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  1. #1
    Green Light djsfix's Avatar
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    Picking up first fixy tomorrow, any advice?

    What's up everyone,


    New to the FG world, but am tired of getting everywhere on foot. I was thinking about buying a used car and decided to go with this option instead (gas prices, insurance, environment, health, etc.) I went to a local shop today before I found this forum and i was looking at a 2011 model of a Fuji Declaration. If I go with that option it's gonna be $445 out the door, but being that I'm still relatively new to this area your advice would be awesome

    I'm open to other bikes, but this one was a complete which I can start off with and upgrade as I get more and more involved in the fixed community. I figure if I start with a complete I'll figure out pretty quickly what I do and don't like and then I can start saving up to build my next bike from scratch.

    I really want to hear your input, good or bad, just let it be constructive. I also checked out the newby sticky on the top of the threads before posting this. The link for finding the bike that works for me seems cool, but the last thing that was posted in there was from 2010.

    So all advice is welcome

    -djsfix

  2. #2
    Hi, I'm Bryan. jimmytango's Avatar
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    Good call on the Fuji. Not a bad rig. First bits of advice: Get a helmet, and wear it. Mine has saved my life many times. Get a better lock than you think you'll need. Learn how to change/patch a flat, and get all necessary tools. Stop calling them "fixy"s.

    Welcome.
    I am not the company I keep.

  3. #3
    Veteran Racer TejanoTrackie's Avatar
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    It looks like an overpriced hiten "fixie" that I wouldn't spend half that much on it. Not worth upgrading. If you can spend that much you can do much better.
    What, Me Worry? - Alfred E. Neuman

    Quote Originally Posted by Dcv View Post
    I'd like to think i have as much money as brains.

  4. #4
    Hi, I'm Bryan. jimmytango's Avatar
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    It's double butted CroMo. I say worth it, but worth is subjective.
    I am not the company I keep.

  5. #5
    Goes to 11. striknein's Avatar
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    Kilo TT.
    Quote Originally Posted by Nagrom_ View Post
    I actually just run calipers. Levers are for scrubs.

  6. #6
    Veteran Racer TejanoTrackie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimmytango View Post
    It's double butted CroMo. I say worth it, but worth is subjective.
    Where do you find that. What I saw is that it's a Fuji Feather and weighs about 24 1/2 pounds, which is pretty heavy for a DB frame. Are we talking about the same bike ? Maybe Scrod will know.
    What, Me Worry? - Alfred E. Neuman

    Quote Originally Posted by Dcv View Post
    I'd like to think i have as much money as brains.

  7. #7
    Ths Hipstr Kills Masheenz cc700's Avatar
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    get a road bike

  8. #8
        Pinkbullet3's Avatar
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    Like jimmytango said, whatever bike you get, be sure you use a sturdy U-lock (here's a popular one) so your bike doesn't get stolen when you're away from it.
    Quote Originally Posted by Upilu View Post
    are you idiot???

  9. #9
    Hi, I'm Bryan. jimmytango's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TejanoTrackie View Post
    Where do you find that. What I saw is that it's a Fuji Feather and weighs about 24 1/2 pounds, which is pretty heavy for a DB frame. Are we talking about the same bike ? Maybe Scrod will know.
    http://www.fujibikes.com/bike/details/declaration-usa
    I am not the company I keep.

  10. #10
    Green Light djsfix's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimmytango View Post
    Good call on the Fuji. Not a bad rig. First bits of advice: Get a helmet, and wear it. Mine has saved my life many times. Get a better lock than you think you'll need. Learn how to change/patch a flat, and get all necessary tools. Stop calling them "fixy"s.

    Welcome.
    What's up Jimmy, yeah I'm probably going to pick the Declaration up unless someone can explain why it would be a bad option. I'll be commuting, 30 miles round trip minimum, five to six days a week so the opportunity to get hit is pretty high (helmet will be a must) Any recommendations on locks and tool kits? Haha, the only reason I call it a "fixy" is because that's what I know them as. Would road bike be a less newb label? Thanks again Tango, I appreciate the input.
    Quote Originally Posted by TejanoTrackie View Post
    It looks like an overpriced hiten "fixie" that I wouldn't spend half that much on it. Not worth upgrading. If you can spend that much you can do much better.
    Hey Tejano, thanks for the reply, but can you explain why you wouldn't spend half as much on the Fuji and why it isn't worth upgrading so I have a better understanding of why I should avoid buying it tomorrow? Also, can you recommend something that you would spend that much on and why?
    Quote Originally Posted by striknein View Post
    Kilo TT.
    Striknein do you have a Kilo TT yourself?
    Quote Originally Posted by TejanoTrackie View Post
    Where do you find that. What I saw is that it's a Fuji Feather and weighs about 24 1/2 pounds, which is pretty heavy for a DB frame. Are we talking about the same bike ? Maybe Scrod will know.
    From the background work I've done your saying that the Declaration is just the "Feather" with a different name, correct? Pleaaaaaase follow up with your posts so I can actually learn from what you're saying. Like I said I'm new to this scene and I would like to have a solid foundation to build off of.

