Bandera

A road bike handles the same regardless of drivetrain flavor: Fixed, SS/FW, IGH/FW or Derailleur/FW.
On a FG one must learn the proper techniques to start/engage foot retention , stop/disengage, embrace the relentless fixed wheel experience and respect pedal strike potential. Other than that: Same, same. The handling characteristics of the machine remain unchanged, the rider must adapt to the altered drivetrain mechanics to develop a supple powerful high cadence pedaling style with grunt and spin on demand.

On a Fixed Gear you pedal the machine and it pedals you right back: Fair is fair.

-Bandera

rms13

I'm assuming he was talking about track geo vs road geo but yeah drive train won't effect handling

Bandera

If he was referencing Track vs. Road bike construction on the road I have a humiliating experience that has become humorous over the years.

I acquired a lightly wrecked Zeus track bike in otherwise pristine condition "back when" and had at it to the best of my ability on the local velodrome where it was a fine bike in every respect. Having foolishly sold my old road FG beater conversion when winter came I had the fork drilled for a brake fitting on the Zeus and proceed with the FG base miles training required on my trick track bike. The excellent track bike rode like a lumber wagon on the rough road surfaces, was nervous descending big hills and skittish in cross winds. I ruined the paint job and trashed a lovely set of light tubular wheels by forcing a purpose built machine onto an environment for which it was not designed.

Lesson learned I have ridden road bikes converted to FG on the road ever since: form over fashion and horses for courses as they say.....



One like the above.

-Bandera

50voltphantom

^I've always wondered about the longevity of velodrome specific frames and wheels on the streets. Thanks for the insight.

RNAV

Ok. Here's my thought process. I'm not sure I want to spend $400 on a new bike considering I've never ridden a FG bike, so I've got no idea if I'll actually like it. When it comes to converting the Trek . . . the bike's already heavy, so I might as well just try to convert it as cheaply as possible to see if I even like riding a fixed.

So in doing some research, I came across this: Eight Inch Conversion Kit

Comes with rear wheel, 16T cog & lock ring, crankset, BB, and chain. $80 shipped. I realize this isn't top-of-the-line anything, but what do you all think? I figure if I don't like it, I'm only out 80 bucks. If I do like it, then I've already got the Trek converted, and I can just upgrade components at my leisure.

Any reason why I shouldn't go with this?

TejanoTrackie 

Lightweight track frames and wheels are no different than lightweight road equivalents in terms of durability. Either will be destroyed in a bad crash. However, lightweight track tubular tires won't last long on the road. I've been riding my Bianchi Pista Concept track bike on the road a lot lately with heavier road tubular tires, and it hasn't desintegrated. The only difference in setup is that I run much lower pressures in the tires, and the ride isn't punishing at all, even on nasty Texas chip seal pavement.

Bandera

My experience w/ the lovely Zeus is from decades ago, not very current.
Racing bikes don't roll on very light tubular/rims/tires these days as we did but a track geometry is not a road geometry 1914, 1974 or 2014.
Strength was never an issue putting the Zeus on the road it was a dedicated track machine and was simply not at home on the road, not a big surprise in hindsight.

I ride road bikes on the road regardless of drivetrain type since then.

-Bandera

TejanoTrackie 

That's a hella good deal. I say go for it.

50voltphantom

^Wonder what spacing the hub is that comes with that.

europa

You can do it cheaper simply by stripping off all the gear bits, buying a 3/32 cog, running that onto the existing rear wheel and shortening your existing chain - as described here but realistically, few people dislike fg enough to give up on it completely (ie, it's nice to have one in the garage) and you can always spin off the fixed cog and put on a freewheel for SS (for the simplicity), so you'll probably wind up buying a wheel and maybe a crank anyway. If you like the look of the Origin8 kit, go for it, makes sense to do it properly up front.

Spoonrobot 

So, having to corner at a significantly more obtuse angle and increased potential for pedal strike is not a "handling characteristic"?

I was not. All other things kept constant, a fixed gear bike will handle differently than a road bike precisely because of the drivetrain. Being able to put resistance backwards onto the pedals changes the ride dramatically, the fixed gear bike with corner different, it will slalom different and it will climb different than the exact same bike set up with a road drivetrain. This is a known characteristic and can easily be proven with an afternoon of parts swapping on any compatible frame.

FWIW, I put 10,000+ miles on my Eigthinch crankset/bb with no issues. However, the chainring is 6061 aluminum and does not last very long. I kept a reasonable chain replacement schedule (replaced at slightly above 12 1/16") and wore out my chainring in less than 7,000 miles. Chainring life should be 1.5-2x that mileage. Replacement rings are generally @$10 so it's not a big deal but be aware that 7075 rings last significantly longer. Also note that if you email the company when you order they will generally provide spacers to adjust the rear axle to whatever width your frame is. The rear wheel used to come with 126mm spacing but I am unsure if that is still the case, I'd recommend measuring and getting in touch with them before ordering. I think for $80 shipped that is a screaming deal, be sure to stress relieve the spokes and I think you'll find it perfectly functional.

europa

No it's not, it's riding technique, the bike still turns into the corner the same way under the same steering inputs, THAT is the handling characteristic. The bike handles the same regardless of drivetrain, you have to ride it differently.

t x

PROTIP: If the drivetrain is the differentiating factor the issue is not with the frame geometry.

Cute Boy Horse

12KG isn't heavy for a geared bike and the weight of your "wheelset" (lol) doesn't matter one bit. Literally just buy the cheapest rear fixed wheel you can get that isn't a fake deep-v and stop being such a roadie about everything. That thing from eight inch will do you great.

RNAV

I ordered the eigthinch conversion kit. I appreciate everyone's input -- I'll update once I've completed the conversion.