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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

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Old 07-01-12, 10:01 PM   #1
skulls
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going nekkid frame, help me with the rest.

mods please close.

Last edited by skulls; 07-02-12 at 11:09 AM.
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Old 07-01-12, 10:25 PM   #2
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Budget?
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Old 07-01-12, 10:39 PM   #3
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The things you want are expensive.

Parts are naturally silver, so getting things painted black or blue costs more, and they are rarer so they are more expensive.

Ti is really really hard to work with so it is expensive.

Carbon requires a lot of high end production so it is expensive.
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Old 07-01-12, 10:40 PM   #4
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"I'm on a budget"
or
"I want a carbon fork and a Ti/ceramic BB"



Pick one.
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Old 07-01-12, 10:48 PM   #5
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The things you want are expensive.

Parts are naturally silver, so getting things painted black or blue costs more, and they are rarer so they are more expensive.

Ti is really really hard to work with so it is expensive.

Carbon requires a lot of high end production so it is expensive.
i see lots of all black parts every where and the blue would probably just be the chain and the wheels, which ive seen quite often in my limited aearching.
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Old 07-01-12, 10:52 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Nagrom_ View Post
"I'm on a budget"
or
"I want a carbon fork and a Ti/ceramic BB"



Pick one.
ive seen the tonkin bottom block for 90ish and carbon forks for 125ish, and ive seen wheel sets for 650, so to me the forks and the bb is middle of the road but maybe not.

i figure if im at only 200ish with those pieces i could be in the 500 range and still get some decent stuff.
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Old 07-01-12, 10:54 PM   #7
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also i just saw someone on the net that had a cannondale mono-arm fork on.his fixie, the fork had no shock just solid, said some modification needed to be done, i want that can anyone point me in the right direction?
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Old 07-01-12, 10:59 PM   #8
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Dude, you're all over the place.
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Old 07-01-12, 11:00 PM   #9
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Here's just about the cheapest you can expect to find any of this. Obviously there are deals, but this is the low end. Then things like shipping, tax and tools start creeping up on you too.

Assuming you have a frame fork and crank/bb, you need:

headset ($15)
bars ($25)
stem ($20)
tape ($15)
wheels ($100)
Tubes ($12)
Tires ($50)
Cog ($10)
Lockring ($10)
Chain ($10)
Pedals ($25)
Straps/foot retention ($15)
Seatpost ($15)
Seat ($15)

Total: $337.

Buy a complete bike, you can afford a build with "decent parts" for $500. And run a brake you halfwit.

Edit:
Forgot seatpost collar if needed, that's probably $10 by the time you get it in your hands. The lesson here is simple, you'll get nickel and dimed to death on a build if you're not patient (sure doesn't seem like it) and know what you're looking for.


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Originally Posted by skulls View Post
also i just saw someone on the net that had a cannondale mono-arm fork on.his fixie, the fork had no shock just solid, said some modification needed to be done, i want that can anyone point me in the right direction?
Came off a cannondale, poke around the recreational & urban section. Then google the model name for a take off. You need the fork and wheel. Maybe it's 700c, maybe not, that's your job. if it's 26", you can probably lace a 700c rim on it, but that's not that "slight" of a modification, and it'll eat up nearly all of your $500 budget. 1.5" steerer, good luck.
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Last edited by IthaDan; 07-01-12 at 11:07 PM.
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Old 07-01-12, 11:03 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by IthaDan View Post
Here's just about the cheapest you can expect to find any of this. Obviously there are deals, but this is the low end. Then things like shipping, tax and tools start creeping up on you too.

Assuming you have a frame fork and crank/bb, you need:

headset ($15)
bars ($25)
stem ($20)
tape ($15)
wheels ($100)
Tubes ($12)
Tires ($50)
Cog ($10)
Lockring ($10)
Chain ($10)
Pedals ($25)
Straps/foot retention ($15)
Seatpost ($15)
Seat ($15)

Total: $337.

Buy a complete, you can afford a build with "decent parts" for $500. And run a brake you halfwit.
thats exactly what i needed thank you!!! ill look into a brake :-)
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Old 07-01-12, 11:04 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Nagrom_ View Post
Dude, you're all over the place.


dont see how so, but i apologize
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Old 07-01-12, 11:05 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skulls View Post
dont see how so, but i apologize
one second you want a carbon fork, another you want a modified c'dale lefty, and you want a ceramic bottom bracket, while all on a budget.


good luck my friend.
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Old 07-01-12, 11:16 PM   #13
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one second you want a carbon fork, another you want a modified c'dale lefty, and you want a ceramic bottom bracket, while all on a budget.


good luck my friend.
super helpful, thanks.
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Old 07-01-12, 11:52 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IthaDan View Post
Here's just about the cheapest you can expect to find any of this. Obviously there are deals, but this is the low end. Then things like shipping, tax and tools start creeping up on you too.

Assuming you have a frame fork and crank/bb, you need:

headset ($15)
bars ($25)
stem ($20)
tape ($15)
wheels ($100)
Tubes ($12)
Tires ($50)
Cog ($10)
Lockring ($10)
Chain ($10)
Pedals ($25)
Straps/foot retention ($15)
Seatpost ($15)
Seat ($15)

Total: $337.

Buy a complete bike, you can afford a build with "decent parts" for $500. And run a brake you halfwit.

Edit:
Forgot seatpost collar if needed, that's probably $10 by the time you get it in your hands. The lesson here is simple, you'll get nickel and dimed to death on a build if you're not patient (sure doesn't seem like it) and know what you're looking for.




