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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

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Old 11-18-12, 08:38 PM   #1
hermanthesturge
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Need advice

Hey I just got a trek frame and few accessories from friend in Texas and I need a few things and would like advice. I need a rear cog and there are so many options. Any good advice for brands or need for quality? I was just going to get the Halo 16 t for a 46 t gear?
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Old 11-18-12, 08:49 PM   #2
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46x16 sounds like a good starting gear. Brands don't really matter a whole lot. You can get them for a dollar here: http://www.retro-gression.com/product/one-dollar-cogs

Make sure to get a lockring too, and the tools to install them (or have someone else do it).
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Old 11-18-12, 09:10 PM   #3
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Depending on your experience/ strength, you might want to go for a 17 or 18t cog. 46x16 works out at around 75 Gear Inches, 48x18 is a solid novice starting point.
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Old 11-18-12, 09:40 PM   #4
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Depending on your experience/ strength, you might want to go for a 17 or 18t cog. 46x16 works out at around 75 Gear Inches, 48x18 is a solid novice starting point.
+1

I started commuting on a fixed gear bike this summer after the track bug bit me. I ride a Surly Ogre 29er mtb bike with fenders, panniers and 28c tires. I started in the 72 inch range then slowly worked my way down to 64 inch ('cuz I started too big) and shortened my cranks from 175's to 170's ('Cuz its easier to spin and the cranks were stiffer). I just now went up to a 66 inch ratio. I'm 240ish and am probably in the 280-300 range with bike and gear - not sure how much of a difference that makes though.
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Old 11-18-12, 10:55 PM   #5
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Thanks. Figure I will would try the 17t from the dollar cog'er.
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Old 11-19-12, 07:10 AM   #6
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frame and few accessories
By accessories do you mean things like wheels and handlebars?
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Old 11-19-12, 07:32 AM   #7
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Old 11-19-12, 08:14 AM   #8
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Brands don't really matter a whole lot.
I have to disagree. I've had bad chain slip in my cycling past. Get a good chain, get a good cog, and get a good chainring. I recommend this http://www.retro-gression.com/produc...enger-crankset
http://www.retro-gression.com/produc...01-track-chain
http://www.retro-gression.com/produc...-ace-track-cog
http://www.retro-gression.com/product/dura-ace-lockring
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Old 11-19-12, 08:17 AM   #9
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I swear, bfssfg is the biggest retrogression ad.

Are you also from texas or someplace really flat? If you don't have to deal with hills 46/16 should be fine
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Old 11-19-12, 08:43 AM   #10
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I've had bad chain slip in my cycling past.
What does this even mean?
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Old 11-19-12, 08:52 AM   #11
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What does this even mean?
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Old 11-19-12, 12:39 PM   #12
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I swear, bfssfg is the biggest retrogression ad.

Are you also from texas or someplace really flat? If you don't have to deal with hills 46/16 should be fine
When someone starts selling $0.75 cogs I will be whistling a different tune entirely.
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Old 11-19-12, 04:07 PM   #13
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What does this even mean?
It means I've had my chain make a lot of noise and slip the tiniest bit from having cheapo drivetrain components.
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Old 11-19-12, 04:09 PM   #14
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It means I've had my chain make a lot of noise and slip the tiniest bit from having cheapo drivetrain components.
uh.... I ride with a friend that has some no name cog, some 50 ebay crankset and a 6 dollar kmc chain, and his drivetrain is silent.

Maybe your **** was just worn down.

edit: nvm, he has a DA lockring, that probably fixes it all.
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No offense but you're an idiot.
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Old 11-19-12, 04:27 PM   #15
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Haha, look I'm saying I had a cheapo set up and it didn't work out for me. I'm not saying that will always ​be the case. I just have first hand experience.
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Old 11-19-12, 04:29 PM   #16
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It means I've had my chain make a lot of noise and slip the tiniest bit from having cheapo drivetrain components.
When you are riding? Or when you are no-handed track standing? I mean, that could be your problem right there.

And what you are describing is not slip. Even if it was, "bad chain slip" is not "slip the tiniest bit."
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Old 11-19-12, 04:33 PM   #17
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uggh, this is never going to end.

The chain would slip every time my right crank arm starting going down. It was enough to make a loud noise and for me to feel it and be distracted by it.
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Old 11-19-12, 05:41 PM   #18
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Dude, chains don't "slip" unless your drivetrain is worn out beyond being useable or your chain tension is ridiculously loose.
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Old 11-19-12, 07:50 PM   #19
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My parts were all new and right tension. My cog was stamped, and probably so was the chainring.
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Old 11-19-12, 08:11 PM   #20
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Old 11-19-12, 08:11 PM   #21
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Whatever you say.
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Old 11-19-12, 11:31 PM   #22
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By accessories do you mean things like wheels and handlebars?
yeah, wheels and bars I just need seat post, cog and chain, and tools. Chain seem like there is a small upgrade with price change. I was told that the chain is important to find quality.
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Old 11-19-12, 11:53 PM   #23
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My parts were all new and right tension. My cog was stamped, and probably so was the chainring.
How's that possible, unless you were using the wrong size chain on the cog and/or chainring.
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Old 11-20-12, 11:28 AM   #24
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It's funny how no one believes me. I had cheap parts. It bit me in the ass. End of story.

Maybe I had a bad chain or something, I don't know. All I do know is when I upgraded every part in my drive train the problem went away.
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Old 11-20-12, 11:48 AM   #25
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Jess, as people who have much more experience than you, we are telling you that what you're claiming is physically impossible unless something was either damaged or not set up correctly - cheap parts or not.

If you're not careful, EpicSchwinn will shun you and refuse to answer any more of your questions.
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