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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

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Old 04-01-14, 10:10 PM   #26
veganbikes
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These are the same people that made this:



Just because you can do something doesn't mean you should.
Sure but imagine how light those things are...besides extra spokes are for suckers ; )

If I ever dared own a pair of Lew Racing wheels they would be on a wall behind glass so I could point at them and say (in a proper british accent) "yeah they cost more than your car" and excuse myself to slip into my smoking jacket and monocle. (if of course I am not already wearing them)

Carbon or similar type rims will probably never touch my bike unless I were to lose about 50 pounds, start racing and come into some serious money. That 8 spoke idiocy should not exist but is nice to look at and kind of chuckle.
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Old 04-01-14, 10:11 PM   #27
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Since I first saw them both I've really liked the idea of Dura Ace 7600 hubs with Araya SA-30 rims. Sure, I'm just shopping from Scrod's site but I've liked them both since I first saw them.
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Old 04-01-14, 10:11 PM   #28
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Dream wheels? I'd most likely go with something along the lines of NOS 1984 Campy C-Record low flange hubs laced to NOS Mavic MA40 rims from the same year and finish them off with an EAI Gold Medal cog just for ****s & giggles.

Oh wait...I already did that!



I'd swap the Campy hubs for Superbe track hubs and keep everything else.
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Old 04-01-14, 10:18 PM   #29
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I really like the MA40 and Araya red labels and even better would be an Araya 1W semi aero from that period.... my Garlatti wears some 1W rims laced to Arvon hubs and these are as smooth and fast as they come.



I would also use one of these hubs... the 1-1 is designed for a dual cog.

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Old 04-02-14, 05:24 PM   #30
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Arvon

Eighty Six those washers Sixty Fiver!
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Old 04-02-14, 05:51 PM   #31
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Eighty Six those washers Sixty Fiver!
Actually, those washers were mentioned in a discussion on stopping the wheel slipping in the dropouts. I was having trouble, Sixty Fiver offered that suggestion as one solution used in his shop.
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Old 04-02-14, 05:53 PM   #32
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Actually, those washers were mentioned in a discussion on stopping the wheel slipping in the dropouts. I was having trouble, Sixty Fiver offered that suggestion as one solution used in his shop.
That's a common problem with hubs like that on the track. Phil hubs use allen bolts, too. The best solution is to use a chain tensioner and/or a cone like this, which spreads the force of the bolt over a larger area:

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Old 04-02-14, 05:59 PM   #33
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That's a common problem with hubs like that on the track. Phil hubs use allen bolts, too. The best solution is to use a chain tensioner and/or a cone like this, which spreads the force of the bolt over a larger area:
Actually, I fixed it by discovering that my dropouts weren't aligned properly and correcting that, though that's not discounting your suggestion in any way. For such simple beasties, bikes can be horribly complicated sometimes.
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Old 04-02-14, 06:12 PM   #34
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That's a common problem with hubs like that on the track. Phil hubs use allen bolts, too. The best solution is to use a chain tensioner and/or a cone like this, which spreads the force of the bolt over a larger area:

No, the best solution is to use traditional externally threaded 10mm solid axles and nuts, which can be tightened much better due to the significantly larger thread size. Using small 6mm hex socket (allen) bolts is plain stupid.
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Last edited by TejanoTrackie; 04-02-14 at 06:19 PM. Reason: correction, 6mm
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Old 04-02-14, 06:21 PM   #35
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No, the best solution is to use traditional externally threaded 10mm solid axles and nuts, which can be tightened much better due to the significantly larger thread size. Using small 6mm hex socket (allen) bolts is plain stupid.
I agree!!

I meant that the best solution to keep allen bolts from slipping if you already have them.

I had one set of wheels with those using American Classic hubs. I would yank the wheel forward every time I climbed a hill.
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Old 04-02-14, 06:33 PM   #36
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I agree!!

I meant that the best solution to keep allen bolts from slipping if you already have them.

