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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

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Old 12-03-12, 09:35 PM   #1
Tblizzard
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Converting this Giant Perigee to Fixed Gear

Hello, I recently decided to try fixed gear cycling, so I went down to a pawn shop and picked up this Giant Perigree for $100. Is this bike a good candidate for conversion?

Thanks for your time.

http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/170...1203191836.jpg

http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/331...1203191851.jpg
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Old 12-03-12, 09:40 PM   #2
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Ya.

Use a file or dremel to remove some of the material from the dropouts so you have the ability to move the axle back further if needed to set proper chain tension.

Get a rear wheel from Velomine or Wabi and you should be set with a decent fixed conversion for around $200.
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Old 12-03-12, 09:54 PM   #3
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Why convert? That bike looks like a pretty sweet bike as it is. A lot of people make fixed conversions out of bikes that are too far gone for anything else. Why not ride it as is and save up for a nice prebuilt fixed gear. It will more than likely save you a lot of time and money.
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Old 12-03-12, 10:29 PM   #4
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Yeah it is a pretty nice bike. I really want to give fixed gear cycling a try and this was the only road bike I could find. My only concern is the drop out because it's so small. Will I get enough chain tension even if I dremel it a bit?
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Old 12-03-12, 10:45 PM   #5
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With a dremel you should be good. If you try that and it's still not enough, you could use a half link chain
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Old 12-03-12, 10:50 PM   #6
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If you can remove the material inside that reinforced ridge you should have enough to play with. But it's going to be slow and you need to be careful. Screw it up and your wheel will sit crooked.

Do a search for magic ratio.

Search sheldon brown for filing a solid axle and for cutting a quick release axle flush with the locknuts. I've done both of those with some success.
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Old 12-03-12, 10:56 PM   #7
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I think I could handle dremeling the drop out but I don't think I'm skilled enough to go beyond that. Although the challenge is enticing.
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Old 12-03-12, 11:23 PM   #8
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Measure out how much you need, then mark it. Do the same with the other side. Also measure twice cut once.
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Old 12-04-12, 02:45 AM   #9
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Why convert? That bike looks like a pretty sweet bike as it is. A lot of people make fixed conversions out of bikes that are too far gone for anything else. Why not ride it as is and save up for a nice prebuilt fixed gear. It will more than likely save you a lot of time and money.
Why ask why?
absolutely nothing wrong with converting a frame.
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Old 12-04-12, 07:46 AM   #10
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It's not that complicated, after you finish doing a hardness test on the dropout you should only need to file the extra material up to the lip. Here's an example of what you're dealing with:



Just make the driveside dropout the same as the non-driveside. This will allow you to get a good amount of spacing to move the wheel around and get tension. This is a simple, 5-minute job.

Last edited by Spoonrobot; 12-04-12 at 07:52 AM.
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Old 12-04-12, 07:53 AM   #11
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If you can remove the material inside that reinforced ridge you should have enough to play with. But it's going to be slow and you need to be careful. Screw it up and your wheel will sit crooked.
Unless the OP cuts the dropout in half, there really isn't any risk of "screwing it up". The wheel will only sit crooked if you bolt it in crooked, just like on a frame with rear-facing dropouts.
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Old 12-04-12, 12:05 PM   #12
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You can screw it up by making two 10mm slots that do not align with each other. If you do this, the only thing that can be done it to open each slot so that they (or one) is wider than 10mm. And yeah, if you can do this, you can get the wheel aligned but it's a batch because you are working against two axes. As opposed to one axis if you have a 10mm slot.

So, you want to take this and remove the dark material:



But what if you do this, and create a 10mm slot that slants up:



And then on the other side you do this, creating a 10mm slot that slants down:



The only solution is to wallow out both sides, making a big fat drop out. What I called screwed up, some people might not:

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Old 12-04-12, 12:17 PM   #13
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BFSSFG - overcomplicating the uncomplicated.
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Old 12-04-12, 12:18 PM   #14
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Rockwell hardness test?
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Old 12-04-12, 12:40 PM   #15
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derp
Jesus christ. "The only solution?"

Or you could just do it properly; using the raised edge as a guide. It's a dropout, not vagina. You don't just throw the file in there and jam it around until you're exhausted.

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Old 12-04-12, 12:42 PM   #16
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Jesus christ. "The only solution?"

Or you could just do it properly; using the raised edge as a guide. It's a dropout, not vagina. You don't just throw the file in there and jam it around until you're exhausted.

Thanks for the sig, mang.
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Old 12-04-12, 12:43 PM   #17
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Jesus ****ing Christ.
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Old 12-04-12, 01:18 PM   #18
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BFSSFG - overcomplicating the uncomplicated.
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Old 12-04-12, 01:43 PM   #19
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I apologize, I forget my place.

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Old 12-04-12, 07:10 PM   #20
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Thanks for all the input everyone. What type of file would be best for this task?
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Old 12-04-12, 07:15 PM   #21
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A Dremel will be the easiest way to go about it but if you choose to file it by hand, get yourself a round file that fits nicely inside where you'll be removing metal - slightly smaller than the actual axle so you have a little room to work.

As Spoonrobot said, use the raised edge as a guide and don't rush it.
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Old 12-04-12, 07:33 PM   #22
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And be sure to consult the above diagrams.
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Old 12-04-12, 07:34 PM   #23
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BFSSFG : We know drama
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Old 12-04-12, 07:35 PM   #24
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Old 12-04-12, 07:52 PM   #25
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that bike is pretty sweet as it is
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