HELP (about the KMC 710SL)
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HELP (about the KMC 710SL)
Okay, my chain is not "breaking" right now. The pin is not moving, and the plates are getting bent.
Please help quickly! (I've broken chains before with no problems. I use a CT-5, and the chain can't go through the second "slot".)
Please help quickly! (I've broken chains before with no problems. I use a CT-5, and the chain can't go through the second "slot".)
#2
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Use the second slot, I've always found the 710SL is always a tight fit in a park chain tool especially if it is rather new and not broken in. A light tap or two with a rubber mallet/ hammer usually does the job for me to get it in the second slot.
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If it's not lined up just right, you bend links.
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Dont rush things. I ruined a brand new 710SL and a Park CT-3 deluxe chain tool because I rushed/wasn't paying attention.
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the pin is still not going through.
EDIT: I'd like to get this done really soon... I have somewhere to go in under 30 minutes.
EDIT: I'd like to get this done really soon... I have somewhere to go in under 30 minutes.
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I broke a cheap chain breaker trying to remove some links from my 710-SL. I actually had to use my Crank Brothers multi-tool that I carry on my MTB to break it. I think the CT-7 is made for bigger chains...been thinking about getting one.
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Sorry, I don't really have time for that right now. My LBS doesn't have it either.
Oh, and, it's not getting better. Smacking the chain in and out of the tool doesn't seem great.
Oh, and, it's not getting better. Smacking the chain in and out of the tool doesn't seem great.
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CT-5 is intended for derailleur chains. Dunno if that makes a difference.
I use the CT-3 on mine and I have to work at it a little bit and use the different slots.
I use the CT-3 on mine and I have to work at it a little bit and use the different slots.
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my x-tools chain breaker does this with ease, maybe it's the tool?
the only trick I have to use to get it done is put a cloth on the grip and twist with more torque than with other chains. the other thing is that I try to align the pin perfectly and apllying small pressure to keep it in place before using the cloth.
the only trick I have to use to get it done is put a cloth on the grip and twist with more torque than with other chains. the other thing is that I try to align the pin perfectly and apllying small pressure to keep it in place before using the cloth.
#12
Your cog is slipping.
I've said it a million times - the little Rivoli chain tool is much better at dealing with a K710 than any Park chain tool.
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i also used my Crank Bros multi tool to break the 710SL, i was expecting it to be hard to do as i've read here, took it easy and the pin was off in no time.
#14
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I've said it a million times - don't start a bike repair if you need to ride that bike within the next three hours. Don't put air in the tires, don't wipe off the down tube.
The time it takes to finish a repair is inversely correlated to the number of hours between the start of the repair and the time the bike is next required.
The time it takes to finish a repair is inversely correlated to the number of hours between the start of the repair and the time the bike is next required.
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I used to have problems using my CT3, I kept trying and one day it just worked. It's worked ever since.
#TheChainToolThatCould
#TheChainToolThatCould
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Best chain tool I've used to date. Accepts Park Tools pins too. Not that this helps you much right away...
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Thanks, guys. After muscling it really hard (with some extra torque), I got the pin(s) out. No damage to the chain. I have it all synced up, and ready to go. Runs great! Now I should get a EAI cog...
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The first 20 minutes of the thread look really intense:
"Please help quickly!....I'd like to get this done really soon... I have somewhere to go in under 30 minutes..... I don't really have time for that right now."
"Please help quickly!....I'd like to get this done really soon... I have somewhere to go in under 30 minutes..... I don't really have time for that right now."