Lemond Chambery/Cannondale R-900/Trek 8000 MTB/Burley Duet tandem
Get spd for her too! She never unclips at stops anyways. You support the bike at stops while she sets the pedals to a start position for you. She doesn't need to unclip.
Also, if you ride single and tandem as I do, it tkesa gbit of getting used to. If I stop pealing immediately as I do on my siongle, I jam her legs. So I ner stop abruptly.
If she doesn't have spd's, her feet will go flying off if you happen to stop pedalling suddenly. And you know what happens, whack of the shins with the pedals!..Feet wil fly out of toe clips too. Trust me, you don't want to live with the guilt!
I've made arrangements to buy a T100... Trying to remember the year, it's mid-late 90s if I remember correctly...7 speed freewheel...
Odds are that it's early '90s and has a 7 speed freeHUB. Consider getting a set of 3x9 Shimano shift/brake levers, if you like them, and put eight cogs from a nine speed cassette onto your freehub. Works great!
Put 3,000 miles on our 1993ish T100 in 2005, and have done 2,900 miles on it so far in 2006. A competent tandem! Here is ours at the end of Saturday's 87-mile ride:
We have a T100, had to replace the original cantilever brakes for V-brakes, the rear cantilever was very hard to adjust properly. I'd say you are going to want to change the downtube shifters. I have the original straight handlebars with handlebar grip shifters, We do go on dirt roads, so I think we will stick to this set up and not go to drop bars, though I miss the Shimano 105 set on my road bike. and need to find some sort of extensions to shift hand positions. But you don't want downtube shifters, best keep both hands on the handlebars as much as possible. Also I find it that I shift more often on a tandem than on the road bike, because standing on the pedals of a tandem is less efficient, so I quick and easy shifting is even more important in a Tandem. I will eventually add rear drum brake as was suggested to me on this board.
What I like about the T100 is the ride, very smooth yet a good stiff frame. It is on the heavy side however. Can I ask what you paid for your T100? It cost us $1200. , classic case of the stoker selling the bike after 100 miles. It was essentially a brand new factory rig, Treck could have sold it with better seats, seat posts and stems. Don't know if that was a good price or not, had to make a quick decission.
Sorry to resurrect this long-dead thread, but I've recently come into possession of this exact model bike.
The previous owner wants me to place a value on it, but I'm clueless.
It is in rather rough shape, been sitting in the back of a garage for a decade, so it needs a complete overhaul. Lots of rust on the shiny parts: pedals, crankset, etc. Rear brake/shifter unit is broken also. Need to replace the chains, cables, tubes, tires, shifter, pedals... needs bearings repacked, the works!
- any thoughts? would $300 be a decent value? I know that sounds low, but it really needs some work. I could provide some pics if needed.