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  1. #1
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    Chain for a triple

    Hi,

    Thanks for the advice on the 48 wheels. We order a new rim from precision Tandems. This weekend the problem was the chain. We were running an almost new Dura Ace 10 sp chain and it bended on us for no apparent reason.... other than a 12% hill that we hamered... but with no shifting under pressure or chain crossover. Is there a sturdier chain that we should be using on the drive side of the triple?
    Thanks

  2. #2
    hors category TandemGeek's Avatar
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    What do you mean by "bended"?

    Are you still riding out of phase?
    Last edited by TandemGeek; 08-20-06 at 03:48 PM.

  3. #3
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    The triple we ride on phase. I am hesitant to try OOP on the triple because the mid stokers that we get changes from ride to ride. Our older daughter is the most consistent but she lives near San Francisco and comes home every other weekend... sort of. After finishing one steep hill, we noticed that the shifting was not right. First we tought that the shifting cable had gotten lose but after a few minutes of triying to adjust it with no poitive results, we noticed that one of the links had a bend. We took the link out and installed a master link and the sifting worked fine afterwards.

  4. #4
    hors category TandemGeek's Avatar
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    OK, now I'm really confused. Are you running a 10 speed set-up on your cabrio or did you just decide to use a DA 10 speed chain on 9 speed?

    If it's the latter, just use a DA/XTR 9 speed chain.

    If you're running Santana's new 10 speed wide range stuff, I'm not sure there's another 10 speed chain that I'd recommend over Shimano's; they're pretty durable. The weakness is usually the one-time-use pins which can be replaced with a 10 speed compatible SuperLink III reuseable master link. Other than that, ask Santana for their recommendation.

    As for how it may have gotten "bent", as before I'm unstill sure if you're talking about a sideplate buckling (in) or bulging (out); regardless, if you didn't have a bout of chain suck or drop the chain into the BB, I suspect that it had to happen while being shifted under a load at some point, perhaps momentarily jammed at the front derailleur or catching on a sprocket.

    Finally, back to the in-phase (IP) out-of-phase (OOP) deal, I'd be more inclined to use it on the triplet if you're already riding that way on your two-seater.
    Last edited by TandemGeek; 08-22-06 at 07:59 AM.

  5. #5
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    TandemGeek,
    An experienced LBS owner/mechanic and tandem rider told me to use the DA 10 sp chain on my 9 speed Ultegra/XTR tandem. My triple has the exact same components and I assumed the DA 10 sp chain would work too. We have used that chain in the tandem and we are very happy with it. We'll get a DA/XTR 9 speed chain for the triple and give it a try.

    We were thinking about going OOP on the triple. Maybe 0 - 45 - 90 the captain leading. Two issues stop us from doing it. First, stading together OOP is like dancing. Me and my wife, no problem; We and our 24 year old, 5'11", 135 lb daughter...maybe OK; we and our experienced male friend, 5'10", 140 lb... ???; we and our 15 year old, 6'1", 170 lb daughter...no way. The other issue is pedals making contact with the ground while cornering or going over speed bumps.

  6. #6
    hors category TandemGeek's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cornucopia72
    TandemGeek,
    An experienced LBS owner/mechanic and tandem rider told me to use the DA 10 sp chain on my 9 speed Ultegra/XTR tandem. ... We were thinking about going OOP on the triple. Maybe 0 - 45 - 90 the captain leading. Two issues stop us from doing it.
    DA 10 is a nice narrow chain and it doesn't really compromise strength vs. the DA/XTR 9 speed chains so it "should" be OK but, not having used one on 9 speed, I'm not sure how it might hold up under the load of a very heavy tandem duo or on a triplet. That said, I"m not sure I'd spend the extra $$ to use one on a 9 speed bike. In fact, I use DA/XTR 9 speed chains (I stock up when Performance puts them on sale) on our 9 speed road and off-road tandems as well as our 10 speed Campy-equipped bikes for that very reason, i.e., they're narrow enough and less expensive than Campy's C10 chains.

    As for OOP, the 0 - 45 - 90 set-up sounds right and while you can usually figure out the proper orientation for the captain's cranks to keep the stoker and tail gunner's pedal out of harms way in a corner or when broaching speed bumps, that standing thing can really be a tough nut to crack.

  7. #7
    Time for a change. stapfam's Avatar
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    I ride off road and our chains go through a lot of Punishment. I have a chain that I am happy with and I use that but the only chain I have ever broken was one suggested by my LBS as being the best for my use. When it broke, and it had only been on a couple of weeks, The side plate had come apart from the pin. Ok- perhaps I had not joined it properly, but that did not account for 4 other sideplates that were in the same condition. Durace chains may be good but not for me- That was the chain I had fitted and it is the chain that caused me problems. I'll stick to my XT grade of chain.
    How long was I in the army? Five foot seven.


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  8. #8
    hors category TandemGeek's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stapfam
    I'll stick to my XT grade of chain.
    Yup, the Ultegra/XT HG93s are also a good choice as are some of SRAMs chains which I'll also keep an eye on for sale pricing. Although, the SRAM tend to get relegated to timing chain or off-road drive chain use with our SRAM X.0 stuff as they're a bit more wide than the Shimano chains. Normally that wouldn't be an issue on a 9 speed road bike, but given that I "cheat" and use Campy 9 speed shifters/rear derailleur with a Shimano 9 speed cassette the slighly more narrow chains seem to make less noise than all of the other 9 speed chains that I've used over the years.

  9. #9
    pan y agua merlinextraligh's Avatar
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    I don't see why you'd want to put a 10 speed chain on 9 speed componets. Because the chain is narrower, there is a greater chance of the chain breaking, particularly at the pin where the chain is put together. There have been a fair number of anectdotal reports of 10 speed chains failing on single bikes. I don't think I would put one on a 9 speed tandem, particularly if Iwas looking for greater strength/durability.

  10. #10
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    I tend to agree with all the posters. Narrower chains can work fine, but by definition demand tighter manufacturing tolerances to get the same reliability, so will either cost more or fail more.

    IMO people liking different brands is because every so often a batch of 'Friday' chains slips through. On these the links will crack or sideplates fall off at random because the chain making machine was out of adjustment and there's not a lot you can do about it other than inspecting the chain every few rides. You do need to be careful not to blame the chain unfairly, since a bashed tooth or bit of jammed debris can easily damage a chain.

    Worst I've had was about 10 years ago when our cycling club ordered a set of 10 chains, of which about 8 came apart over the next couple of months, ruining quite a lot of club runs. More recently a home made cadence magnet managed to jump off the pedal axle and stick to the chain, causing some odd shifting until I worked out what had happened.

  11. #11
    BudLight
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    Ahh for the good old days when men were men, draft beers were 50 cents, and chains were chains.

    I’ve already torched the Shimano and KMC chains that came with my tandem this year. A LBS here in town sent back an entire shipment of SRAM PC- *9’s this year that were failing out of the box, apparently due to “Friday mfg.”

    An old style 8-speed SRAM timing chain and an SRAM hollow pin 9-speed drive chain seem to be holding up now. But I bless them profusely before and after each ride. I dearly miss the old Sedis 6,7,and 8 speed chains. Matter of fact, I dearly miss my old 7 and 8-speed friction drives. The price of progress, I guess.

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