Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-17-14, 11:20 AM   #26
GuitarBob
Kit doesn't match
 
GuitarBob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Tucson, AZ
Bikes: 5
Posts: 624
As mentioned above, red loctite needs heat to release, blue doesn't -- just good old force, applied properly.
GuitarBob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-14, 11:32 AM   #27
bngbox
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Bikes:
Posts: 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by GuitarBob View Post
As mentioned above, red loctite needs heat to release, blue doesn't -- just good old force, applied properly.
That force is tearing up the notches on the back of those nuts... =/
bngbox is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-14, 11:52 AM   #28
Scrodzilla
There goes Tokyo
 
Scrodzilla's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Bikes:
Posts: 26,415
FWIW, Sram uses green thread locker. It needs alien strength to be broken.
__________________
__________________________________
Scrodzilla is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-14, 01:35 PM   #29
SquidPuppet
Senior Member
 
SquidPuppet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Coeur d' Alene
Bikes: Gas Pipe Nerdcycles
Posts: 3,450
Question: Are you trying to turn the nuts or the bolts, or both?

I ask because on my FSA crank, turning the slotted nuts will NOT happen, period. However, I can break the bolts free without even holding the nuts in place. I only need to hold the nuts from spinning once the initial break occurs.
SquidPuppet is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-14, 09:54 PM   #30
bngbox
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Bikes:
Posts: 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by SquidPuppet View Post
Question: Are you trying to turn the nuts or the bolts, or both?

I ask because on my FSA crank, turning the slotted nuts will NOT happen, period. However, I can break the bolts free without even holding the nuts in place. I only need to hold the nuts from spinning once the initial break occurs.
Turning the bolt while trying to hold the back nuts with the Park Tool. Since they're aluminum, I'm assuming, they're being shredded by the steel tool with the force that I'm applying. I've even tried longer Allen wrenches with more leverage to try and torque them out. But that's not happening.
bngbox is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-14, 09:55 PM   #31
bngbox
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Bikes:
Posts: 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrodzilla View Post
FWIW, Sram uses green thread locker. It needs alien strength to be broken.
That makes me feel a little bit better about my situation I guess, lol. I just bought cobalt/stainless drill bits online. Hopefully my friend's drill will have enough power to do the job.
bngbox is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-14, 11:17 PM   #32
soslowrider
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Bikes:
Posts: 18
Had this exact same problem a few months back. Made a lever similar to the park tool but longer and thicker. btw the park tool broke.
soslowrider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-14, 12:00 AM   #33
Scrodzilla
There goes Tokyo
 
Scrodzilla's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Bikes:
Posts: 26,415
That Park Tool chainring bolt spanner is useless.

http://www.amazon.com/Var-Combined-T.../dp/B004YJ2X7Q
__________________
__________________________________
Scrodzilla is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-14, 01:09 AM   #34
Nagrom_ 
SaltKing
 
Nagrom_'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Rock Bottom.
Bikes: CAAD Optimo Track
Posts: 10,604
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrodzilla View Post
That Park Tool chainring bolt spanner is useless.

That's not true, it works really well for taking off the battery doors on cycling computer sensors.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by seau grateau View Post
No offense but you're an idiot.
PedalRoom
Nagrom_ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-14, 08:38 AM   #35
Scrodzilla
There goes Tokyo
 
Scrodzilla's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Bikes:
Posts: 26,415
Maybe that's how they should market it.
__________________
__________________________________
Scrodzilla is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-14, 09:25 AM   #36
TejanoTrackie 
Veteran Racer
 
TejanoTrackie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ciudad de Vacas, Tejas
Bikes: 29 frames + 73 wheels
Posts: 10,108
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrodzilla View Post
That Park Tool chainring bolt spanner is useless.

http://www.amazon.com/Var-Combined-T.../dp/B004YJ2X7Q
What's even stupider is having to buy a $70 tool to remove chainring bolts. Sram stuff is stupid.
__________________
What, Me Worry? - Alfred E. Neuman

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dcv View Post
I'd like to think i have as much money as brains.
TejanoTrackie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-14, 09:33 AM   #37
Scrodzilla
There goes Tokyo
 
Scrodzilla's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Bikes:
Posts: 26,415
I guess that's the difference between being a mechanic who needs to remove stuck chainring bolts regularly and the average rider.
__________________
__________________________________
Scrodzilla is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-14, 09:55 PM   #38
Surly2698
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Denver Colorado
Bikes: Surly steam roller, bear knukle,big block, fbm sword, litespeed swobo sanches
Posts: 94
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrodzilla View Post
I guess that's the difference between being a mechanic who needs to remove stuck chainring bolts regularly and the average rider.
My Sram Omnium crank set has chain ring bolts that take 5mm Allen wrench on one side and 6mm on the other side.
Don't know if the Sram 300 is the same.
Surly2698 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-14, 10:09 PM   #39
Scrodzilla
There goes Tokyo
 
Scrodzilla's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Bikes:
Posts: 26,415
They're not. I recently encountered a set that even my VAR tool couldn't break free and ended up saying **** it and drilling them out.
__________________
__________________________________
Scrodzilla is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-14, 10:45 PM   #40
Northwestrider
Senior Member
 
