Last edited by fixie.ninja; 10-31-07 at 03:50 AM.
these would probably give you the additional 4mm you will need:
not cheap though. for that money you could get another bike boom 10-speed
asleep at the wheel
You really need a drop bolt todo this well.
If you know someone who can fab metal they can fairly easy make you a home made 'drop bolt' as see on Sheldon's brown website.
If not some BMX brakes (ie Tektro) have really long reaches and some of the old centrepull styles also may work. But obviously you'll be giving up braking power here as neither type is particularly strong.
why do/would you need to switch to 700 wheels anyway?
Direct Hit Not Required
get a piece of pipe that will fit snugly inside the steerer (?... what the hell's the tube at the top of the fork called?)
drill it so you can throw a bolt through the original hole for the brake, then drill it just below where it comes out of the fork...
you'll have to thread a nut onto the bolt for the brake before it connects to the pipe so it will clear the front of the forks...
i'm sure those things sheldon sells are great, but i just don't trust something that only has one contact point to handle any kind of bendy pressure...
and i know one reason to switch to 700s- you can get tires that don't take a **** in a month...
You can get a pair of Kogswell Long Reach brakes for ~$30
Wouldn't 700c wheels make the brakes work even better? I think I maybe totally off but since 700 is bigger wouldnt the rim therefore be higher up in the brake? Like if you put a 26" wheel in the brakes would be far away and than a 27" rim would be closer and 700 even closer. Again I maybe way off and don't have a 27" rim in front of me to test my theory so I may be wrong but thats the way I see it.
8mm diameter, 4mm radius difference.