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  1. #1
    Member ImMilesDavis's Avatar
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    New To The Fixed Gear

    So... My friend from Chicago has totally made me addicted to the fixed gear. Thing is, I don't have one of my own... yet. I'm converting my early 80's Benotto 1000, but the conversion is taking me forever because I want to do it right and I hear to many these conflicting opinions of how it should be done. I guess what I'm asking is, What is the best online site to buy Fixed Gear gear and what should I get? I've been to SheldonBrown but all the links from his site seem over priced...


    (oh the arguments this thread will start)

  2. #2
    Senior Member little5guy's Avatar
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    It depends on a variety of things, such as how much money you want to spend or how nice the frame is. For example, my first fixed gear was a buildup of a decent, but not great, old japanese frame. I basically put on the cheapest stuff I could find and it has worked out fine--sun rims and suzue fixed/free hub. If you can, I would recommend getting the wheels done at a local shop so they can help you out with chain line, etc. For my next build up I am going to put on better stuff and bling it out a little.

    That having been said, get a Level hub for the rear. Those are awesome. The cogs bolt onto the hub like a chainwheel. Very cool. For vendors, if you search the forums you will find loads of different opinions on that.

  3. #3
    Member ImMilesDavis's Avatar
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    Well so far, I've bought a IroCycle basic Flip/flop wheel set. I haven't bought a Cog and lockring or the freewheel. Wheel is threaded differently on each side (one side with with a solid section of thread and the other with two sections of threads of different circumference). I want to buy parts that are quality. Not top of the line. I don't want to pay a ton, but I also don't want to pay for junk. I am willing to pay for something in that range. Maybe I was wrong about the SheldonBrown links maybe that's what I looking for, I guess I'm just not sure of what I should get for this set up. No one in my area really rides Fixed Gear bikes so it's kind of frustrating going into bike shops and asking what I should do and having the guy say, "fiiiixxed geeear..... hmmm. I've heard of those.... I have beach cruisers with flames!"

    I guess It would help if I heard what you guy's on your bikes and what you think of them, or, any bad experiences you have had with certain parts.
    Last edited by ImMilesDavis; 12-25-04 at 01:36 PM.

  4. #4
    Member ImMilesDavis's Avatar
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    Oh... I guess it would be important to say that I want to build this bike as a durable street bike that can take a beating!

  5. #5
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    If you want a durable bike, the iro wheels are a good start. You sahould buy an EAI, Dura-Ace, Or SOMA cog. They all are good, durable cogs.
    Harris Cyclery sells them, as does Nashbar, and many people sell them on ebay. They're usually some deals on ebay.
    The cogs are around $20-30. Lockrings run about $10. You want to have areally durable rear cog setup.

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/fixed.html#sprockets

    If your bike is complete, you can strip off all of the gears,shifters,rear brake, extra chain ring, etc. Get some single stack bolts which only hold one chainring, and then use one of your current chainrings. Probably the smaller one (with a double) or the middle one (with a triple).

    It shouldn't be so hard after that.

    Here is a link that should walk you through all the steps to convert.... (fixed gear on the cheap)

    Feel free to ask any more questions, or PM me if you want to.

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/deakins/...onversion.html

  6. #6
    H23
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    Senior Member H23's Avatar
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    You should be able to get a new wheel for around US$120-- for example a suzue basic flip-flop hub with Mavic ma3. Then all you need is a track cog and lockring for another 40 dollars or so.

    The hard part is then dealing with your chainline. You might need mess with spacers to get it just right. I like to use a combination of bb spacers and chainring spacers to get the chainring lined up with the cog. To do this you need to measure your chainline accurately, and the cog and chainring need to be within a few millimeters for the spacers to be able to adjust.

    All in all its a pain in the ass, but its worth it. Chainline is critical for safety.

  7. #7
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    People! Please read his post. He ALREADY has the IRO basic flip/flop wheel set, and needs advice on other compenents / the conversion...

  8. #8
    Employee Smorgasbord's Avatar
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    Something that hasn't been mentioned yet is handlebars and brakes. Bullhorns or drops (or moustache or flat)? This is going to be a personal preference.

    Levers: bar end, cyclocross, flipped road?

    Hinged cyclocross is easiest to move back and forth to other bars if you play bike polo, or decide to ride brakeless or need to remove your brake lever easily. The flipped road lever is cheapest if you use bullhorns. This also depends on where you like to hold the bars when you ride. If you prefer to ride in the drops, you may want bar end or road levers (on either bullhorns or drop bars). If you prefer the tops, cyclocross levers are a good choice.

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