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  1. #1
    well lubricated Mr. Joker's Avatar
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    ..
    Last edited by Mr. Joker; 06-23-05 at 09:32 AM.

  2. #2
    無くなった HereNT's Avatar
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    I'd probably suggest a dremel over a hacksaw.

    But that's only if I was going to suggest that you do it at all.

    Which I'm not.

    As far as it only being 10 bucks, yeah, that's the cost of your frame, but how much is it going to cost when the break and you go splut on the pavement or under a car?

  3. #3
    Retrogrouch in Training bostontrevor's Avatar
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    Ummm... Ever think about trying to build it up first and see if what you have is good enough? I'd be inclined to go so far as to replace a link with a half link to see if that made a diff before I went at the dropouts with any implement. Even then, I would use some sort of rotary tool with a barrel grinder as HereNT suggests. But probably you'd just be best served by making sure that it's actually a problem before you go solving it.

  4. #4
    cripple gally99's Avatar
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    seems to me there'd have to be a whole lot of extra metal in the dropout for this to be a vaguely good idea...

  5. #5
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    I have a World Sport and I think there is plenty of room to file down. I'm guessing that your frame is like mine with a nice long non-drive side dropout and a filled in drive side dropout? I tired filing, but it takes a lot of time, so I just went with a half link.

  6. #6
    Senior Member filtersweep's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhattTyre
    I have a World Sport and I think there is plenty of room to file down. I'm guessing that your frame is like mine with a nice long non-drive side dropout and a filled in drive side dropout? I tired filing, but it takes a lot of time, so I just went with a half link.

    A friend has a similar frame... why they were built that way (with uneven drops) is beyond me. We started dremeling, but after a few asploding bits, we are going to drill it out first, then dremel.

  7. #7
    Retrogrouch in Training bostontrevor's Avatar
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    This came up recently elsewhere around these parts.

    The NDS was a "non-adjustable" dropout. You only needed one with reasonable depth to be able to properly center the wheel.

  8. #8
    Chronic Tai Shan ofofhy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bostontrevor
    This came up recently elsewhere around these parts.

    The NDS was a "non-adjustable" dropout. You only needed one with reasonable depth to be able to properly center the wheel.
    I was thinking of this yesterday... wouldn't that result in the hub being cocked in the drops? Or I am I thinking of this wrongly?
    From Craig's List: IF its a singlespeed that means----all the other parts are broken cut off and dumped...dont buy singlespeeds, the bikes will make your balls fall off

    * no -- it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests

  9. #9
    Retrogrouch in Training bostontrevor's Avatar
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    Yeah, assuming that the axle, rim, and bike frame are all factory-true. If any othe these is bent out of true, well you're gonna need some wiggle room.

  10. #10
    Chronic Tai Shan ofofhy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bostontrevor
    Yeah, assuming that the axle, rim, and bike frame are all factory-true. If any othe these is bent out of true, well you're gonna need some wiggle room.
    True, and I guess Schwinn never really intened these bikes to be fixed, so you would only really need to adjust for manufacturing tolerances.
    From Craig's List: IF its a singlespeed that means----all the other parts are broken cut off and dumped...dont buy singlespeeds, the bikes will make your balls fall off

    * no -- it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests

  11. #11
    dead mileage techone's Avatar
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    I had dropouts like that on my first conversion. Drilled it out to match the nondrive side, never had a problem with it. My neighbors did tho, since I was doing it at like- 3am!
    un por ciento...

  12. #12
    Senior Member filtersweep's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bostontrevor
    Yeah, assuming that the axle, rim, and bike frame are all factory-true. If any othe these is bent out of true, well you're gonna need some wiggle room.
    Which leads to the question: why do modern road bikes have vertical drops?

  13. #13
    Retrogrouch in Training bostontrevor's Avatar
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    My first guess is because it makes it impossible for the wheel to slide around or for the dropouts to get bent. Of course if anything else is messed up, you're screwed, but then bikes are built less and less for serviceability, ya know?

  14. #14
    Team Beer Cynikal's Avatar
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    I've always assumed it was due to closer shifter tolerances. If the wheel is on only one location you can design a more precese shifer. But as I said I am assuming. I kinda wish my road bike had them today when my wheel kept slipping 13 miles from home.
    I'm not one for fawning over bicycles, but I do believe that our bikes communicate with us, and what this bike is saying is, "You're an idiot." BikeSnobNYC

  15. #15
    Retrogrouch in Training bostontrevor's Avatar
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    True. Without thinking too hard about it, it may be necessary for tightly indexed shifting, for example.

  16. #16
    (Grouchy)
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    vertical dropouts also make it easier to pull the rear wheel out of the frame. this in turn makes wheel swaps (if a rider gets a flat) mid-race much faster. easy in, easy out, no mucking about trying to center the wheel.

  17. #17
    like, really sloppy sloppy robot's Avatar
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    correct me if im wrong here.. but if you want to super bike geek.. thats why they are called dropouts.. verttical dropouts is redundant..did i spell that right.. track ends are not dropouts.. nothing drops out.. im not trying tto be a dick and i may be wrong.. i just dont want the old dude at the shop snickering at you and making you feel bad..cause i learned this from the know it all old dude...

  18. #18
    Retrogrouch in Training bostontrevor's Avatar
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    Umm... yeah, but horizontal dropouts aren't track ends. They're dropouts. Track ends are.. well, track ends.

  19. #19
    seeking simple
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    Quote Originally Posted by ofofhy
    True, and I guess Schwinn never really intened these bikes to be fixed, so you would only really need to adjust for manufacturing tolerances.
    Or they never intended to manufacture perfectly straight frames...

  20. #20
    troglodyte ryan_c's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by schwinnbikelove
    Or they never intended to manufacture perfectly straight frames...
    to hear that from you is blasphemy!

  21. #21
    seeking simple
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  22. #22
    Caffeinated. Camel's Avatar
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    Just a thought, but build a wheel with an Eno hub.

  23. #23
    Senior Member formulaben's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Camel
    Just a thought, but build a wheel with an Eno hub.
    I did the same. Some may look at it as the east way out, but I was able to use a new frame with vertical drops. Wheel installation is a breeze! I highly recommend it if it suits your needs. FWIW, my LBS built up my wheels with Velocity Deep V rims and 32H/14GA spokes. It's a bulletproof setup.

  24. #24
    Ч
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    === o^`o Ч's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Camel
    Just a thought, but build a wheel with an Eno hub.
    I think the guy was talking about a $10 thrift store bike. That Eno hub is worth 15.9 thrift shop bikes.

  25. #25
    Caffeinated. Camel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by <ETH><ETH>
    I think the guy was talking about a $10 thrift store bike. That Eno hub is worth 15.9 thrift shop bikes.
    The guy was also talking about taking a hacksaw to the dropouts.

    Shattered teeth, wired jaw bone, broken femur, facial plastic surgery...several hundred thrift store bikes-when the hacked drops fail at speed.

    Eno hubbed wheel...priceless.

    Just a thought.

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