Thanks for the responses!
Originally Posted by prooftheory
With regard to the chainstay space, the worst that could happen is that the tires would rub occasionally, right? This might mean some slowing but nothing catastrophic. My guess is that 4mm is plenty.
The position in the drop outs should be fine as well, I think, unless the wingnuts are over the edge. The dropouts are made that long so that there can be some adjustments made with regard to the gearing. Just make sure that its tight.
This is what I assumed since it's the same amount of contact between the nut & track end. I'll be sure to keep it tight & check it often.
Originally Posted by AngryScientist
it may be difficult tensioning the chain if there is very little fore/aft play in the rear dropouts due to the fatter tire, but as long as the entire nut surface area is engaged in the dropout (track end), without any hanging off the back, you should be good to go. tighten well.
I wondered about this and was conservative with how far back I pushed my current wheel/tire when measuring. I had the wingnut a few mm before the end of the dropout to give myself some wiggle room.
Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
You could also use a half-link to add or subtract 1/4" to or from your chain if need be.
The nut is about 5/8" frome the end of the track end now. I planned on getting both a link and a 1/2 link just in case.
Seems obvious, but I'll ask any way. A link should add whatever the distance is from pin to pin to the length of the chain, right?
Not sure how accurate ISO measurements are, but while lookin at tires, I looked for ISO measurements that matched the tire size. Some ISO measurements for 700x35 tires were actually listed as 37mm. I came up with:
-Kenda K193 Kwest with K-Shield 700x35
-Vittoria Randonneur Hyper 700x35
-Michelin Pilot City 700x35
Anyone have hands on with these to confirm actual width? Any others I should consider that are actually 35mm wide? I'm looking for a slick or inverted tread with some sort of puncture protection.