ajregester

I apologize, as this isn't exactly a singlespeed question, but I figured this would be the best place for this.

I am building a 1x9 setup for my wife who is quite short at 5'2". I have found a 160mm crankset that I think should work well for her, and I am trying to find a chainring that's either a 34 or 36 tooth without all the machining and ramps of a multispeed system to avoid losing the chain. The crankset has a bcd of 110.

Jaytron

https://bit.ly/ZPLIjK

gregjones

34 or 36t will be in the BMX/Mountain gear range. You might have the best luck looking at those suppliers.

gregjones

Nevermind.

ajregester

Jaytron - thanks for the resource. I had found it previously, but saw this at the bottom:

* Our 94bcd,104bcd and 110bcd x 34/35/36t chainrings are made with a 2.2-2.3mm thick stock plate and work best with 5-8 speed chains. Many folks are using these on 9 speed drivetrains but this can often results in a "tight fit" right out of the box (This will loosen up and shifting should improve after the chain breaks in). The 110bcd 38-50t and all 130bcd chainrings are machine finished to have a 2.1mm tooth thickness and thus work fine with 9spd chains.

That last sentence worried me, as it sounds like anything less than their 38t 110bcd will not work with a 9 speed chain. Is this the case?

gregjones

This thread might intrest you:
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...nkset-question

ajregester

You da man gregjones!

hueyhoolihan

you might be making this more difficult than it has to be.

IME, having run a single front chainring on all my bikes (seven at last count) since 1995 and having ridden probably 10-20 thousand miles, and using any and all chainrings ramped, pinned, chopped, chipped, channeled, and slammed . i've never had any type of derailing problem that wasn't a result of a poorly tensioned chain. even on those bikes had a rear derailleur (8 speed).

there are only two things i look at. is it as narrow or narrower than my chain, and is the BCD correct? if so, it works for me.

OTOH, this is the internet, so i may full of it.

Scrodzilla

If it's a 1x9, why are you going with such a low tooth count in the front?

Steev

That's what's on my MTB, works well for the terrain around here.
OP, try this.
https://www.cambriabike.com/Azonic-Ch...-110-X-36T.asp

hairnet

This

ajregester

@scrodzilla - it's for the wife who's not exactly an avid cyclist. I was considering maybe going up to a 36 or 38. I'm trying to keep it simple but still allow for some easy gearing for hills. Also, I will be probably using road cassette in the back, a 12-28. This is basically a path bike.

Thanks for the replies!

gregjones

Cheryl's bike is a 1X8. I have her limited to the lowest 6 cogs---15, 17, 20, 23, 26 and 30 with a 36 chainring. We live in the bottom of a bowl, everywhere from the house is uphill. Her bike is for physical therapy and recovery. That's why it's geared so low--building stamina not strength. On MUPs you might be able to go higher if there are not any very large hills.

Use a calculator to compare different rings: https://home.earthlink.net/~mike.sherman/shift.html

Insert numbers off of something you know----your bike. You'll get an idea of how the different relationships compare to each other. Then enter her figures and options to see how each is different from one another.

IthaDan 

This is exactly why coops exist. Any MTB crankset earlier than about 1994 will have the ring, and about 95% of those won't have ramps or pins.