hex style axels?
01-25-05, 11:44 AM
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hex style axels?
do these need to have track style drop outs? it would seem that they would always slide forward in old-school road drop-outs while tightening...
01-25-05, 04:53 PM
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Watchu talk'n bout?
You mean like when you are tightening the bolt, and you push the wrench towards the front of the bike....and that would have some pull on the axle to move forward? If you have that problem you can always just use partial turns to tighten the bolt, only twisting for the half of the rotation that pushes the bolt backwards. You do the same with any non-quick release axle/nuts.
That's not what you are asking...right?
You mean like when you are tightening the bolt, and you push the wrench towards the front of the bike....and that would have some pull on the axle to move forward? If you have that problem you can always just use partial turns to tighten the bolt, only twisting for the half of the rotation that pushes the bolt backwards. You do the same with any non-quick release axle/nuts.
That's not what you are asking...right?
01-25-05, 05:05 PM
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They have a metel tab that slots into the drop out on the non-hex side.
Only one side (the hex) rotates.
If that's what you are asking.
Only one side (the hex) rotates.
If that's what you are asking.
01-25-05, 09:25 PM
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hmm ok well i was lloking at some hubs that had hex thingies on both sides, they look like the iro hubs, well the part that the hex bolt scres into turn and the hex turns both twords the open part of the drop out, just seems that they wouldn't work in road drop-outs.
01-25-05, 09:40 PM
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If your talking about Phil Wood style, usually there's an external serated nut that the bolt snugs into, so when you crank it down, the nut stays put while you tighten... so it works on any style of dropout. From what i hear, it works good too.
01-25-05, 11:08 PM
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any decent track hub has serrations on the lock nuts and on the axle nuts,
it doesn't matter which way the drop out opening is oriented, because your probably never going to have the axles resting on the closed end of the drop out due to proper chain tension. also, when you tighten one side, it would want to slip towards the front, and on the other it would want to slip back, (you tighten to the right on each side) but the serrations prevent this on a properly spaced frame for your hub.
the phil woods style use an allen head bolt with a free to rotate serrated washed riveted on just like a true track nut. it works well,
to the point, no you don't need track specific dropouts for any track hub i've ever seen, they all work the same way.
it doesn't matter which way the drop out opening is oriented, because your probably never going to have the axles resting on the closed end of the drop out due to proper chain tension. also, when you tighten one side, it would want to slip towards the front, and on the other it would want to slip back, (you tighten to the right on each side) but the serrations prevent this on a properly spaced frame for your hub.
the phil woods style use an allen head bolt with a free to rotate serrated washed riveted on just like a true track nut. it works well,
to the point, no you don't need track specific dropouts for any track hub i've ever seen, they all work the same way.
01-26-05, 12:19 AM
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just PULL the wheel while you tighten the nuts. i put the bike on the wheels on the floor while sitting with the rear wheel between my legs and put a foot on the seattube while pulling the wheel with one hand and tightening the axlenut with the other. works every time.
