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  1. #1
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    Upgrades for Dawes SST AL - Biggest Bang/Buck

    As the title says, I am going to buy a SST AL when they get back in stock and was wondering what people would consider to be upgrades with the biggest bang for the buck. I listed the stock components below for your reference. I am not looking to spend the cost of the bike again on upgrades - so replacing the wheels at this point is most likely out of the question. My thought is to replace the pedals, seat, brake pads, and possibly the seat post. Are there any other items that are cheap to replace that would make a big difference?

    Frame Advanced Aero-shaped Aluminum Alloy, Euro Bottom Bracket (English/Standard Threading), Water Bottle Mount, use adapter for rear fender, Rear Rack braze-ons
    (Rear Clearance is tight, not all fenders will fit)
    Fork Custom straight aero-section Carbon-fiber blades, 1.125 inch steerer tube
    Crankset FSA Vero3-pc Alloy 170mm on small, med, 172.5mm on large, 175mm on xlarge
    Euro Sealed Ball Bearing, 48T Alloy (1/8)
    Bottom Bracket Semi Cartridge Bearing ST
    Pedals Clip and Strap Road as shown
    Front Derailleur N/A
    Rear Derailleur N/A
    Shifters N/A
    Cassette/Freewheel 17T Freewheel (1/8)
    (purchase and attach your own 1/8 fixed cog (not included) to the other side of rear hub)
    Chain KMC Z410 Singlespeed Silver (1/2x1/8)
    Front / Rear Hub
    Formula High Flange Alloy, 32H, Sealed Bearing, Nutted
    Formula High Flange Alloy, 32H, Sealed Bearing Nutted,
    Fixed and Freewheel Flip Flop rear hub

    NOTE: 2013 Bikes will have some updated parts, may differ from pics

    (Some bikes may have a fixed cog installed with freewheel in parts box. Or you may have to purchase and attach your own 1/8 fixed cog)

    Spokes 14G Stainless Steel
    Rims
    Alex SUB Aero Profile Rim, 32H, Double Wall w/ CNC Sidewalls

    Tires Kenda K176 or Maxxis M202 (no choice), 700 X 25c
    Brake Set Tektro R530 Dual Pivot Caliper F&R
    Brake Levers Tektro, Alloy, F&R
    Headset 1.125 inch sealed ball bearing for threadless steerer
    Handlebar Aluminum Alloy Road, 26.0 Tradition bend
    Stem Welded/Forged Aluminum Alloy threadless 1 1/8 inch
    Tape/Grip Velo Cushion Wrap Foam
    Saddle Dawes Super Light w/ Custom Cover
    Seat Post Dawes Micro Adjust Alloy 27.2x300mm Black finish
    Seat Clamp Ultralite alloy - Bolt-on

  2. #2
    Veteran Bastard Scrodzilla's Avatar
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    You haven't even gotten the bike yet and you're thinking about upgrades? Try this:

    1. Get bike.
    2. Ride bike.
    3. Replace/upgrade parts as necessary.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scrodzilla View Post
    You haven't even gotten the bike yet and you're thinking about upgrades? Try this:


    1. Get bike.
    2. Ride bike.
    3. Replace/upgrade parts as necessary.

    Oh I know you're right, but it allows me to do something with my free time while I'm waiting for it to get in stock. You never know - I might just luck out with something better on CraigsList but it hasn't happened yet. I suppose I will have a stronger feeling about the bike and what I don't like once I've put some miles on it. I just wanted to see what others thought they needed to replace. Nothing wrong with doing a little research right?

  4. #4
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    Ok well I can tell you 1 thing that I know is a requirement on here...

    Track Dropz!

    /thread

  5. #5
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    Nothing needs replacement. Parts that need replacement are worn / old / broken. All the parts on that bike will be brand new.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Bat56's Avatar
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    If you can get M80s on sale I think they are the best bang for a buck.

    But really, anytime you can get a bang for a buck I say go for it.

  7. #7
    Senior Member
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    M80's for a buck!!??... count me in!

    But seriously, OP - I agree with Scrod. Wait for the bike to come and ride it. Then, you may need to make adjustments in fit issues like stem length, bar type/drop preference, and saddle fore/aft (which may designate the need for a setback or non-setback seatpost depending on what saddle you choose). Then spend your money to your heart's content!

  8. #8
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    Pedals and clips/straps. The stock ones just did not work for me. The handlebar also did not work for me.

  9. #9
    Senior Member SSbalt's Avatar
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    Replacing stuff as it breaks/wears out is a good idea. I wouldn't upgrade anything until I had a two things first...

    1. Quality Helmet.
    2. Quality lock.


    The bike works just fine when you get it(ideally), however you might as well ride it safely - and be able to keep it secure.

    After that, look at better quality pedals/foot retention. Those stock ones are flimsy so they're difficult to get your feet into, especially with bigger shoes(I'm partial to Retro-gression's V2's)

    The rest of your upgrades will likely just be **** you change because you "feel like it" and will have little impact on the performance of your bike. I'm on my 3rd saddle and none of them have been much more comfortable than the previous- I put track drops on because I think they look cool, now my back hurts when I ride more than 20 miles. I'll probably change my bars again in 6 months and replace my tires before I really have to for no good reason.

    I'll do this Mostly because my life is empty and I fill that void by shopping on the internet for things I don't need

    YMMV
    Last edited by SSbalt; 09-07-12 at 01:01 PM.
    I hate bikes

  10. #10
    Senior Member
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    Thanks for the advice. So it sounds like the only consensus is that the stock pedals are pretty crappy (which I've read a whole lot in other posts as well) so I guess I'll plan on replacing those and then ride it around to see what else I might need to change for fit/comfort.

    I already have a solid U-lock and cables as well as a couple different helmets. I have a mountain bike I've converted to a daily commuter, but I'm looking forward to converting it back to mountain again and use it for commuting only when the weather is crappy. The SST will be my fun fast bike that I'll use to commute in good weather.

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