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  1. #1
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    Loctite Question

    I picked up some blue "loctite" stuff, except that it is off brand loctite, permtex or something like that.
    My stuff seems really runny; I expected it to be a thicker goo. It is runny like paint; pretty thin.

    Is it usually really runny?
    What is the setup time for the adhesive to set? The package doesn't suggest anything.

  2. #2
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    From my experience it's always runny. I think it takes 24 hours for most loctite to set firmly.

  3. #3
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    Ok thanks. I envisioned it as sort of a ketchup consistency, not really that watery.
    I also was getting worried when it was not drying and still drippy, but the 24hr cure time will probably solve that!

  4. #4
    slower than you Applehead57's Avatar
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    Doesn't sound wrong. Mine isn't thick either. I'd say it was the correct stuff.

    Set-up time? Once I screw it in, I don't touch in again. With the moderate loc-tite, I find that turning the screw slightly, destroys the loc-tite bond. I would leave it alone for a couple of hours anyway.
    "Lack of opportunity does not constitute virtue". Diana Tickle.

  5. #5
    Senior Member royalflash's Avatar
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    Loctite doesnt look very convincing- I got some from ebay and suspected that it was just cornflower with some blue food dye at first.

    Apparently though it only sets in the absence of air like when you fasten a nut and bolt together. Hence, dont expect it to set if you just leave some out in the air.
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  6. #6
    Ride it, don't fondle it! Wheel Doctor's Avatar
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    The best LocTite is the actual LocTite brand. It IS thicker. The crap in the little tubes you get at the hardware store is close to useless. The Permatex stuff is pretty good. I get the real stuff from McMaster-Carr Industrial supply. The Loctite brand is the
    only stuff the they use in avaition and it has a Mil-Spec.

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    I am using that permatex stuff, the blue variety. It seems counter intuitive that the little runny blue stuff can form a strong bond... To test out this stuff, I put some on a big ol bolt; we'll see how it holds.
    When the stuff which had oozed out of the cog interface hadn't dried yet, I thought I might have gotten a bum batch.
    It's also expensive @ $4 for a little bottle..
    I thought that loctite was basically a epoxy?

  8. #8
    Ride it, don't fondle it! Wheel Doctor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BostonFixed
    I am using that permatex stuff, the blue variety. It seems counter intuitive that the little runny blue stuff can form a strong bond... To test out this stuff, I put some on a big ol bolt; we'll see how it holds.
    When the stuff which had oozed out of the cog interface hadn't dried yet, I thought I might have gotten a bum batch.
    It's also expensive @ $4 for a little bottle..
    I thought that loctite was basically a epoxy?
    I'm not sure but I don't think it is an epoxy. To me epoxy and epoxy based is usually a two part mix. I thinl it may well be a polyethelene based product. I hate the runny crap. If you really want to keep your lockring on there is a red LocTite 268. You have to heat it to remove it. However I have used an industrial heat *** to free it up.
    The medium Loctite Thread Blocker 248 is what you really want.

  9. #9
    Grease Monkey polytoxic's Avatar
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    Its not an epoxy, nothing like that actually. It becomes a platic like substance when there is no oxygen. When you scew in the bolt or any other threaded fastener with loctite it stays in the threads and the outside edges of the loctite create a seal so no air will hit the loctite located in the center most portion of the fastener, that will harden the loctite in the center. The loctite does need some time to cure so you should not take out or move the fanstener after you torque it down.

    The proper way to use loctite is to clean the threads of both peices with something like brakeclean or some other type of degreaser to get out any oil residue, dirt, or grease. Then you apply a small amount on the first 2 or 3 threads of the fastener. After that you just hand screw it in till you can safely use a ratchet or wrench, torque it down to the correct torque value and your done. You can safely use your bike directly afterwards even if the loctite is not cured. After taking the that fastener out for maintance or adjustment you will notice that the loctite will be adhered to both the screw and the nut or what have you. For the screw you will need a wire brush or a pick to clean off all of loctite residue and run a tap to clean of the threads on the female part of the thread (i.e. the nut) after that you will need to degrease again with brakeclean and start the process over again.

    There are also other colors available than just blue or red.
    Blue is medium strength
    Red is maximum strength (sh*t is ridiculously good, almost too good, it will sometimes lead to threads on aluminum to pull right out, heat is usually needed to help with the fastener extraction)
    Orange is medium strength high heat.
    Green is a light duty more suited to smaller fasnteners and for use on aluminum.

    As far as brands, the top three brands in order are...
    1. HP2, which is a honda motor corp brand that is available at Honda motorcycle dealers
    2. Loctite
    3. Permatex

    After working for a professional motorcycle road racing team as a team mechanic and having the crew chief be a loctite nazi I know all of this too well. For every motorcycle that I race prepped or had to tear down I would end up using up at least one whole bottle of loctite of each color on one motorcycle on reassymbly. He did have his reasons though, during his tenure as Crew Chief they never had a mechanical related DNF.
    ~Mike "own too many toys" G.

  10. #10
    Ride it, don't fondle it! Wheel Doctor's Avatar
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    Mike, Thanks for the additional info. I might try the HP2. I have a friend that is the Manager at the local Honda Motocycle Shop. I usuall get my LocTite at a machine shop supply or McMaster-Carr. Honda shop will be easier.

  11. #11
    BFSSFG old timer riderx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wheel Doctor
    I get the real stuff from McMaster-Carr Industrial supply.
    McMaster, loved by all tinkerers. Just placed an order yesterday...
    Single Speed Outlaw
    Riding Bikes and Drinking Beer.

  12. #12
    Grease Monkey polytoxic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wheel Doctor
    Mike, Thanks for the additional info. I might try the HP2. I have a friend that is the Manager at the local Honda Motocycle Shop. I usuall get my LocTite at a machine shop supply or McMaster-Carr. Honda shop will be easier.
    No problem!
    ~Mike "own too many toys" G.

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