    Thank you everyone for responding to my post, I value all your input,

    -djsfix

  11. #11
    Green Light djsfix's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pinkbullet3 View Post
    Like jimmytango said, whatever bike you get, be sure you use a sturdy U-lock (here's a popular one) so your bike doesn't get stolen when you're away from it.
    Thanks for the recommendation Pink!

    -djsfix

  12. #12
    Veteran Racer TejanoTrackie's Avatar
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    I have the Motobecane Messenger, which is equivalent to the Fuji for $300 mail order from bikesdirect >>> http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...essenger_x.htm It weighs less than the Fuji.

    If you're going to ride 30 miles, then drop bars with hooded levers make more sense than fixie riser bars. I think the Fuji is overpriced. You can buy a Kilo TT Pro for $400, which has a much better quality frame and wheelset, or better yet for $440 get a Kilo WT with wide tires and room for fenders and a rack.
    What, Me Worry? - Alfred E. Neuman

    Quote Originally Posted by Dcv View Post
    I'd like to think i have as much money as brains.

  13. #13
    Green Light djsfix's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TejanoTrackie View Post
    I have the Motobecane Messenger, which is equivalent to the Fuji for $300 mail order from bikesdirect >>> http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...essenger_x.htm It weighs less than the Fuji.

    If you're going to ride 30 miles, then drop bars with hooded levers make more sense than fixie riser bars. I think the Fuji is overpriced. You can buy a Kilo TT Pro for $400, which has a much better quality frame and wheelset, or better yet for $440 get a Kilo WT with wide tires and room for fenders and a rack.
    Awesome Tejano,

    Well I checked with bikesdirect and unfortunately for me they're sold out of the 56cm that I would need, so that blows. Thank you for the input on the bars, levers, bikes, etc. amigo it's nice hearing peoples advice when they have experience. On the Kilo TT and WT both look good, but they don't have the bike in my size (56cm).

    I'm noticing the label "track" and "road" what's the biggest difference between the two?

    -djsfix

  14. #14
    Veteran Racer TejanoTrackie's Avatar
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    Careful on the sizing. The Kilo TT is sized center to center, so if you ride 56cm center to top, then you need 53cm center to center. The Kilo WT is sized center to top, however. How did you decide you need a 56cm frame ? Don't pay any attention to the track .vs. road labels. They have no meaning in this discussion.
    What, Me Worry? - Alfred E. Neuman

    Quote Originally Posted by Dcv View Post
    I'd like to think i have as much money as brains.

  15. #15
    Green Light djsfix's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TejanoTrackie View Post
    Careful on the sizing. The Kilo TT is sized center to center, so if you ride 56cm center to top, then you need 53cm center to center. The Kilo WT is sized center to top, however. How did you decide you need a 56cm frame ? Don't pay any attention to the track .vs. road labels. They have no meaning in this discussion.
    I'm still picking up on all the terms (center to center/center to top), I decided on the 56cm frame today when i was riding a few different size frames at the shop I was referred to. At first I tested a 54, but I felt to crammed on the bike, when I rode the Declaration it was a 56 and it felt good. Okay, I'll ignore the track/road part. Actually if I'm avoiding the track vs road labels how would this bike compare http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...cane/track.htm ?

    -djsfix

  16. #16
    Veteran Racer TejanoTrackie's Avatar
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    Yes, 56cm on that bike is the same as what you test rode. Basicially, the frame size is normally the length of the seat tube from the center of the cranks to the top where the seatpost is clamped. That is refered to as c-t (center to top). Rarely, a few bikes like the Kilo TT are measure from the center of the cranks to the intersection with the top tube, and that is referred to as c-c (center to center). As to the Moto Track, I don't recommend it as it only comes with a rear brake, and you want a front brake when riding fixed on the road. Like I said, if you want to pay less, consider the Moto Messenger, which is available in blue in 56cm. and costs $300. You will have to buy a fixed cog and lockring, as it is supplied only with a freewheel standard. Understand that with the cheaper bikes you get cheaper wheels with cheaper hubs that require adjustment and maintenance and aren't very smooth.
    What, Me Worry? - Alfred E. Neuman

    Quote Originally Posted by Dcv View Post
    I'd like to think i have as much money as brains.

  17. #17
    Green Light djsfix's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TejanoTrackie View Post
    Yes, 56cm on that bike is the same as what you test rode. Basicially, the frame size is normally the length of the seat tube from the center of the cranks to the top where the seatpost is clamped. That is refered to as c-t (center to top). Rarely, a few bikes like the Kilo TT are measure from the center of the cranks to the intersection with the top tube, and that is referred to as c-c (center to center). As to the Moto Track, I don't recommend it as it only comes with a rear brake, and you want a front brake when riding fixed on the road. Like I said, if you want to pay less, consider the Moto Messenger, which is available in blue in 56cm. and costs $300. You will have to buy a fixed cog and lockring, as it is supplied only with a freewheel standard. Understand that with the cheaper bikes you get cheaper wheels with cheaper hubs that require adjustment and maintenance and aren't very smooth.
    Thanks for breaking it down the c-t and c-c for me Tejano. I really want to pick up that Moto Messenger, but in Black (unfortunately blue isn't a color that you want to be rolling around with in my area) gotta stay safe. Well this is a crappy situation cause I want to get a bike tomorrow, but I don't want to waste my money on a subpar product that I will be using daily. What do I do Tejano?!?!?

