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  1. #1
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    My Fixed Gear Build. Need Help

    What's up. Converting a 87' Panasonic Sport DX into a fixed gear. Due to vertical dropouts I'm getting a WI Eccentric rear hub. Shooting for a gear ratio around 42:15 or 44:16.

    Anyways, on to the questions. I'm currently borrowing a friend's fixed gear with clips and I love riding with clips. For my bike I was thinking about crankbrother's candy because I heard that with the eggbeaters you get a pretty bad hotspot. Any other pedal recommendations? Straps and toe clips? Why?

    Also, with the drivetrain. I have some crankarms that the LBS gave me for FREE (the best price). They're 170mm. Is that going to be scary taking corners? I feel like I'll make contact with the ground and eat it.

    Also also, skidding with clipless? I've tried (Don't know how to skid) and I feel like I'm going to break the clips or something... Does it work?

    And last but not least, do I need a WI lockring for my WI cog and hub or can I go another, cheaper route? A $20 lockring seems dumb.


    Oh yeah! MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!
    Last edited by Matthius; 12-25-13 at 02:32 PM. Reason: It's Christmas time

  2. #2
    Riding like its 1990 thenomad's Avatar
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    NbunNever had a problem with eggbeaters, hotspots are more related to shoes. The candies are better imo because they have a flat portion for when you miss a clip in. The eggbeatrrs can rotate and spin unde r foot. Clipless is the way to go if you can bring a chabge of shoe all the time. If you go places all day clips and straps with narrow flats are probably best.
    My blog about rides, bikes and builds: ridesgoneby.blogspot.com

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by thenomad View Post
    NbunNever had a problem with eggbeaters, hotspots are more related to shoes. The candies are better imo because they have a flat portion for when you miss a clip in. The eggbeatrrs can rotate and spin unde r foot. Clipless is the way to go if you can bring a chabge of shoe all the time. If you go places all day clips and straps with narrow flats are probably best.
    Are they easy to get out of? I'm using these (<- That's a link) now and they get stuck sometimes. I stood for 30 seconds today trying to unclip my left foot... smh

  4. #4
    Senior Member DanBell's Avatar
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    You can get clipless shoes that are more walkable, like the Chromes and DZRs, but the more flexible sole (better for walking) might lead to hotspots when using a smaller pedal like eggbeaters. I use Shimano SPDs like the ones you linked to with Mavic mountain bike shoes. The shoes are comfortable enough to walk around in a bit, definitely fine for sitting in a bar or restaurant for a couple of hours, but the sole is a bit stiffer than more casual-looking bike shoes.

    The pedals you linked to should have a tension adjustment screw on them. Perhaps this is cranked up too high on the left side leading to your issues clipping out?

  5. #5
    Senior Member gregjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matthius View Post
    Are they easy to get out of? I'm using these (<- That's a link) now and they get stuck sometimes. I stood for 30 seconds today trying to unclip my left foot... smh
    Quote Originally Posted by DanBell View Post
    The pedals you linked to should have a tension adjustment screw on them. Perhaps this is cranked up too high on the left side leading to your issues clipping out?
    ^^^This.^^^

    Also, you might try the Multi Release SH56 clips. Or wait, they will get easier as they wear.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by DanBell View Post
    You can get clipless shoes that are more walkable, like the Chromes and DZRs, but the more flexible sole (better for walking) might lead to hotspots when using a smaller pedal like eggbeaters. I use Shimano SPDs like the ones you linked to with Mavic mountain bike shoes. The shoes are comfortable enough to walk around in a bit, definitely fine for sitting in a bar or restaurant for a couple of hours, but the sole is a bit stiffer than more casual-looking bike shoes.

    The pedals you linked to should have a tension adjustment screw on them. Perhaps this is cranked up too high on the left side leading to your issues clipping out?
    Quote Originally Posted by gregjones View Post
    ^^^This.^^^

    Also, you might try the Multi Release SH56 clips. Or wait, they will get easier as they wear.
    These SPDs are on my temporary bike. If I go with Candy's and some Truk or Kursk Pros will the cleat hit the ground when I walk?

  7. #7
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    Also, what about my 170mm crankarms? Too long?

  8. #8
    Senior Member Huffandstuff's Avatar
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    Never had the chrome shoes but I know my DZR's the cleat wouldl still hit the ground when I walked around in it though it usually wasn't too noticeable. I ended up getting a real SPD shoe after a while because they DZR's were too soft and got annoying when climbing.

    170 might be fine just depends on how hard you plan on cornering.

  9. #9
    Veteran Racer TejanoTrackie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matthius View Post
    Also, what about my 170mm crankarms? Too long?
    Grind 5mm off the ends of your crankarms. problem solved.

    But, seriously, it's less important than the fact that you're converting a road frame that will have a lower bottom bracket than a proper track frame.

    Also, clipless pedals will give you better cornering clearance than traditional cage pedals with clips and straps.

    You just need to be aware of your cornering limitations to avoid pedal strike.
    What, Me Worry? - Alfred E. Neuman

    Quote Originally Posted by Dcv View Post
    I'd like to think i have as much money as brains.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by TejanoTrackie View Post
    Grind 5mm off the ends of your crankarms. problem solved.

    But, seriously, it's less important than the fact that you're converting a road frame that will have a lower bottom bracket than a proper track frame.

    Also, clipless pedals will give you better cornering clearance than traditional cage pedals with clips and straps.

    You just need to be aware of your cornering limitations to avoid pedal strike.

    Ah! Didn't know that the bottom bracket is lower. Alright, I'll just be careful cornering. It shouldn't be that big of an issue, especially if I just carry two pairs of shoes with me. Normal shoes and proper cycling shoes.

    So with stiff cycling shoes I won't have to worry about hotspots right?

  11. #11
    Veteran Racer TejanoTrackie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matthius View Post
    So with stiff cycling shoes I won't have to worry about hotspots right?
    Shoes are the one item that you should only buy and try on at a store. Even stiff cycling shoes can be uncomfortable if they don't fit right. Hotspots only occur with soft soled shoes that allow the pedal parts to dig into your foot.
    Last edited by TejanoTrackie; 12-25-13 at 06:25 PM.
    What, Me Worry? - Alfred E. Neuman

    Quote Originally Posted by Dcv View Post
    I'd like to think i have as much money as brains.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by TejanoTrackie View Post
    Shoes are the one item that you should only buy and try on at a store. Even stiff cycling should can be uncomfortable if they don't fit right. Hotspots only occur with soft soled shoes that allow the pedal parts to dig into your foot.
    Oh okay, got it. Tomorrow I'm making a run to the LBS and barraging them with questions. Thanks for the ideas and answers!

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matthius View Post
    Also, what about my 170mm crankarms? Too long?
    No, they're absolutely fine. Unless you're aggressively pedaling through some insanely sharp corners (which you never will), it won't ever be an issue. The difference between 165 and 170 is minuscule anyway. Crank arm length is more a function of what feels best to the rider for the task at hand, rather than adjusting for any geometric constraints.

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    I smashed one of a pair of candys once. The spring would slip out of engagement. They repaired well with a shim. You can kind of ride them if you go out with normal shoes but I think there's a little platform you can snap into some eggbeaters.

    You can wear spd compatible shoes all day without a problem, provided you can find a style you can live with. They just ride so much better than any toeclip or other strap system I ever tried.

    Walking is fine even in fairly stiff-soled spd shoes provided you can find a style you can live with. The main drawback is that you sound like a tap dancer unless you get ones with a fairly deep sole to enclose the cleat, but those don't seem "in" with the FG crowd. If you've tried a good set of clipless, though, there simply may be no going back.

    Eggbeaters do kind of go well with the bare, skinny look of an FG.

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    Quote Originally Posted by garage sale GT View Post
    I smashed one of a pair of candys once. The spring would slip out of engagement. They repaired well with a shim. You can kind of ride them if you go out with normal shoes but I think there's a little platform you can snap into some eggbeaters.

    You can wear spd compatible shoes all day without a problem, provided you can find a style you can live with. They just ride so much better than any toeclip or other strap system I ever tried.

    Walking is fine even in fairly stiff-soled spd shoes provided you can find a style you can live with. The main drawback is that you sound like a tap dancer unless you get ones with a fairly deep sole to enclose the cleat, but those don't seem "in" with the FG crowd. If you've tried a good set of clipless, though, there simply may be no going back.

