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  1. #51
    Senior Member rekmeyata's Avatar
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    I don't think there is any "best" hubs, there may be some "worst" hubs though like Walmart hubs, but frankly I've never had any of my kids Walmart bikes hubs fail either they just don't spin real well. The reason I say that I don't believe there is any "best" is because I've never had a hub fail, nor knew anybody who has had one fail, and they all spin forever...seemily. I think you have a hub you like due to appearance get it and not worry about it. Hubs are the most reliable bike component besides headsets, either of which rarely fail. I think way too many cyclists get their noses bent out of shape over hubs and headsets.

  2. #52
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    What about weight? Most people run high flange hubs on fixed gears which I assume is for looks right? Low flange hubs like the ones in the Wabi wheels would be lighter and the same from a performance perspective.

  3. #53
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    Modern alloy high flange track hubs can be lightish weigth and cheap at the same time. A Novatec rear high flange weighs 235 grms or there about. Having a hollow axle helps. Phils are boat anchors , as are Miche hubs.

    The lightest hub to my knowledge is a custom Mack low flange hub (145 grms)
    You fixed my flat tire and now my light doesn't work, so...

  4. #54
    Morton Nagrom_'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Batavus View Post
    The lightest hub to my knowledge is a custom Mack low flange hub (145 grms)
    I'm looking into hubs right now for a wheelbuild. I'm more than likely going with an American Classic Micro 58 in front, and an AmClassic Track in the rear.

    The Micro 58 weighs 58 grams.
    The Rear high flange weighs 180g.

    Speaking of, anyone ever ridden AC's? thoughts?
    Quote Originally Posted by seau grateau View Post
    No offense but you're an idiot.
    PedalRoom

  5. #55
    Senior Member mihlbach's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nightfly View Post
    What about weight? Most people run high flange hubs on fixed gears which I assume is for looks right? Low flange hubs like the ones in the Wabi wheels would be lighter and the same from a performance perspective.
    Theoretically high flanges make the wheel stiffer, but symmetrical track wheels are already stiff enough, so its mostly just for looks. In the old days, the high flange hub allowed you to change a broken spoke without removing the cog. The flange BTW doesn't really add a lot of weight, although it does contribute. The solid bolt-on axle is mostly what make track hubs boat anchors.

  6. #56
    Senior Member rekmeyata's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nightfly View Post
    What about weight? Most people run high flange hubs on fixed gears which I assume is for looks right? Low flange hubs like the ones in the Wabi wheels would be lighter and the same from a performance perspective.
    Today it's for looks, some like that old school look. Years ago, high flange hubs were used because they will give a wheel slightly more lateral strength so the poorer designed spokes wouldn't break as much. But a high flange hub will make the ride a tad stiffer feeling due to the slightly shorter spoke length, just as deep dish rims make the ride stiffer feeling due to shorter spoke lengths. But the original reason for high flange hubs was to prevent or reduce spoke breakage.

    It does make me wonder though, that maybe spoke breakage that still happens today, though not as frequently, could be reduced if high flange hubs were being used? So there may be still some use for them especially if your a clydesdale. Today low flange hubs are in vogue because they do reduce weight a bit more.
    Last edited by rekmeyata; 04-05-12 at 02:37 PM.

  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nagrom_ View Post
    I'm looking into hubs right now for a wheelbuild. I'm more than likely going with an American Classic Micro 58 in front, and an AmClassic Track in the rear.

    The Micro 58 weighs 58 grams.
    The Rear high flange weighs 180g.

    Speaking of, anyone ever ridden AC's? thoughts?
    In order to achieve this low weight, AC uses tiny, fast wearing bearings. They have been known for poor quality/fragile locknuts and bearing failure.

    For the money, I would get a Mack hub. Bigger bearings, custom drilling and color and a superb finish. Just use a novatec road low flange for the front. Cheap and light (78 grms) and hasn't failed me.
    You fixed my flat tire and now my light doesn't work, so...

  8. #58
    Decrepit Member Scooper's Avatar
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    Curtis Odom showed these at NAHBS. They are beautifully made, and polished stainless shells are an option.



    - Stan

  9. #59
    Senior Member
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    ^^ Those look nice... and expensive...

  10. #60
    Decrepit Member Scooper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bfloyd6969 View Post
    ^^ Those look nice... and expensive...
    Yep. $475 per pair (front and rear track hubs). Stainless steel hub bodies are $100 option (per pair).
    - Stan

  11. #61
    Senior Member
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    I recently acquired these:





    I'm still salivating
    You fixed my flat tire and now my light doesn't work, so...

  12. #62
    A little North of Hell
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    baba

    Quote Originally Posted by Batavus View Post
    I recently acquired these:

    I'm still salivating
    stop drooling, and just build them.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
    XXXI

  13. #63
    Senior Member
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    Only if I can find worthy rims for them. I'm thinking TB-14. I had a pair of NOS MA-2's but I sold them.
    You fixed my flat tire and now my light doesn't work, so...

  14. #64
    * adriano's Avatar
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    velo orange pbp maybe.

  15. #65
    hamcycles.com hamfoh's Avatar
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    I can't speak to the expertise that the wheelbuilders in this thread can, but my favorite rear hub to date has been the somewhat new all-city sheriff
    Bikes - past and present

  16. #66
    Veteran Mother****er Scrodzilla's Avatar
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    They're not as sexy as the Electra Sheriff Star knockoffs but they're decent. I was surprised to see that they only weigh 226g front/272g rear including hardware - same as standard Novatecs.

  17. #67
    hamcycles.com hamfoh's Avatar
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    yeah I like that they're relatively lightweight, look nice and still nice and stiff while being cheap. they also don't have problems shifting around like I swear to MFing god my PW did no matter what I did to it.
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  18. #68
    Veteran Mother****er Scrodzilla's Avatar
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    Yeah, my Phil hub always slid forward regardless of how tight I had the bolts.

    Last edited by Scrodzilla; 04-07-12 at 08:26 AM.

  19. #69
    Senior Member Ziemas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by max-a-mill View Post
    any cartridge hub be made "phil" smooth my installing some phil bearings.

    if a hub rolls smooth, isn't stripped out or ridiculously heavy you wouldn't notice the difference between it and any high dollar hub out there in terms of it's functionality.
    Not exactly, but close. The bearings in Phil hubs have better seals on them than their after-market bearings. Phil hub bearings are rated to the same levels of water protection as underwater pumps, their after-market bearings are not. If you live and ride in a wet climate this is important, if you live in a dry climate it's not.

  20. #70
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by adriano View Post
    velo orange pbp maybe.
    Well shoot me if I ever build a wheelset with those pieces of crap again. Will not stay true. Detensioned and re-tensioned three times, making sure spoke tension was as even as I could make it. Same result. Gorgeous, but overpriced and uber sub-par quality.
    You fixed my flat tire and now my light doesn't work, so...

  21. #71
    Senior Member rekmeyata's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Batavus View Post
    I recently acquired these:





    I'm still salivating
    So am I, those are beautiful.

  22. #72
    aspiring dirtbag commuter max-a-mill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ziemas View Post
    Not exactly, but close. The bearings in Phil hubs have better seals on them than their after-market bearings. Phil hub bearings are rated to the same levels of water protection as underwater pumps, their after-market bearings are not. If you live and ride in a wet climate this is important, if you live in a dry climate it's not.
    while i am not saying your wrong, that sounds strange...

    you can't replace bearings in phil hubs with bearings as good as the orginials?

    you got any evidence to back this up?

    seals are for sissies anyhow... a well sealed hub is just gonna be slow. what you need to be tarck fast is loose ball unsealed bearings doused in sewing machine oil. just replace your hubs after every wet ride
    - the revolution will not be motorized -

  23. #73
    THE STUFFED Leukybear's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by max-a-mill View Post
    you can't replace bearings in phil hubs with bearings as good as the orginials?

    you got any evidence to back this up?
    Errr... you can.

    http://www.philwood.com/products/bearinghome.php
    Any of our bearings with an “x” in the part number have seals that are as good or better than those found in the highest quality submersible motor and pump bearings.
    • PWXR8: Used in our modern front hubs (all) and rear track hubs.~~~~~
    • PW000: IRO, Suntour, and Formula hubs (front and rear)
    • PW001: Used in our classic hubs
    • PW003: Fat Chance, Klein, and Fischer press-fit bottom brackets
    • PW802: Rolf, American Classic, White Industries, etc.
    • PW803: Campagnolo, American Classic freehubs
    • PWX01: Surly hubs (replaces 7901, front and rear)
    • PWX02: Our cassette and rear non-track hubs
    • PWX03: Used in our standard bottom brackets, Merlin press-fit bottom brackets
    • PWX04: 20mm through-axle hubs
    • PWX05: Shimano, Raceface, FSA, etc. outboard bearing bottom brackets

  24. #74
    Senior Member Ziemas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by max-a-mill View Post
    while i am not saying your wrong, that sounds strange...

    you can't replace bearings in phil hubs with bearings as good as the orginials?

    you got any evidence to back this up?

    seals are for sissies anyhow... a well sealed hub is just gonna be slow. what you need to be tarck fast is loose ball unsealed bearings doused in sewing machine oil. just replace your hubs after every wet ride
    Quote Originally Posted by Leukybear View Post
    Errr... you can.

    http://www.philwood.com/products/bearinghome.php
    Any of our bearings with an “x” in the part number have seals that are as good or better than those found in the highest quality submersible motor and pump bearings.
    • PWXR8: Used in our modern front hubs (all) and rear track hubs.~~~~~
    • PW000: IRO, Suntour, and Formula hubs (front and rear)
    • PW001: Used in our classic hubs
    • PW003: Fat Chance, Klein, and Fischer press-fit bottom brackets
    • PW802: Rolf, American Classic, White Industries, etc.
    • PW803: Campagnolo, American Classic freehubs
    • PWX01: Surly hubs (replaces 7901, front and rear)
    • PWX02: Our cassette and rear non-track hubs
    • PWX03: Used in our standard bottom brackets, Merlin press-fit bottom brackets
    • PWX04: 20mm through-axle hubs
    • PWX05: Shimano, Raceface, FSA, etc. outboard bearing bottom brackets
    Exactly. PW hub bearings are built to a higher standard in terms of water resistance than their aftermarket bearings. As a wet weather commuter I find this very important. Before I switched to PW hubs I was changing bearings at least once a year, I'm on my fifth year (I think fifth...) riding PW and my hubs still spin like new.

  25. #75
    A little North of Hell
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    Hed/Edco



    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
    XXXI

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