Geaer Ratio suggestion
#1
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Geaer Ratio suggestion
My bike is on 46:16 right now and I would like to get the ratio lil lower since I live in a bit of hilly area (Vancouver). Would I feel any difference if I just went one cog down? it would be great if anyone could suggest a good gear ratio for a hilly area.
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You'll want to go UP not down on the cogs if you want an easier ride.
I don't live in a hilly area but I feel I difference when going from a 16 cog to a 15 cog (48T chain ring).
See if your LBS has some cheap spare cogs you can buy to try until you feel what works for you.
Retrogression sells a $1 cog in 17T if you wanted to buy it to try.
one dollar cogs | Retrogression
I don't live in a hilly area but I feel I difference when going from a 16 cog to a 15 cog (48T chain ring).
See if your LBS has some cheap spare cogs you can buy to try until you feel what works for you.
Retrogression sells a $1 cog in 17T if you wanted to buy it to try.
one dollar cogs | Retrogression
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If you go down with one tooth on the your rear cog, you will have a harder time getting up hills and yes, you will notice.
I can notice one tooth differences in the front. I say you buy a cog that is one tooth higher (17t) and then, if that was too drastic of a change, change your front chainring to a one tooth smaller (45t) ring and use with your 16t.
I don't like in a very hilly area and I usually mash around on fixed, but 47/17 is very popular as a do-all gear.
I can notice one tooth differences in the front. I say you buy a cog that is one tooth higher (17t) and then, if that was too drastic of a change, change your front chainring to a one tooth smaller (45t) ring and use with your 16t.
I don't like in a very hilly area and I usually mash around on fixed, but 47/17 is very popular as a do-all gear.
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We should talk about why other cyclists won't wave back.
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if i see chrome handlbars and no bar tape and no brakes i know im dealin w/ a bad mofo and drop my head in 'spect. keepn it real folks
#12
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Gear ratio is directly related to effort or "how hard it is". Probably a statement of the obvious but perhaps not to the OP. So divide the no of teeth on the chain-ring by the number of teeth on the rear and you have the ratio, e.g. 50/25 = 2. So now if you change from 50/25 to 50/20, you have changed your ratio from 2 to 2.5. Next divide the 2 by 2.5 = 0.8. This result means it will only be 0.8 of the effort after the change. In other words it will be 20% easier. In other words if you had to push with a force of 80 lbs before you will push with only 64 lbs after the change. Hope this helps. Hope I didn't stuff up the math :-)
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See if your LBS has some cheap spare cogs you can buy to try until you feel what works for you.
Retrogression sells a $1 cog in 17T if you wanted to buy it to try.
one dollar cogs | Retrogression
i need to jump on this
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In case anyone does a search and gets this stupid thread because they typed in "Geaer Ratio":
THIS IS THE PROPER THREAD TO LOOK AT:
Uncle Sixty's Gearing Primer for Newbs
and good on you for at least doing a search.
THIS IS THE PROPER THREAD TO LOOK AT:
Uncle Sixty's Gearing Primer for Newbs
and good on you for at least doing a search.
Last edited by prooftheory; 05-30-14 at 07:42 AM.
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I gotta have 43x16 to get my old ass up the 10%+ action around here. Makes going down slow and spinny but...
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https://i.imgur.com/URBimp2.gif
i use this ratio. good for down hill
i use this ratio. good for down hill