I had one set of wheels with those using American Classic hubs. I would yank the wheel forward every time I climbed a hill.
I borrowed a rear wheel like that once for a track workout doing standing starts, and I finally gave up because I could not get the danged bolt tight enough to keep from pulling the wheel at the start. And I'm no where near as powerful as someone like you, so I can't even imagine you using one.
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I'd like to think i have as much money as brains.
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Old 04-02-14, 06:52 PM   #37
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Eighty Six those washers Sixty Fiver!
We have sent wheels to the Olympics... the hubs don't slip and those are high quality steel washers which are not made of pot metal and the bolts are high tensile M10 that uses an 8mm head.

If you want beefier washers those are not hard to find, we just keep them separate from the allen bolt so they can be replaced.

My own Arvon wheels have some nice SA lock washers which have never budged under some very hard use.

Last edited by Sixty Fiver; 04-02-14 at 07:01 PM.
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Old 04-02-14, 07:11 PM   #38
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(in a proper british accent)
paul lew is american.
i recently laced a set of old (2007ish?) lew tubie rims to dt swiss 180 hubs...just over 900g for the set. pretty unbelievable.
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Old 04-02-14, 07:30 PM   #39
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My dream wheelset would have a Rolhoff in the back and a Schmidt Son in the front. Heavy duty 32 hole touring rims. Schwalbe Kojak tires.

I'm too slow for lightweight aerodynamic wheels to mater on my fixed gear, so i want the nice wheels for my touring rig.
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Old 04-02-14, 07:36 PM   #40
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paul lew is american.
i recently laced a set of old (2007ish?) lew tubie rims to dt swiss 180 hubs...just over 900g for the set. pretty unbelievable.
Quite, quite. Across the pond and such. Yes. (when in doubt pinky out)

You must be fancy when talking fancy wheels.
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Old 04-03-14, 05:49 PM   #41
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Beef

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If you want beefier washers those are not hard to find, we just keep them separate from the allen bolt so they can be replaced.
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Old 04-03-14, 08:51 PM   #42
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Yup. That's what I meant by this:

Quote:
Originally Posted by carleton View Post
That's a common problem with hubs like that on the track. Phil hubs use allen bolts, too. The best solution is to use a chain tensioner and/or a cone like this, which spreads the force of the bolt over a larger area:

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Old 04-03-14, 09:22 PM   #43
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Where does one find these rather stout washers?
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Old 04-03-14, 10:11 PM   #44
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Where does one find these rather stout washers?
From Zipp: Zipp - Speed Weaponry | Accessories | Components | Track Axle Cap Kits
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Old 04-03-14, 10:23 PM   #45
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Thanks carleton!
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Old 04-03-14, 10:57 PM   #46
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I just remembered, I have always liked the Reynolds Recon track wheelset.

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Old 04-04-14, 06:12 PM   #47
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ReCon

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I just remembered, I have always liked the Reynolds Recon track wheelset.
Yep! I have a set, Xlnt wheels for the money.
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Old 04-04-14, 07:02 PM   #48
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My favorite type of lock washer... costs very little and can be replaced for very little (less than $1.00 per wheelset).



When we send wheels to the U.S. they sometimes get ordered with Imperial threading so that off the shelf replacements are easy to find.

We like the idea of using these non proprietary parts for axles so that people who use our products can pick up replacements anywhere.

A few of my Arvon wheelsets have tommy bolts with a 15mm flat for a wrench... these are a really early set (mid eighties) and I have since replaced the old washers seen here.

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Old 04-18-14, 09:11 AM   #49
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Hey guys,

I am going to be making a new fixie (I already have one) out of an old frame such as a Peugeot Reynolds 531 (along those lines) and I am going to deck it out with some decently swanky parts. I was wondering if anyone could point me in the right direction of a race-ish looking wheelset (along the lines of Shimano WH-R501) around a sort of AUD$80 for each price range.

Thanks!
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Old 04-18-14, 09:24 AM   #50
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Hey guys,

I am going to be making a new fixie (I already have one) out of an old frame such as a Peugeot Reynolds 531 (along those lines) and I am going to deck it out with some decently swanky parts. I was wondering if anyone could point me in the right direction of a race-ish looking wheelset (along the lines of Shimano WH-R501) around a sort of AUD$80 for each price range.

Thanks!
This is threadjacking. Start a new thread if you want to ask a new question.
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