    Eggbeaters do kind of go well with the bare, skinny look of an FG.
    I agree about the Eggbeaters, they just seem really solid and simple. I really don't mind just carrying an extra pair of normal shoes around for when I ride either. Does anyone have first hand experience with Eggbeaters? I know thenomad said that Candy's might be the route to go because there's a little bit of platform, but I like the idea of 4 sides to clip into.

  16. #16
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    I'm using eggbeaters on my fixie. No problem skidding and no problems at all.
    http://www.pedalroom.com/members/rms13

  17. #17
    Riding like its 1990 thenomad's Avatar
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    you wont notice any difference with the candies or the eggbeaters for clipping. When you step down on the pedal the body rotates and the tangs rotate to engage the cleat If you put your foot too far back they'll rotate to grab the cleat. The problem was when I was unclipped but needed to start off the pedal can rotate on the sole of the shoe. With spd you have to put the cleat in the right spot, but really you get used either rather quickly.
    If your cleat on the shoe is not really tight then the cleat will rotate when you are trying to unclip, that can make it very difficult.

    I never had trouble with spd and the engagement can feel more positive than CB, which some like.
    The cleats on the CB wear faster and when unclipping becomes difficult you replace to new cleats. After about a year of daily commuting I noticed wear. Its easier to unclip on CB to me. There is a lot more float which I like for my knees. (SPD have float too)

    In reality you are fine on the pedals you have, maybe money is better spent somewhere else?

    FYI - I've been riding clipless since the 90s. You'll get used to whatever you have. Some are better in small ways than others. I settled on CB for mud/dirt clearance in cyclocross, then just put them on all my bikes so I can use the same shoes. Have Look KEO for road use but prefer my walkable shoes lately.
    My blog about rides, bikes and builds: ridesgoneby.blogspot.com

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by thenomad View Post
    you wont notice any difference with the candies or the eggbeaters for clipping. When you step down on the pedal the body rotates and the tangs rotate to engage the cleat If you put your foot too far back they'll rotate to grab the cleat. The problem was when I was unclipped but needed to start off the pedal can rotate on the sole of the shoe. With spd you have to put the cleat in the right spot, but really you get used either rather quickly.
    If your cleat on the shoe is not really tight then the cleat will rotate when you are trying to unclip, that can make it very difficult.

    I never had trouble with spd and the engagement can feel more positive than CB, which some like.
    The cleats on the CB wear faster and when unclipping becomes difficult you replace to new cleats. After about a year of daily commuting I noticed wear. Its easier to unclip on CB to me. There is a lot more float which I like for my knees. (SPD have float too)

    In reality you are fine on the pedals you have, maybe money is better spent somewhere else?

    FYI - I've been riding clipless since the 90s. You'll get used to whatever you have. Some are better in small ways than others. I settled on CB for mud/dirt clearance in cyclocross, then just put them on all my bikes so I can use the same shoes. Have Look KEO for road use but prefer my walkable shoes lately.

    Thanks for the great response! I learned a lot. (Not being sarcastic, I actually did)

    The spds are on a bike that someone is loaning to me, not on my build, so I have to buy pedals either way. I have redline bmx pedals now, but those wont cut it.

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    JFTR I put a lot of wear and tear on some unbranded SPD copies too. Maybe my way of clipping in is just hard on pedals.

  20. #20
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    Matthias, have you already bought your eccentric WI hub? If not I have one I'd sell you for a deal - very few miles, excellent condition, had my LBS build it up new: WI eccentric hub (135mm spacing), lockring, 17t WI cog, DT competition spokes, and Deep V in non-machined reflective black (link).

    Shoot me a pm if you're interested or would like pics. I converted my Cervelo road bike but then just ended up getting a true track frame not long after..

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ohbejoyful View Post
    Matthias, have you already bought your eccentric WI hub? If not I have one I'd sell you for a deal - very few miles, excellent condition, had my LBS build it up new: WI eccentric hub (135mm spacing), lockring, 17t WI cog, DT competition spokes, and Deep V in non-machined reflective black (link).

    Shoot me a pm if you're interested or would like pics. I converted my Cervelo road bike but then just ended up getting a true track frame not long after..

    Thanks for the offer! Unfortunately my bike is 126mm in the back.

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