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Thread: Chinese wheels!

  1. #26
    Senior Member mkadam68's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmX View Post
    ^ exactly why I'd never buy no name carbon clinchers for my road bike. Some decents require a whole lot of brake, and the last thing I need to be worried about on a fast technical descent is a wheel melting.

    Again, nobody has ever melted down a Zipp firecrest, and it's almost exclusively ridden by overweight middle aged men who ride the brakes. I did pay like $1500 for my 404s, so that's 3x the chinese price, but the price for sexy wheels I don't need is worth it if it means I don't die coming down from Mt Baldy. I think the easton carbon wheels also have never had a publicly reported meltdown, FWIW. Previous reynolds were melty, and I think first gen ENVE's (EDGE?) also had failures. I bet most of the current iterations from those companies are good now too though.
    Oh definitely. Not willing to give up on them, here's the lesson I took: use my brain! When riding tough descents, take my Open Pro wheels instead or don't do the ride!

    Visit The C-Blog : the blog about cycling.

  2. #27
    got the climbing bug jsigone's Avatar
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    I find decending on carbon (even my tubs) is entirely different style then alum rims. Yah you can't ride the brakes down the entire mt so I find myself late braking like a mofo. Kinda reminds me how I used to decend when a bit younger and never had a blow out in the corners.

    Even the guys I ride w/ with Enve's, Reynolds carbon clinchers have tubes pop on heavy decents. The high end carbon doesn't boil but the tube does. Some link this to the plastic tire rim tape used that might be heating up faster then the rubber tube does. Not sure. But I feel safer on tubulars, stiffer and won't pop if I cook the brakes.
    ...mad as a box of frogs

  3. #28
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    Black prince pads are in. No more squealing during braking. Stopping power isn't great at the moment (that part might be addressable by adjusting the cable) but satisfactory. Hit 50 miles on the front wheel. Spokes for the rear should be here in the next few days.

    Realized that I made a mistake lacing the front wheel. Instead of interlacing the spokes, I just routed them directly from the hub to the rim. Sounds like it's not a huge deal for a non-torque-carrying wheel but I'm going to do this right in the rear.

  4. #29
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    If you're spending over $1000 on carbon rims why not get Shimanos with a the aluminum braking surface? I've had my 9000 C24s now for about 2000 miles and couldn't be happier. I admit it, I'm a clyde that rides his brakes downhill way too much.
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  5. #30
    got the climbing bug jsigone's Avatar
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    ^^ sounds like he's in about $500-550 plus another $100 for tires, $25 in glue and even another $70 for an extra cassette. Weights should be a 200g lighter then C24 and have aero advantages when over 20mph

    Hamster, try to toe in the pads using a CC or something as the shim when making the adjustment.
    ...mad as a box of frogs

  6. #31
    jmX
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    Quote Originally Posted by TJClay View Post
    If you're spending over $1000 on carbon rims why not get Shimanos with a the aluminum braking surface? I've had my 9000 C24s now for about 2000 miles and couldn't be happier. I admit it, I'm a clyde that rides his brakes downhill way too much.
    Well, C24's are great rims, but 1) they aren't nearly as aero as deeper rims, and 2) they aren't as sexy

    Seriously, Performance Bike had Firecrest Zipp 808's (and 404's) for $650-750each if you were paying attention this summer, that's $1400+tax for full carbon 808 clinchers. C24's don't make sense up against that deal IMO.

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by jsigone View Post
    ^^ sounds like he's in about $500-550 plus another $100 for tires, $25 in glue and even another $70 for an extra cassette. Weights should be a 200g lighter then C24 and have aero advantages when over 20mph

    Hamster, try to toe in the pads using a CC or something as the shim when making the adjustment.
    So far I'm up to $567.57 in hardware and $190.41 in disposables.

    Rims: $341.20
    Front hub: $44.99
    Spokes/nipples/washers (front): $67.91
    Spokes/nipples/washers (rear): $91.88
    Valve extenders: $21.59
    Brake pads: $32.95
    Tires and tape: $157.46 (went with relatively expensive tires and gluing tape instead of glue)

    Savings from buying everything piece by piece instead of getting full wheelset are marginal (if they exist at all). I paid $546 including shipping for the parts minus valve extenders, and I didn't buy the rear hub. Could have saved a few bucks if I ordered everything at once, in one or two shipments. Rim manufacturer has pre-assembled wheelsets for $598 with shipping.

    What's CC?
    Last edited by hamster; 10-16-13 at 03:05 PM.

  8. #33
    Senior Member GP's Avatar
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    credit card.

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