It was an definitely upgrade from the twisted pile of metal that was his Kilo, post impact...
I don't have a lot of experience with the Kilo TT, but when I had worked on his bike before I wasn't particularly impressed.
I have built several Pake's in the past however, and they have been very easy to assemble. The seat tubes seemed well prepped, very little facing was ever needed, and the threads seemed clean. I never noticed the frames not being well aligned. I think they have a bad rap from people who just want to hate something, but I think they're great bikes for the price... But obviously that's just my opinion.
Last edited by Speed2XS; 12-01-11 at 11:32 PM.
I love my Pake - it came already chased and faced from the factory. Not to mention Tange tubing.
yeah a silver-rimmed front wheel of equal or lesser depth would set it off.
In an ideal world I would say drop the spacers too, but I know that frame's geo isn't necessarily perfect and function > form.
I have long ass femurs and a short torso so I need race bikes with headtubes on the taller side myself.
"Your beauty is an aeroplane;
so high, my heart cannot bear the strain." -A.C. Jobim, Triste
The black and yellow Pake was one of my favorite bikes on the forums. It will be missed.
Finally got some road miles on it today, after days of cold rain and bitter cold yesterday. It's a sweet responsive ride and
climbs nicely out of the saddle. There's a bit of toe overlap, but nothing excessive, and it's easy to maneuver in tight places. I lowered the saddle 1/4 inch and like the bars where they are now, so I don't plan to change them. The Flite saddle was comfortable enough for my 1/2 hour ride wearing sweat pants over briefs, so I imagine it will be fine for longer rides with padded chamois bib shorts and leg warmers.
Rode it yesterday on the rollers, and determined that the chainline was off with the cog in its normal position. The chain was crunching and popping, and the bike was not tracking straight when I readjusted the wheel. Solved the problem by shifting the hub 2mm to the drive side by moving an axle spacer and redishing the wheel. Now it's smooth as butter and tracks perfectly, but I can no longer flip the wheel to use a different cog on the other side.
Good to hear you're liking it for the most part. Is there some way you could address the chainline issue at the crank so your wheel would be good on either side? Are chainline issues easier to spot on the rollers or was that just because that was your first time riding it? I'm hopefully getting rollers for Christmas but I think my chainline is pretty much dead on.
My Pake FG/SS in street trim with the spoked flippable wheels, water bottle and drop bars. I also have a set of bullhorn bars with a bit shorter stem and I am working on a second set of aero wheels that will be FG only.
Just your average 'high-functioning' lunatic, capable of passing as 'normal' for short periods of time.....
The difference between genius and stupidity is; genius has its limits. - Albert Einstein
We all know that light travels faster than sound. That's why certain people appear bright until you hear them speak. - Albert Einstein