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  1. #1
    Cycle for life... woodcycl's Avatar
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    Photos of the new 05 Cannondale Road Tandem

    I've posted a few times about my first few experiences on the new 05' Cannondale Road Tandem. I don't have any photos yet of my stoker or me on the bike. But, I did take some photos tonight after finally finishing the following:

    1. Fizik Bar Gel
    2. Fizik Microtex Bar Tape
    3. Tandem East Stoker Bar & Stem Accessory add-on
    4. Shortened Captain's stem from Tandem East
    5. Captain's computer mount - Panoram V12 (I share with my single bike)
    6. Stoker's computer mount - Cateye Astrale 8 with cadence attached to captain's spider

    I have old Look pedals currently (about 15 yrs old), but they work for the time being. The only other item I plan on doing very soon per Mel with Tandem's East is adding the Inline Brake Travel Agent to help the Disc Brakes do their job as intended.

    Hopefully, I'll have some photos of us actually ON the bike soon.

    Thanks for looking!

    A few photos of the full bike sitting in the living room:







    Captains Saddle & Stoker's Custom stem and extension:



    Stoker's Custom stem and extension:



    Stoker's Cateye Astrale Cadence Mount to Captains Crank/Spider:



    View From Stoker's Seat:



    Captain's View:





    View of Computer sensors on Front Fork/Wheel:

    -\Brian
    06' Cannondale Six13 TeamOne
    06' Cannondale Prophet 3 "Lefty"
    92' Trek 5200
    05' Cannondale Road Tandem

  2. #2
    half man - half sheep Doggus's Avatar
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    Haa haa...let me guess...your tandem is going to stay somewhere in the house


    Our new bikes are in the front door area. They've been in a guest room, our bedroom...but never in the garage or outside for the night ::shudder::

    Nice bike...put some miles on that thing!!!
    "The cycling community is so small that it is nearly inbred." - Steve Tilford

  3. #3
    hors category TandemGeek's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodcycl
    Yikes

    To protect the frame's finish as well as to eliminate the potential for tubing deformation, let me suggest an alternative clamping location for your workstand.... the stoker's seatpost.
    Last edited by TandemGeek; 08-16-05 at 06:23 AM.

  4. #4
    Cycle for life... woodcycl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doggus
    Haa haa...let me guess...your tandem is going to stay somewhere in the house


    Our new bikes are in the front door area. They've been in a guest room, our bedroom...but never in the garage or outside for the night ::shudder::

    Nice bike...put some miles on that thing!!!
    Yeah, you got me there Doggus! All my bikes, with exception of my 13yr old mountain bike stay inside the house comfortably stashed on one of those vertical floor to ceiling bike stands from Nashbar ... and one sits next to the stand.

    I can't wait to put in some miles with my primary stoker on the thing ... she's sort of out of commission due to some confirmed poison ivy in the "wrong" place if you know what I mean. She's itching (pun "intended") to get back out again and can't wait.

    I look forward to giving the new Fizik Bar gel and bar tape the go around to see how well it does it's job. It sure does look good ... and can easily be wiped off if it gets dirty.


    From TandemGeek: To protect the frame's finish as well as to eliminate the potential for tubing deformation, let me suggest an alternative clamping location for your workstand.... the stoker's seatpost.
    Not a bad idea TandemGeek ... that is where I used to attach the stand to the bikes until this year. When all I'm doing is propping up the bike, it is much easier to let the bike "lay" in the horizontal/parallel jaws of the stand than to prop it to one of the seat posts. The jaws are pretty pliable and do help protect the finisht to some degree. If I plan on doing any real wrenching, etc. I'd use it on the seat post.
    -\Brian
    06' Cannondale Six13 TeamOne
    06' Cannondale Prophet 3 "Lefty"
    92' Trek 5200
    05' Cannondale Road Tandem

  5. #5
    hors category TandemGeek's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodcycl
    it is much easier to let the bike "lay" in the horizontal/parallel jaws of the stand than to prop it to one of the seat posts. The jaws are pretty pliable and do help protect the finisht to some degree.
    Didn't mean to be an alarmist, but seeing the brake cable pressed down against the frame by the clamp and having some experience with that particular pre-90's Blackburn folding rack, I felt it better to err on the side of urging caution vs. seeing yet another tandem with an unintentionally customized top tube.

