Hello all, and please pardon the newbie questions.
I've got a line on a 92 Burley Duet, sized 22/20 according to the seller. Before I drive all the way over there I'm wondering if it will fit. I ride a 58cm effective TT and my prospective stoker rides a 55cm eTT. Although 22/20 is not a current size, looking at the specs for a current Duet, a 22" front is a 57cm TT (I assume that's effective). That's good, I can live with that. But a 20" rear is a 70cm TT. What does that mean and how does it translate into stoker fit? Also, can I use these numbers on a bike built more than 10 years ago or has Burley changed its sizing significantly in the interim?
Thanks in advance, etc.
PS--Yes, I already read the 5'10" stoker w/ long arms thread. It helped, but I'm not sure I understood it all.
But a 20" rear is a 70cm TT. What does that mean and how does it translate into stoker fit?
If I'm understanding your question correctly, you're wondering about what looks like a very, very long top tube length for the stoker.
I believe that stoker compartment top tube length is usually measured between the two seat tubes. (Center to center?) The big trick is to remember to SUBTRACT the length of the stoker's handlebar stem when figuring how far forward the stoker's bars will be from the stoker's seat tube. This measurement will be roughly comparable (aside from stem angling) to the captain's top tube PLUS effective stem length -- just like on a single.
There are lots of options for stoker stems of very different lengths, so, as long as the compartment isn't too short, you should be able to adjust this dimension to fit pretty easily with a stem swap.
I've got a line on a 92 Burley Duet, sized 22/20 according to the seller. Before I drive all the way over there I'm wondering if it will fit.
The current specs for a Burley are not the same as the '92. The 22/20 relates to seat tube height, which you've probably figured out. However, with respect to the stoker's compartment, the older Burley's only used a 26.5" top tube which is pretty short although, at the time, it was about the norm. Santana has since gone to 27.75" which is "better" and Co-Motion now uses 28.5" for stoker top tubes which is much better, particularly for the taller stokers.
The shorter stoker compartments seem to be fine for most of the casual riders who prefer a more upright riding position and help to reduce "stoker steering" which is also welcomed by most casual riders. However, for more performance oriented riders -- and particularly stokers who are themselves cyclists -- the shorter stoker compartments will not allow them to replicate their 1/2 bike riding position without "spooning" the captain. Thus, this underscores the value of test rides, even for tire kickers who may be in the market for a used tandem, i.e., it may be worth taking a trip to a tandem dealer to test ride a few different brand/models of tandems to see what "feels" and "fits" best before deciding what you want to spend your $$ on. Also, it's worth noting that this is why I always suggest that folks look at their first tandem as just that; their first tandem. After deciding if tandeming is something you'll enjoy you can then figure out what you like and don't like about your first tandem to help guide your 2nd tandem purchase.
Thanks for both of those responses. Just the info I was looking for. Sounds like this one may be a bit short, but the price is right so its still worth a look. My other prospective stoker is only 6, so I'm thinking the bike will at least fit him.
A follow up question if you don't mind. Turns out I'll have the option of a 24/21 or a 22/20. The captain's compartment on those two sizes falls on either side of my single size, and I would instinctively go for the larger frame for added comfort on long rides. But I also recognize that I'll be holding up the stoker when stopped, something that will be easier with a smaller frame.
Given that, how much standover should I be looking for?