Came off a cannondale, poke around the recreational & urban section. Then google the model name for a take off. You need the fork and wheel. Maybe it's 700c, maybe not, that's your job. if it's 26", you can probably lace a 700c rim on it, but that's not that "slight" of a modification, and it'll eat up nearly all of your $500 budget. 1.5" steerer, good luck.
thanks for the helpful info, no trust me im.patient, but i needed to know this stuff so i can begin the search for it at the best possible price. if i wasnt patient id just buy a complete bike and be done with it.
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Old 07-02-12, 12:48 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by skulls View Post
if i wasnt patient id just buy a complete bike and be done with it.
Even though this is a much easier and cheaper way to start out, so that you can upgrade as you go, and ​learn about the bike, instead of just going all out without having any semblance of whats going on.
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Old 07-02-12, 12:55 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IthaDan View Post
Here's just about the cheapest you can expect to find any of this. Obviously there are deals, but this is the low end. Then things like shipping, tax and tools start creeping up on you too.

Assuming you have a frame fork and crank/bb, you need:

headset ($15)
bars ($25)
stem ($20)
tape ($15)
wheels ($100)
Tubes ($12)
Tires ($50)
Cog ($10)
Lockring ($10)
Chain ($10)
Pedals ($25)
Straps/foot retention ($15)
Seatpost ($15)
Seat ($15)

Total: $337.

Buy a complete bike, you can afford a build with "decent parts" for $500. And run a brake you halfwit.

Edit:
Forgot seatpost collar if needed, that's probably $10 by the time you get it in your hands. The lesson here is simple, you'll get nickel and dimed to death on a build if you're not patient (sure doesn't seem like it) and know what you're looking for.
Quote:
Originally Posted by skulls View Post
thats exactly what i needed thank you!!! ill look into a brake :-)
Skulls, IthaDan is right.

Please understand that once you buy all of that stuff, you'll have a bike that consists of the cheapest parts available...and you would have paid twice as much as a cheap bike costs to buy complete.

Nice bikes cost "nice bike" money.

Building a bike from scratch is ambitious. But, these projects usually take way more time and money than expected. A safe rule of thumb is to: Make a budget...then double it and you might be close to what it will cost you in the end.


See, as IthaDan mentions, what you aren't considering is:

- Shipping costs
- Labor costs to install some of the pieces that need tools
- Oh, and Tools
- Duplicates in the right size...because you will probably not know what size you need or prefer when starting with a blank piece of paper

This is why it's easier, faster, and cheaper to buy a complete bike, new or used.

Good luck.
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Last edited by carleton; 07-02-12 at 01:00 AM.
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Old 07-02-12, 07:14 AM   #17
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Don't forget to budget for tools.
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Old 07-02-12, 07:21 AM   #18
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Also, you're going to need tools too.
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Old 07-02-12, 07:54 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IthaDan View Post
Buy a complete bike, you can afford a build with "decent parts" for $500. And run a brake you halfwit.
Oops, I meant can't. For the $500 you'll have a nice frame, fork and cranks, but barely serviceable everything else.

E: buy tools. Or get to be a regular at your local coop

Seriouspost: If this is your first "fixie" you'd really do well to buy a complete bike that you can ride between wrenching on it. You'll have a much better sense of what works and what doesn't after some time in the saddle. Plus you can possibly offset the cost of some of the new parts by selling off the old ones. Parts are never cheaper than they are as part of a complete bike.
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Old 07-02-12, 08:55 AM   #20
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tools are not an issue i have a crap load of those, ive torn down motors and rebuilt them complly rebuilt.them. so tools are mechanical know how are not an issue. granted i will need to do some reading basic know how is there (i had to learn as i went building a motor) and from what i can see the only really special tool i need is the headset installer, which ive seen a diy one for the cheap.

i get the point about buying a complete but i aslo.dont see the point if im going to.replace all the parts anyways. and the completes i see come with crappy frames. so what i dont get is spending 400-500 to replace it allinstead of taking that money and initally start with parts i want.
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Old 07-02-12, 09:15 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skulls View Post
i get the point about buying a complete but i aslo.dont see the point if im going to.replace all the parts anyways. and the completes i see come with crappy frames. so what i dont get is spending 400-500 to replace it allinstead of taking that money and initally start with parts i want.
The Nashbar Nekkid - on the other hand - is a top-notch frame.

Guys, please don't feed the trolls.
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Old 07-02-12, 09:41 AM   #22
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The Nashbar Nekkid - on the other hand - is a top-notch frame.

Guys, please don't feed the trolls.
yes, thats why im only buying the frame and getting a nekkid, and building from there. Not sure how that makes me a troll.
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Old 07-02-12, 09:50 AM   #23
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Quote:
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tools are not an issue i have a crap load of those, ive torn down motors and rebuilt them complly rebuilt.them. so tools are mechanical know how are not an issue. granted i will need to do some reading basic know how is there (i had to learn as i went building a motor) and from what i can see the only really special tool i need is the headset installer, which ive seen a diy one for the cheap...
You'll need special purpose tools for more than just the headset, your car tools won't do the job. (e.g. chain whip, BB tool, chain breaker, lockring wrench, crank puller, etc.)
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Old 07-02-12, 10:04 AM   #24
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Crack rulez. Not sure how that makes me a troll.
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Old 07-02-12, 10:08 AM   #25
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You'll need special purpose tools for more than just the headset, your car tools won't do the job. (e.g. chain whip, BB tool, chain breaker, lockring wrench, crank puller, etc.)

see this is what im.looking for thank you. i dont really factor tools.into my budget because ill need them anyway whether ts a complete or not, i need the tools regardless.
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