  6. #6
    Cycle for life... woodcycl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TandemGeek
    Didn't mean to be an alarmist, but seeing the brake cable pressed down against the frame by the clamp and having some experience with that particular pre-90's Blackburn folding rack, I felt it better to err on the side of urging caution vs. seeing yet another tandem with an unintentionally customized top tube.
    Ahh ... I see TandemGeek. Yes, I agree with you. If the brake cable would have been obstructed, I would not have used the stand in this fashion. Luckily, the brake cable is not touching and all is good. I do appreciate it.
    -\Brian
    06' Cannondale Six13 TeamOne
    06' Cannondale Prophet 3 "Lefty"
    92' Trek 5200
    05' Cannondale Road Tandem

  7. #7
    Senior Member
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    Santos Dual Travel touring tandem, MSC Zion MTB-tandem, Santos SCC03 MTB, Santos STR01 trekking bike, Cannondale F500 MTB, Kalkhoff E-bike, Centurion Cross 4000 cyclocross bike (converted to road bike)
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    Quote Originally Posted by TandemGeek
    Yikes

    To protect the frame's finish as well as to eliminate the potential for tubing deformation, let me suggest an alternative clamping location for your workstand.... the stoker's seatpost.
    Hi, I'm a new forum member from the Netherlands. Please allow me to comment on the above quote: on our 1994 MT3000 there was a specific warning/notice sticker that it should be clamped right in the spot where Woodcyl has clamped it. Our present 2004 RT (bought almost-new) didn't come with a manual or stickers so I don't know if this still applies.

    The builders of our other tandem clamp all their bikes at the front seatpost. And why not, if the seatpost is inserted well into the seat tube it can't do too much harm (as long as you don't twist & rock the bike too much in the workstand). Or can it ...... ?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by dubbelop
    The builders of our other tandem clamp all their bikes at the front seatpost. And why not, if the seatpost is inserted well into the seat tube it can't do too much harm (as long as you don't twist & rock the bike too much in the workstand). Or can it ...... ?
    And as long as you don't have a carbon seatpost.

  9. #9
    hors category TandemGeek's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dubbelop
    The builders of our other tandem clamp all their bikes at the front seatpost. And why not, if the seatpost is inserted well into the seat tube it can't do too much harm (as long as you don't twist & rock the bike too much in the workstand). Or can it ...... ?
    Not surprising; back in '94 you could run a Cannondale tandem over with a car and they wouldn't dent. Seriously, clamping any bicycle by frame tubes is -- IMHO -- the least desireable approach I know of and, at a minimum, the clamp and/or surface to be clamped needs to be protected with a cloth or plastic wrap to prevent maring of the frame's finish or any decals. Adding bulk to the area to be clamped and noting that most tandems use oversized tubing further increases the risk of crimping a tube with a pre-tensioned clamp used primarily on 1/2 bikes.

    Back to captain's vs stoker's seat post...

    Yes, it is possible to clamp at the front seatpost; however:

    1. it requires you to lift the entire tandem to place it in the clamp (30 - 40lbs on average)
    2. because of the stoker stem, it usually requires the captain's seatpost to be raised -- sometimes quite a bit -- which can be further complicated if the stoker's bars are fitted with a wired-in computer
    3. it tends to be very unstable unless you remove the wheels and, frankly, there's not much you can do without the rear wheel with regard to drive train adjustments
    4. removing either of the wheels completely upsets the center of gravity
    5. given all of the foregoing, any wrenching on the bike usually causes the whole thing to twist back and forth in the clamp

    Clamping at the stoker's seatpost:

    1. requires only the rear of the tandem be lifted as the front wheel stays on the ground
    2. more than 1/2 of stoker's seatposts don't need to be raised to fit the clamp and if they do it's not complicated by computer wires or stoker stems, etc..
    3. tandems tend to be very stable when clamped by the stoker's seatpost since the tandem is also resting on the front wheel
    4. removing the rear wheel is a snap and the front wheel can be raised off the ground using a 5 gal bucket or homemade brace for front end work
    5. with the exception of removing the fork or headset, a tandem clamped by the stoker's seatpost is incredibly stable

    All of that said, I will clamp tandems at the captain's seatpost for initial assembly of a new tandem where the headset and/or fork have not yet been installed. However, once the headset is in, the stoker's seatpost goes on and then the front wheel is installed so that the tandem can be taken down and then reclamped at the stoker's seatpost for all of the reasons previously stated.
    Last edited by TandemGeek; 05-22-07 at 08:03 PM.

  10. #10
    hors category TandemGeek's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rmac
    And as long as you don't have a carbon seatpost.
    Why on Earth would a carbon seatpost be any more or a problem than the average aluminum Kalloy (who makes the posts for Ritchey and several other brands) or Zoom seatpost?

    Want to have some fun? Next time you need to hack-off a few excess inches from a carbon seatpost mast take a plastic mallet and see how hard you need to hit against it laying on a concrete floor to make it fail (careful, the hammer will recoil smartly). Now try the same thing with a section of your average aluminum seatpost mast.

  11. #11
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by TandemGeek
    Clamping at the stoker's seatpost:
    All of that said, I will clamp tandems at the captain's seatpost fir initial assembly of a new tandem where the headset and/or fork have not yet been installed. However, once the headset is in, the stoker's seatpost goes on and then the front wheel is installed so that the tandem can be taken down and then reclamped at the stoker's seatpost for all of the reasons previously stated.
    All very true and worth taking into account. Only when you want to work on the front brake you'll need to lift the front end somehow ...... BTW: my captain's seatpost and stoker stem are so far up that the clamp of my Park stand will fit just above the frame. But this is of course very much dependent on frame height vs. captain's stem extention vs. stoker stem height.

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