Top tube length is the most important factor when choosing a bike frame.
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