Northwestrider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Gig Harbor, WA
Bikes: Surly Long Haul Trucker, Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo, Dahon Mu P 24 , Bacchetta Strada, Rodriguez Tandem, Wheeler MTB
Posts: 2,338
Steve, your LBS may not the tool in stock, but they sure ought to be able to order it for you and have it within a very few days. I would have thought they would have suggested that by now.
Northwestrider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-14, 10:27 AM   #41
bngbox
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Bikes:
Posts: 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrodzilla View Post
They're not. I recently encountered a set that even my VAR tool couldn't break free and ended up saying **** it and drilling them out.
What was your ideal drill bit size? I don't want to over-do it by accident. Looks like mine are 7 or 7.5mm to drill out safely.
bngbox is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-14, 06:19 AM   #42
bngbox
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Bikes:
Posts: 36
So after about 2 hours of fidgeting, I finally got one of five bolts off by drilling. I've gotta warn you guys, SRAM is SUCH a PITA. Should not be this difficult to remove something that was meant to be exchanged or replaced. Had to order other sized drill bits. Thinking maybe I can start from the 3 or 4mm and gradually expand the inner hole. The first bolt came out with the 7mm, finally. Have to give it to them for making some tough parts though. These bolts/nuts are not by any means, "soft."
bngbox is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-14, 11:12 AM   #43
IthaDan 
Senior Member
 
IthaDan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Ithaca, NY
Bikes: Click on the #YOLO
Posts: 4,871
^^ drill slower- stainless stuff is pretty hard, but certainly not impossible and tends to heat up. Too much heat and your drill bit will lose it's temper and edge. Ideally you'd have some kind of cutting oil to help lube as well as cool, but even plain water would be useful to keep things cool. When you're done, give your drill it a quick squirt of wd40.



Quote:
Originally Posted by bngbox View Post
What was your ideal drill bit size? I don't want to over-do it by accident. Looks like mine are 7 or 7.5mm to drill out safely.
The hole in the crankarm is whatever the clearance tolerance is (usually .005", or ~.125mm) over 10mm. You're good for pretty much any bit up to 3/8" IF you can keep it centered.
__________________

Shimano : Click :: Campy :: Snap :: SRAM : Bang

Last edited by IthaDan; 06-23-14 at 11:15 AM.
IthaDan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-14, 09:23 PM   #44
Nagrom_ 
SaltKing
 
Nagrom_'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Rock Bottom.
Bikes: CAAD Optimo Track
Posts: 10,604
Lol sram sucks cause you can't get chain ring bolts out.

Got it.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by seau grateau View Post
No offense but you're an idiot.
PedalRoom
Nagrom_ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-14, 10:32 PM   #45
bngbox
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Bikes:
Posts: 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nagrom_ View Post
Lol sram sucks cause you can't get chain ring bolts out.

Got it.
Never said that. I said it was a pain in the a**. And then I also gave it credit for being tough. Just saying that they didn't have to make it impossible to take out chainring bolts when they also make other chainrings that you should be able to replace this one with. No reason to put green loctite/paste on something that was meant to be removed. Might as well have riveted them in at this point.
bngbox is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-14, 11:54 PM   #46
Babel Coglioni
Newbie
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Bikes:
Posts: 2
I had the same problem. I bought a new SRAM S300 1.1 crankset to replace the original Sugino square-tapered crankset on my 2007 Specialized Langster single speed road bike (my all-weather commuter). I wanted to swap the supplied 48T chainring for my existing 44T. I have a BBB-brand chainring nut wrench. I have a hex key. I've swapped chainrings before.

After several attempts - involving much cursing, wrench slippage, and burring of the diametrically opposed slots on the nuts - I removed one of the bolts. That was when I discovered the green Loctite. From the green Loctite technical data sheet:

Quote:
For disassembly, shear with standard hand tools [...] In rare instances where hand tools do not work because of excessive engagement length, apply localized heat to nut or bolt to approximately 482 degrees F (250 degrees C). Disassemble while hot.
To remove the remaining bolts, I applied a heat g u n for around 5 minutes to each bolt. Then they grudgingly unwound.

I'm going to look for some chainring bolts with hex sockets on each side. I never liked those slotted nuts or their wrenches. Blaming my tools, I know, but I've skinned my knuckles more than once on chainring teeth after the wrench slipped out of the slots. That's without Loctite. I've never managed to burr those slots before, though; at least, not nearly so badly.

I wanted to end this post with a fact-based statement about SRAM's decision to use green Loctite: as in, "it's wrong, and these are the figures to prove it". However, after doing some research on recommended chainring bolt tightening torque, Loctite breakaway/prevail/breakloose torque, and tightening torque versus loosening torque in general, I find myself mired in too many variables. I'd appreciate someone with more time and a stronger grasp of the science to step in here. All I can offer is an opinion based on first-hand experience mixed with some research: I think that green Loctite is the wrong choice for this application, especially for the supplied chainring bolts with slotted nuts. This is the first time I've needed a heat g u n to swap a chainring. At the very least, SRAM could mention this use of green Loctite in the documentation supplied with the crankset - perhaps with a recommendation, to quote the Loctite fact sheet, "to apply localized heat [...] to approximately 250 degrees C".
Babel Coglioni is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-14, 01:10 AM   #47
europa
Grumpy Old Bugga
 
europa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Adelaide, AUSTRALIA
Bikes: Europa, Hillbrick, Road Chief, Repco Superlite (Ol' Rusty)
Posts: 3,327
Loctite? I use grease. Guess I'm doing it all wrong.
europa is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:48 AM.