photo9

First off,

As the title explains, I have absolutely no clue in the realm of Fixed/SS bikes. I have done several minor repairs (tubes, brakes, bars) to my CX and Road bike but nothing too involved.

Here is my dilemma, I have recently purchased a 1971 Raleigh Grand Prix (Pics Below) for $25 and really didn't have plans for the bike until....oh about 20 minutes after I got it home. I realized this bike is screaming "FIX ME!!!!" (also my front derailleur is cracked in half) so here I am.

Here is the catch...I have literally zero dollars in bike budget money (all I have to say is I am in my early 20's and I am married).

Here is my big question. What do I need to do to get this bike fixed?

I need the cheapest most cost efficient way to get me started. I can always upgrade later (Christmas). I really just want to see if I like riding fixed or SS.

I am looking for any recommendations at all. I do have a couple bikes I could use as donors (wheels and such) but I am no bike mechanic and I do not know what can be done with Road Bikes in regards to a Fixed Gear bike.

Thank you In Advance.

PS: I have read Sheldon Browns Website, I just do not know which parts are recommended.

seau grateau

The absolute cheapest way would be to steal a rear wheel with a track hub and a fixed cog and lockring on it.

The absolute cheapest honest way would be to get the freewheel off of that rear wheel, thread a fixed cog onto it, and Loctite/weld it on. This is unsafe and not recommended at all by anyone.

The absolute cheapest safe and honest way is to buy a rear wheel with a track hub and a fixed cog and lockring. Velomine is a good site for reasonably priced wheels, and you could also try your local craigslist and/or shops.

Kayce

The absolute least you need is a new rear wheel, cog, and lockring. It is harder to get, but if you are only getting a rear wheel you really really should get a 27" wheel. And in order to not have to buy a chain, you would have to get a 3/32" wide cog.

seau grateau

Also: fixed cogs typically come in two sizes--1/8 and 3/32. 1/8 is track standard and may not work with the chain you have on the bike now, because the teeth themselves are thicker. 3/32 should work fine. You will also need a chain-breaker (or somebody who owns one) to adjust your chain length.

edit- whoops, beat me to it.

photo9

Thanks, Is there an advantage or disadvantage to a 3/32 vs the 1/8 fixed cog?

gigantor

DOM! I don't know what I'm doing... I'm SO scared! (sorry post title made me think of this...)



Photo9,

The most cost effective way to go single speed is to simply remove chain links and set it up to your rear cassette from the larger front chainring. Remove the derailleurs and all the rest to lighten the bike, but keep the brakes. I'd also remove the second levers.

Stage 2 would be to go for fixed if you like single speeding. Find out the rear spacing for your rear dropout. Typically I'd go with 126mm (according to Sheldon Brown's website, a wealth of information). A rear wheel can be ordered for pretty cheap.

Let me know how it goes - I think this is a sweet looking bike and would look cool as a SS / Fix.

seau grateau

Not really.

Kayce

Just noticed something small in the picture, you need some straps for those pedals. That is something you probably knew, and have laying around.

photo9

Yes I do, Thanks for noticing...not sure what those little clips on top of the pedals do...doesn't seem like much.

thenomad

Just get a bmx thread on freewheel and swap. Shorten chain, remove derailleurs and shifters. Then ride it till you can afford a real rearwith flip flop.

hairnet

You can remove the rear derailer, shorten the chain, and ride with one cog on the existing freewheel. Or do as thenomad says

Sherblock

photo9

Are you saying to my existing hub?

Jaytron

All the things I was going to add, have already been covered.

jimmytango

Or, you could just mail it to me. That bike is a lost cause, but I can make sure it finds a use somehow...

Trollface.jpg

Scrodzilla

They hold the strap open. Without them, you'd have a hell of a time getting your foot in.

IthaDan 

Got a local coop?

photo9

No the closest one is probably Austin which is about an hour away.

I don't really live in a bike friendly town so I am trying to get as much info as I can here.

JohnDThompson 

Cheaper than that would be just removing the broken front derailleur and riding it as is.

JohnDThompson 

3/32" cog would allow you to keep using your present chain. 1/8" cog would require replacing the chain with a 1/8" chain.

Tom Stormcrowe

When you strip it down to make it a fixed gear, do NOT butcher the frame and grind off the cable stops and derailleur hanger. That way, if you decide to later, you can put it back as a geared road bike.

Also, you'll want to learn how to keep a straight chain line, etc. I'd gear it about 42:16, which will give you in the neighborhood of 70 gear inches.....good for city riding, not too high, not too low. You could turn it into something along the lines of my Nishiki conversion fairly easily



I'm running Alex 700c x2100 rims with track hubs and 700x28 tires, and a single front brake. I ride on Eggbeater pedals because I outgrew clip and strap back in the 1970's when clipless was invented.

photo9

Thanks a lot for the information.

Awesome bike too! I will post more pictures to this thread as work progresses.

Thanks all who have been helpful.

fuzz2050

If I were in your position, I'd save up for the Velomine wheelset, a cog and lock-ring. New tires too, I guess, but Panaracer Paselas would look great on that bike and are very cheap. Make sure you have a 3/32 cog and you can keep your old chain. Once you have that, you can (pretty easily) take out the rear wheel, remove the derailers and shifters, put in the new wheel, and cut the chain to length. Keep the brakes and those little fender-ettes and you have yourself a pretty awesome bike.

Tom Stormcrowe

Yeah, that's a 1971 frame, by the way. The bikes old enough to be your dad, likely (41 years old). It's a Kawamura Shop hand built, rather than the later line built Nishiki frames, by old man Kawamura, himself. It's frame #12 of January, 1971, by the serial number.

Oh, one more thing: when you go to replace that crankset, look for a 165 MM crank set. You'll lose a bit of crank gain (leverage), but will greatly reduce the chances of a pedal strike when you are turning.

Santaria

Where are you that is 1 hour away from Austin? Killeen?