Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 7 of 7
  1. #1
    Senior Member BezO's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Washington, DC
    Posts
    131
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Back tire fit safety - chainstay & track end

    What's the tightest, safe fit between the chainstays?

    And how far back in the track end can I go, safely?

    Trying to fit the biggest tire I can on a no name frame I have. Pushing the wheel back so that the nut is a few mm before the end of the drop out, I have about 43mm of chainstay space at the widest part of the tire. Would a 35mm tire be too tight - 4mm on each side of the tire? And is having the wheel that far back in the track end safe?


    Thanks

  2. #2
    Veteran Bastard Scrodzilla's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    My Bikes
    EAI Bare Knuckle / Leader 725 / 1975 Raleigh Professional Track
    Posts
    23,814
    Mentioned
    22 Post(s)
    Tagged
    2 Thread(s)
    I cleaned this up so we could start again.

    evilcryalotmore - please read the damn post before responding. If you don't know what the OP is talking about, don't respond.

  3. #3
    for dynamic hybrid logics prooftheory's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Buffalo NY
    Posts
    2,195
    Mentioned
    8 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    With regard to the chainstay space, the worst that could happen is that the tires would rub occasionally, right? This might mean some slowing but nothing catastrophic. My guess is that 4mm is plenty.

    The position in the drop outs should be fine as well, I think, unless the wingnuts are over the edge. The dropouts are made that long so that there can be some adjustments made with regard to the gearing. Just make sure that its tight.

  4. #4
    Lost AngryScientist's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    nutley, nj
    Posts
    4,450
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    i'll start:

    it may be difficult tensioning the chain if there is very little fore/aft play in the rear dropouts due to the fatter tire, but as long as the entire nut surface area is engaged in the dropout (track end), without any hanging off the back, you should be good to go. tighten well.

  5. #5
    Veteran Bastard Scrodzilla's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    My Bikes
    EAI Bare Knuckle / Leader 725 / 1975 Raleigh Professional Track
    Posts
    23,814
    Mentioned
    22 Post(s)
    Tagged
    2 Thread(s)
    You could also use a half-link to add or subtract 1/4" to or from your chain if need be.

  6. #6
    Senior Member BezO's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Washington, DC
    Posts
    131
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Thanks for the responses!

    Quote Originally Posted by prooftheory View Post
    With regard to the chainstay space, the worst that could happen is that the tires would rub occasionally, right? This might mean some slowing but nothing catastrophic. My guess is that 4mm is plenty.

    The position in the drop outs should be fine as well, I think, unless the wingnuts are over the edge. The dropouts are made that long so that there can be some adjustments made with regard to the gearing. Just make sure that its tight.
    This is what I assumed since it's the same amount of contact between the nut & track end. I'll be sure to keep it tight & check it often.

    Quote Originally Posted by AngryScientist View Post
    i'll start:

    it may be difficult tensioning the chain if there is very little fore/aft play in the rear dropouts due to the fatter tire, but as long as the entire nut surface area is engaged in the dropout (track end), without any hanging off the back, you should be good to go. tighten well.
    I wondered about this and was conservative with how far back I pushed my current wheel/tire when measuring. I had the wingnut a few mm before the end of the dropout to give myself some wiggle room.

    Quote Originally Posted by Scrodzilla View Post
    You could also use a half-link to add or subtract 1/4" to or from your chain if need be.
    The nut is about 5/8" frome the end of the track end now. I planned on getting both a link and a 1/2 link just in case.

    Seems obvious, but I'll ask any way. A link should add whatever the distance is from pin to pin to the length of the chain, right?

    -----

    Not sure how accurate ISO measurements are, but while lookin at tires, I looked for ISO measurements that matched the tire size. Some ISO measurements for 700x35 tires were actually listed as 37mm. I came up with:

    -Kenda K193 Kwest with K-Shield 700x35
    -Vittoria Randonneur Hyper 700x35
    -Michelin Pilot City 700x35

    Anyone have hands on with these to confirm actual width? Any others I should consider that are actually 35mm wide? I'm looking for a slick or inverted tread with some sort of puncture protection.

    Thanks again!

  7. #7
    Cat Enthusiast ddeadserious's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Plymouth, MI
    My Bikes
    All City Nature Boy
    Posts
    2,342
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by BezO View Post
    Seems obvious, but I'll ask any way. A link should add whatever the distance is from pin to pin to the length of the chain, right?
    Not quite. Adding a link(one inside, one outside) pushed my axle back about .75". Seems like it'll move it about half of the length of whatever you add.
    ALL CITY NATURE BOY

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •