Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 29
  1. #1
    Member clevername's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Oregon
    My Bikes
    Old ones, plus a 2014 roam.
    Posts
    30
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Lockring coming loose on suicide hub

    I have a 1972 Schwinn Super Sport road bike that somebody converted to a fixie. It runs nicely for $15, but there's one major problem I've just run into: I can't get the lockring tight enough.

    See, whoever did the conversion put a fixed gear onto a freewheel-thread hub—one set of regular threads, no reverse threads—and then put a lockring on after that. I'd been fooling around with it one day when I realized that it seemed to "slip" a bit when I was trying to skid. This is because the lockring had come loose and my gear was unscrewing itself a bit before hitting the lockring. I took the wheel off and tightened it as well as I could, but after 5 minutes of riding it came loose again...

    I'm wondering if this setup really is suicide or if there is some way to make the lockring really lock. Any tips?
    FYI my purpose for this bike was to have a fixie that would run nicely so that I could get a feel for a fixed gear (This is my first), and then maybe spend more money on a more expensive bike if I liked it. Soooo, I'd like a solution that's under $10..


    Attached are pictures of the parts, assembled and disassembled.

    100_7678.jpg100_7682.jpg
    Last edited by clevername; 01-01-14 at 11:03 PM. Reason: Pictures added

  2. #2
    Uninformed Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Union County, NJ
    Posts
    802
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    http://www.etrailer.com/Tools/Loctit...FepQOgod8lkAPw

    Don't know if the site is legit, it's the first one I saw after Googling.

  3. #3
    7-speed doomsday prepper ThermionicScott's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    CID
    My Bikes
    1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX
    Posts
    7,675
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    That's why it's a bad idea.

    (At least without red Locktite and time for that to cure.)
    Quote Originally Posted by chandltp View Post
    There's no such thing as too far.. just lack of time
    RUSA #7498

  4. #4
    Member clevername's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Oregon
    My Bikes
    Old ones, plus a 2014 roam.
    Posts
    30
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    The page mentions needing to heat with a torch to loosen... if I did end up wanting to change out gears do you think repeated heat cycles could damage the hub?

  5. #5
    Bicycle Repair Man !!! Sixty Fiver's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    YEG
    My Bikes
    See my sig...
    Posts
    25,764
    Mentioned
    13 Post(s)
    Tagged
    2 Thread(s)


    The suicide hub on this bike has been going strong for well over 7000 miles...

    The secret is to use red loctite and after making sure things are snug, to let it cure for at least 24 hours and to use a front brake as skidding with a "suicide" hub is not advised.

    I changed the cog once and it required a torch and 3 guys to get it off.

  6. #6
    Senior Member seau grateau's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    LA
    My Bikes
    Shogun Selectra (geared), Affinity Lo Pro (fixed)
    Posts
    5,390
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by clevername View Post
    The page mentions needing to heat with a torch to loosen... if I did end up wanting to change out gears do you think repeated heat cycles could damage the hub?
    If this is a concern, you could always switch chainrings instead.
    Quote Originally Posted by adriano View Post
    thanckx.
    Quote Originally Posted by Nagrom_ View Post
    "I made love to your mother dozens of times last week, and she doesnt know what a worn chain ring looks like"

  7. #7
    Senior Member seau grateau's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    LA
    My Bikes
    Shogun Selectra (geared), Affinity Lo Pro (fixed)
    Posts
    5,390
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Also it's worth asking if you're using the right tools to tighten your cog/lockring. If you're not using a good lockring wrench/pliers, then you're not tightening it enough.
    Quote Originally Posted by adriano View Post
    thanckx.
    Quote Originally Posted by Nagrom_ View Post
    "I made love to your mother dozens of times last week, and she doesnt know what a worn chain ring looks like"

  8. #8
    Member clevername's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Oregon
    My Bikes
    Old ones, plus a 2014 roam.
    Posts
    30
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Oh, great idea about switching chainrings! It's a one-piece crank though... so I'm not sure how difficult it might be to find one, haha. Plus I might eventually wear out the cog and need to replace it anyways...


    For my lockring, I used a spanner and ended up skinning my knuckles because it seemed like it had such a small amount of grip.

    This is what I have. The three-tooth end fits on my lockring.
    Are lockring pliers better for this job?
    Or something like Park Tool's BBT-7?

    Looks much more suitable, hah.

  9. #9
    Senior Member seau grateau's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    LA
    My Bikes
    Shogun Selectra (geared), Affinity Lo Pro (fixed)
    Posts
    5,390
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Pliers do the job best -- a good addition to any toolbox.
    Quote Originally Posted by adriano View Post
    thanckx.
    Quote Originally Posted by Nagrom_ View Post
    "I made love to your mother dozens of times last week, and she doesnt know what a worn chain ring looks like"

  10. #10
    Senior Member osiris419's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Tewksbury MA
    My Bikes
    SE Draft, Rudge Sports porteur fixed conversion, Specialized Allez sport, Raleigh Olympian, Peugeot Iseran beater ss, Huffy Aerowind F/G conversion
    Posts
    276
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Don't skid on a suicide hub use a brake
    http://www.pedalroom.com/members/osiris419

  11. #11
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    199
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    How is any lockring tool gonna really tighten a reverse threaded lockring on that hub? You all have to know it cant end well...

    Op - you might give this a try:

    fixie fix.JPG

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/151201504857...84.m1436.l2661

  12. #12
    Morton Nagrom_'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    East Bay
    My Bikes
    Kilo TT, CAAD10
    Posts
    9,664
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Rotafix + red loctite = good to go.
    Quote Originally Posted by seau grateau View Post
    No offense but you're an idiot.
    PedalRoom

  13. #13
    more coffee please
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    West Chester PA,
    My Bikes
    a couple schwinns
    Posts
    107
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Nagrom_ View Post
    Rotafix + red loctite = good to go.
    Yeah, this. Just make sure you get all the dirt and grease off the the cog, hub and lockring before you have at it. If you find fixed is up you alley, you can always invest in a better hub or wheel later. Miles of smiles in the meantime.