    -djsfix

  18. #18
    Veteran Racer TejanoTrackie's Avatar
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    You can get a Windsor Clockwork in 56cm black for $300 >>> http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/.../clockwork.htm Similar bike to the Messenger, and same quality.
    What, Me Worry? - Alfred E. Neuman

    Quote Originally Posted by Dcv View Post
    I'd like to think i have as much money as brains.

  19. #19
    Green Light djsfix's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TejanoTrackie View Post
    You can get a Windsor Clockwork in 56cm black for $300 >>> http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/.../clockwork.htm Similar bike to the Messenger, and same quality.
    Yeah I was looking at the clockwork, but wasn't sure since you hadn't brought it up prior. I figured since it was made of steel that an aluminum option would be more efficient. When it says it has a flip/flop hub that means I won't need to pick up the fixed cog and lockring, right? Since I'm saving money by picking up one of these is there any upgrade parts I should pick up as well to start off with?

    -djsfix

  20. #20
    Veteran Racer TejanoTrackie's Avatar
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    You will still need to buy a cog and lockring. Flip flop hub just means the hub is threaded on both sides for a freewheel on one side and a fixed cog / lockring on the other. Those models only include a freewheel, but the bike will be rideable until you can get a fixed cog and flip the rear wheel. About the only upgrade you'll probably want is better pedals with clips and straps. The stock ones totally suck. Since you'll be buying the cog anyway, I'd recommend getting a 17 or 18 tooth so you won't have trouble with hills and headwinds. I found the saddle to be ok on mine, but that's just a personal thing.
    What, Me Worry? - Alfred E. Neuman

    Quote Originally Posted by Dcv View Post
    I'd like to think i have as much money as brains.

  21. #21
    Green Light djsfix's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TejanoTrackie View Post
    You will still need to buy a cog and lockring. Flip flop hub just means the hub is threaded on both sides for a freewheel on one side and a fixed cog / lockring on the other. Those models only include a freewheel, but the bike will be rideable until you can get a fixed cog and flip the rear wheel. About the only upgrade you'll probably want is better pedals with clips and straps. The stock ones totally suck. Since you'll be buying the cog anyway, I'd recommend getting a 17 or 18 tooth so you won't have trouble with hills and headwinds. I found the saddle to be ok on mine, but that's just a personal thing.
    So I was looking at the Clockwork and then I came across The Hour, what's your take on those two side by side? I like the cleaner look to The Hour and it is cheaper then the Clockwork while they look like they both have the same quality parts on them. The Hour already comes with the fixed cog although it doesn't have brakes. I could just pick up a front break set and mount it myself.

    All this aside, I feel like a little kid running around toys-r-us, lol.

    -djsfix

  22. #22
    Veteran Racer TejanoTrackie's Avatar
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    The difference is only $20 and a front brakeset will cost more than that. Also, the stock cog is 16T, which is going to be very high gearing for city riding, stop and go. Anyway, gotta go to bed now.
    What, Me Worry? - Alfred E. Neuman

    Quote Originally Posted by Dcv View Post
    I'd like to think i have as much money as brains.

  23. #23
    Green Light djsfix's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TejanoTrackie View Post
    The difference is only $20 and a front brakeset will cost more than that. Also, the stock cog is 16T, which is going to be very high gearing for city riding, stop and go. Anyway, gotta go to bed now.
    True, have a good night Tejano.

    Thanks for the insight,

    -djsfix

  24. #24
    Veteran Bastard Scrodzilla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by djsfix View Post
    From the background work I've done your saying that the Declaration is just the "Feather" with a different name, correct?
    The Feather and Declaration frames are similar in construction but have slightly different geometry. The Declaration can barspin and is set up more for "urban" riding, while the Feather can not bar spin and looks more like a track bike.

  25. #25
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    @djsfix...i sincerely hope you enjoy whichever bike you end up buying. but before you decide against that fuji, which apparently you could assure your correct size on & pickup at a local shop & be riding today along with creating a relationship with a place in your town to help you when you need it, you should know that TejanoTrackie was absolutely incorrect in telling you it is hi-ten.

    according to fuji's website, the declaration (& the feather as well) is built with:
    MAIN FRAME - Elios 2 custom-butted CrMo w/ outer butted seat tube, single water bottle mount
    REAR TRIANGLE - Elios 2 custom-tapered CrMo w/ track dropout, bridge drilled for rear brake
    FORK- Fuji 1 1/8" custom triple-butted CrMo, crown drilled for front brake

    i am not commenting whether the declaration is a better or worse buy than the bikes TT recommended to you but you should at least have accurate information to help you make your decision.

    but sometimes i do wonder at the overwhelming zeal around here to sell for bikedirect. i sure hope bfssfg gets some commision on all the bikes they move for bd

    have fun & good luck...

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