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  1. #1
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    Chainline with Hub Choice

    I have a 2008 Kona Paddy wagon that I just purchased a pair of velocity fusion rims for. I am looking for the right sealed hubs to lace up, right now. I am caught between pauls and profiles, but both have a 44mm chainline (with the Kona being 42mm), will this be a problem? I have a Sram External BB with a 48t Sram Crank up front. I am trying to learn as much as possible about chainline theory, so I do not buy hubs and have issues later. Thanks for the help

  2. #2
    Senior Member mihlbach's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rooskavich View Post
    I am caught between pauls and profiles, but both have a 44mm chainline (with the Kona being 42mm), will this be a problem?
    No.
    Last edited by mihlbach; 11-28-11 at 09:18 AM.

  3. #3
    Senior Member mihlbach's Avatar
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    But if it still bothers you, use a narrower cog. I haven't take any measurments, but comparing them side-by-side my Eighth Inch track cog is narrower than some of my other cogs (Surly, Dura Ace). A narrower cog will bring your chainline in a mm or so.

  4. #4
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    What type of cog do you use or who else makes narrow cogs. Would using a BB spacer make more sense? Does anyone have preference between profile or pauls? Let me know

  5. #5
    Senior Member mihlbach's Avatar
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    What would make the most sense is to just use whichever hub you like best. Having your chainline off by 1-3 mm doesn't mean anything. Are you even sure that your present chainline is 42mm? (which has nothing to do with your frame, BTW). Unless you have measured it, you really can't be sure. Its very difficult to measure it to that degree of accuracy anyway. The reason those hubs have slight differences is because a few mm makes no difference whatsoever.

    If you want to achieve a perfect chainline with BB spacers and so forth, get your wheels built first and see what kind of chainline issues you have, if any.

  6. #6
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    Thanks for all the help. The only reason I asked, because this is my first wheel build and I have no experience with either of the two, I was just seeing if you had? Again, thank you

  7. #7
    Senior Member mihlbach's Avatar
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    Before you build your wheel, thread the cog (finger tight only!) onto the hub and take some measurements. All of these hubs are compatible with a standard road double and track crank/BB combo. If you end up with more than 4-5 mm of chainline error (very unlikely) then you ought to consider doing something about it. If necessary there are plenty of ways to tweak a mm of chainline here and there...you can buy a different width cog, add a small spacer behind the cog, add a BB spacer, move your chainring from the outside to inside (if its a double), and redish your wheel slightly and rearrange spacers.
    Last edited by mihlbach; 11-28-11 at 02:24 PM.

  8. #8
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    I appreciate the help. Do you have any references on how to build wheels. My rear wheel is 36h and front is 32h. Any literature on wheel building would help out a lot. Thanks

  9. #9
    Ride for Life wearyourtruth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rooskavich View Post
    I appreciate the help. Do you have any references on how to build wheels. My rear wheel is 36h and front is 32h. Any literature on wheel building would help out a lot. Thanks
    http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html

    behold, thy bible.
    before posting, a "noob" should always ask themselves "could this have been answered by first visiting Sheldon Brown

    -Tim-
    www.velocipedebikeproject.org

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