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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

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Old 04-11-05, 07:51 PM   #1
Jaminsky
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Wheel Truing W/O A Stand

Does anyone have any recommendations for techniques on truing a wheel without a truing stand. I'm trying to DIY the whole bike, but I dont really have any truing experience and obviously want solid results. I've been using Sheldons directions as far as building goes thusfar and have a trusty Spokey at my side. Both wheels are laced and preped. Thanks.
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Old 04-11-05, 08:08 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaminsky
Does anyone have any recommendations for techniques on truing a wheel without a truing stand. I'm trying to DIY the whole bike, but I dont really have any truing experience and obviously want solid results. I've been using Sheldons directions as far as building goes thusfar and have a trusty Spokey at my side. Both wheels are laced and preped. Thanks.
Do a search on the archives - it has been discussed frequently recently.
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Old 04-11-05, 11:51 PM   #3
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try a mallot and chisel
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Old 04-12-05, 02:51 AM   #4
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Here's the trick: (Wish I had pics. I'll discuss the front wheel, but the rear wheel is the same.)

Get two sharpened pencils (preferably the older wooden type) and two smaller rubber bands.

1. Wrap the rubber band around one blade of the fork and then stick the sharpened pencil through the two ends of the rubber band. Now you should have the fork pointing one way and the pencil attached to it perpendicularly.

2. Do the same with the other blade of the fork.

3. Drop the wheel in the dropouts and tighten the track nuts or the quick release lever (which ever one you have).

4. Move the tips of the pencils in as close as they'll go. Give the wheel a spin and adjust the pencils as necassary.

You have a pretty good make shift truing stand. The same can be done with the rear wheel by attaching the pencils to the seatstays.

Let me know if you have questions.
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Old 04-12-05, 05:43 AM   #5
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I built mine following the Gospel of Sheldon using the flipped bike as the truing stand- and used my eyes rather than any crayons or pencils. It is as true and round as any wheel I've purchased new- and it has held true. It may have a runout of .5mm, but that isn't bad at all...

It was remarkably easy to build and true- and building really gives a better understanding of how to true.
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Old 04-12-05, 05:55 AM   #6
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While the advice of using pencils could be quite precise, I have trued both my wheels with masking tape and a sharp sharpie. I wrapped tape around the seatstays for exemple, stuck my wheel to the complete back of the dropouts (forward facing) and then mesured with a big metal ruler the distance from the outside of the stays. Divide by two, add half the widith of the rim to each side, and now you can be sure that it will be centered with your frame.
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Old 04-12-05, 06:24 AM   #7
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Brake blocks, or any old bit of crap for a pointer, held in place with tape.

To test for centre, flip the wheel around in the dropouts.
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Old 04-12-05, 09:48 AM   #8
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I use a spoke with an L bend tied to the fork/stays with an old toe strap or ankle strap. But sure to also bend a round at the end of the spoke so you're not poking at your rim or tire with a sharp end.

Now you can easily swivel the feeler in and out from the rim and also move it up over the top to check for radial true.
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Old 04-12-05, 10:01 AM   #9
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All this deals with the lateral truing of your wheels. Don't for get about the radial true (roundness) and the wheel's dish. It should be pretty easy to fashon a home brew dishing tool.
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Old 04-12-05, 10:34 AM   #10
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It's actually pretty easy to check dish. Lay your wheel on the floor next to the wall. Press down on the rim on the side directly opposite the wall so that the rim and axle are in contact with the floor. Take note of how high the side nearest the wall reaches, like a teeter-totter. Now flip it over and repeat the process.

Assuming the axle is properly centered in the hub, both sides of the wheel should reach the same hight on the wall. If not, your rim isn't centered.

(For the record, this isn't my own trick.)
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Old 04-12-05, 11:21 AM   #11
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thats a good one!!
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Old 04-12-05, 01:13 PM   #12
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remember to true the wheel, then stress it by putting it flat on the floor, and pushing quite hard on the rim, so you hear a 'cracking sound', thats the spokes bedding in.
if you do this each time its true, untill it nolonger makes any sound when you do it, and stays true, your done.
its time consuming, but really makes the wheel strong. besides, if you dont do it, its only going to do it when you ride it, tyhen you will have to true it again.
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Old 04-12-05, 01:14 PM   #13
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by the sounds of this thread, who need fancy tools!
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Old 04-12-05, 07:56 PM   #14
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When I'm stressing the wheel by putting it on the floor and pushing on the rim, should the only part of the wheel touching the floor be the axel? Word to all. A little unclear at points but I think I get it. Thanks for the assistance on what im sure is an over-discussed topic.
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Old 04-12-05, 08:13 PM   #15
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Personally, I prefer Sheldon's mechanism: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html#seating

Jobst Brandt claims that it's not possible to stress relieve just by pressing down on the rim anyhow.
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Old 04-13-05, 03:50 AM   #16
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I press on the rim *and* pinch parallel spoke pairs. Seems to work so far
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Old 04-13-05, 02:52 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaminsky
When I'm stressing the wheel by putting it on the floor and pushing on the rim, should the only part of the wheel touching the floor be the axel? Word to all. A little unclear at points but I think I get it. Thanks for the assistance on what im sure is an over-discussed topic.
yeah the only thing touching is the axel
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