Vhee

Hey guys, I'm sure some of you may have seen my first post but I just ordered a kilo TT stripper 60cm (hope I didnt go too big) and I couldn't be more excited about it. However during my research that lead me to the Kilo I came across some posts that suggested things that needed to be replaced almost immediately. Now I'm not talking "oh I want some sweet colors Bro," more like I heard that I should get a new lock ring for the hub so I don't strip it out.

Main questions:

Where do you guys like to buy your parts. Whats the danscomp of FG?

Whats the right or best lock ring for me to get?

And what else do YOU feel should be upgraded, more for reliability, longevity, saftey, etc, not for cool points.

Thanks to all,

Vhee

Dannihilator

Replace as it wears out/breaks.

Face Palm

You might wanna just ride it and enjoy it first, and figure out what you personally want from any upgrades. You haven't even gotten it yet. If you need to buy something now, get some nice bar tape. If you're excited now, just be excited for trying it out when it arrives.

chenghiz

I dunno, if it still has the stamped aluminium lockring and cog that it used to have you might want to swap those out for steel ones.

diff

Most likely you will 1st want to concentrate where you touch the bike. Saddle, pedals, tape. Then from there you will most likely want to try out new bars and perhaps a different stem to help dial in the bike.

On the other hand you may be completely happy with how it feels out of the box. Just ride it and see.

AristoNYC

^ what this guy said. I don't have a Kilo, i have a WIndsor The Hour and I changed the pedals the moment I got the bike.

Vhee

Thanks guys, yeah I wasnt really looking to replace a bunch of already brand new parts I more just wanted the parts I have coming to last. Which is why I asked about the lock ring thing. I read that it was cheap and will result it me stripping my rear hub, which I really dont want to have to replace right away. Honestly I would love if I can put it together and not have to replace anything for a few 1000 miles haha.

Pinkbullet3

I haven't even touched my lockring since I got the Kilo back in October.

Nagrom_

It's probably seized by now.

Mine was seized out of the box. I had to use a heatgun, penetrating oil, and a 4 foot breaker bar on the end of my park SR-18 to get it off, because rotofixing didn't work either.

Good luck to you when you want to change it.

Vhee

how about the first question. where do you guys like to buy your parts? any Good for everything websites? stumbled on to citygrounds.com? opinions?

ddeadserious

https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...online-dealers

I personally stick to www.retro-gression.com, www.citygrounds.com, and www.treefortbikes.com most of the time, but have been happy with other dealers as well.

Spoonrobot 

Jensonusa and Niagara Cycle for any regular consumables.

bfloyd6969

Bens Cycles and Universal Cycles to add to the list.

MastaDizasta

Mine was seized as well out of the box.

As for changing anything on the kilo out of the box, 2 things I had to change about 1000 miles riding was the damn seat and tires. The tires kept getting flats around nyc and the seat just hurt after long bike rides.

IthaDan 

Pedals, seat, mentality. Going into this with wallet in hand is a great way to end up broke. It's a budget bike, it's a GREAT budget bike, so ride it and fix it, but save up for something seriously good instead of periodic upgrades.

yummygooey

how to rotofix lockring?

change the pedals, they suck.

Scrodzilla

I was thinking that same thing. Dahell Nagrom?

Nagrom_

And how the hell would I use a chain whip take a lockring off?


the cog was siezed, my bad. haha.

Pinkbullet3

48/16 fo lyfe, then.

Jk, thanks for the wishes.

monsterkidz

Make sure to check and grease/re-grease everything. Pretty much everything comes assembled without any grease whatsoever. (except for oddly enough crank bolts)

Soo__Fuego

I've purchased a frame and a saddle off them, no complaints.

Vhee

Thanks for all the input gents(and maybe ladies), know that it wont go to waste. Yeah I'm really not looking to make my budget bike a 1000$ bike, or I would have bought a 1000$ bike. I was mainly concerned about the extra bad parts(lock ring) wrecking my somewhat bad parts(stock hub) within the first couple hundred miles. I wont be upgrading wheelsets till the stocks turn to dust, but I would like them to last as long as possible and was just confirming the lockring issue.

Do I need to get a new Cog too? If so, what is the best cog and lockring set up I could get for the kilo? And if not the just what lockring?

thanks you helped me a bunch already. If anyone needs BMX advise let me know haha!

Vhee

Vhee

Thanks for the heads up. I've never ordered a complete bike, have always built from the ground up(but BMX), but my natural instinct is to take it all apart as soon as I get it anyways to make sure everything goes together as perfectly as it can.

How do you guys feel about Home truing wheels? As I said I used to be heavy into BMX and built a truing stand and would do my own and they would turn out pretty darn nice. However these big babies coming are a whole different animal haha.

sorry for the mass of questions and being long winded. I tend to get very passionate about things rather quickly haha.

Bike will be here monday! Planning on a nice 20 Mile break in ride!

seau grateau

Dura Ace cogs and lock-rings are pretty solid, but I think their cogs only go up to 16t. If you want something bigger, I've had good (and inexpensive) experiences with Soma and All-City cogs (running an All-City 17t right now actually).

Disclaimer- I've never ridden or inspected a Kilo, so I have no idea whether that stuff actually needs to be replaced.

Vhee

Thanks for the input, I'll probably go the dura ace route then just as insurance so I don't have to worry about the cog and lock ring(just everything else haha). I think the kilo comes stock with 16t so I'd opt for that since I'm new to FG and then change as I see fit.