  14. #14
    Senior Member mihlbach's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    6,327
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    You don't need the red loctite. Just rotafix it. Really twist it on firmly. You'll be fine.

  15. #15
    Senior Member Philasteve's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    1,080
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Nagrom_ View Post
    Rotafix + red loctite = good to go.
    +1 Ever since my chainwhip broke. Never let's me down quick and easy.

  16. #16
    Member clevername's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Oregon
    My Bikes
    Old ones, plus a 2014 roam.
    Posts
    30
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by IAmSam View Post
    Hooray, this looks like it'll solve two problems for me! I also have a bad chainline, and this looks like it will fix that too... I suppose using 2-part epoxy to secure it, as they recommend, should be pretty strong. The prospect of leaving my skids up to a bit of glue, though, sounds a bit scary.. Has anybody epoxied their cog on?

  17. #17
    Member clevername's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Oregon
    My Bikes
    Old ones, plus a 2014 roam.
    Posts
    30
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    By the way, I do have it set up with a front brake and I plan to put on a rear sometime too. But skidding is pretty fun, if you ask me. I have a pair of old tires that I need to replace soon anyways, so I'm not worried about tearing them up.

  18. #18
    Member clevername's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Oregon
    My Bikes
    Old ones, plus a 2014 roam.
    Posts
    30
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by IAmSam View Post
    Wait, couldn't that cause me problems if I needed to adjust my hub bearings, being permanently fixed on there?

  19. #19
    Veteran Racer TejanoTrackie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Ciudad de Vacas, Tejas
    My Bikes
    28 frames + 73 wheels
    Posts
    7,398
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    If all you wanted to do is adjust the bearings, you can do that from the left side of the hub. You just need to fully tighten the right side bearing cone against the axle locknut before installing the adapter. Also, if these are solid axles that mount with track nuts in the dropouts, you can adjust the bearings with the wheel mounted in the frame. Just keep the right track nut tight and loosen the left nut so that you can adjust the left bearing cone. If you want to clean and repack the bearings, however, this will be a problem.
    What, Me Worry? - Alfred E. Neuman

    Quote Originally Posted by Dcv View Post
    I'd like to think i have as much money as brains.

  20. #20
    old legs
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    953
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Suicide hubs....clearing the gene pool one hipster at a time

  21. #21
    GMJ
    GMJ is offline
    Would you just look at it GMJ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    St. Louis
    My Bikes
    good ones.
    Posts
    1,496
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Good one.
    - George
    PedalRoom
    McChinken: "That's why you put it in the bottom bracket."

  22. #22
    Member clevername's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Oregon
    My Bikes
    Old ones, plus a 2014 roam.
    Posts
    30
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by TejanoTrackie View Post
    If all you wanted to do is adjust the bearings, you can do that from the left side of the hub. You just need to fully tighten the right side bearing cone against the axle locknut before installing the adapter. Also, if these are solid axles that mount with track nuts in the dropouts, you can adjust the bearings with the wheel mounted in the frame. Just keep the right track nut tight and loosen the left nut so that you can adjust the left bearing cone. If you want to clean and repack the bearings, however, this will be a problem.
    I have quick releases, however I think I might switch to solid axle. Just out of curiosity, is there any reason you would want to adjust your bearings while the wheel was still in the frame? Besides saving a few seconds, I suppose..

  23. #23
    Veteran Racer TejanoTrackie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Ciudad de Vacas, Tejas
    My Bikes
    28 frames + 73 wheels
    Posts
    7,398
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by clevername View Post
    I have quick releases, however I think I might switch to solid axle. Just out of curiosity, is there any reason you would want to adjust your bearings while the wheel was still in the frame? Besides saving a few seconds, I suppose..
    It's actually easier to adjust the bearings this way, because you can lock the axle securely on the right side while you adjust them on the left side. Also, you can't really judge the sideplay in the wheel until you actually mount it in the frame and push the rim sideways.
    What, Me Worry? - Alfred E. Neuman

    Quote Originally Posted by Dcv View Post
    I'd like to think i have as much money as brains.

  24. #24
    7-speed doomsday prepper ThermionicScott's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    CID
    My Bikes
    1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX
    Posts
    7,675
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by TejanoTrackie View Post
    It's actually easier to adjust the bearings this way, because you can lock the axle securely on the right side while you adjust them on the left side. Also, you can't really judge the sideplay in the wheel until you actually mount it in the frame and push the rim sideways.
    Hmm, isn't it hard on the axle threads to turn the cone and locknut while the QR is clamped down? I've been taking the wheel back out to make the adjustments before rechecking on the bike.
    Quote Originally Posted by chandltp View Post
    There's no such thing as too far.. just lack of time
    RUSA #7498

  25. #25
    Senior Member seau grateau's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    LA
    My Bikes
    Shogun Selectra (geared), Affinity Lo Pro (fixed)
    Posts
    5,390
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by ThermionicScott View Post
    Hmm, isn't it hard on the axle threads to turn the cone and locknut while the QR is clamped down? I've been taking the wheel back out to make the adjustments before rechecking on the bike.
    I was thinking the same thing. Seems like it would be fine on a nutted axle since you can clamp just one side, but QR doesn't really have that option.
    Quote Originally Posted by adriano View Post
    thanckx.
    Quote Originally Posted by Nagrom_ View Post
    "I made love to your mother dozens of times last week, and she doesnt know what a worn chain ring looks like"

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •