Need help with size of tandem.
Need help with size of tandem.
I would guess XL/M, but your local c'dale dealer should be able to help you, as there are more factors than just height (inseam, reach, physical limitations and flexibility, etc.).
My pilot is 6'3" and I am 5'6" We have an L/M frame Depends on if you want a stokers Suspension post- in which case you have to allow for the extra length of that post, and also how much you extend the legs when riding. Lots of variables but Pic attached of our set up. This bike fits both of us and we did not like the next size up at all. We like plenty of Standover height and to be honest- we do not have enough. Silly as it may seem seeing how much seat post is out of the frame. Difference is that this bike is set up for our riding style and we like it.Originally Posted by rickscott
How long was I in the army? Five foot seven.
what size top tube is on your single road bike? the rear size doesn't matter too much since the top tube length is usually the same no matter the seat tube size is and you wife is tall enough to fit most sizes. choose what's closest your road bike. i'm 5'11" and my wife is 5'7" or 5'8" and i bought a small burley with a 56 cm top tube since my road bike has a 55.5 cm top tube. the tandem has a 110mm stem while the the road bike 120mm to put me in roughly same position.
i just looked at the cannondale website. its kinda tough, one seems too small the l/s with a 56 cm top tube and the x/s or x/m with a 60.4 cm top tube. that's a big jump between sizes. if the larger one fits the medium rear will probably fit your wife better as it has a longer top than the small rear
We have a 2002 C'dale RT3000. I am 5'10" and my wife is 5'2" and we have an XL/S.
The XL is a little big for me so we got a shorter handlebar stem and a straight seat post. The distances between seat, handlebar and cranks are now exactly the same as my Trek 56cm frame except that the handlebars are about 1" higher on the tandem.
It took a while to get the setup right and I had some repetitive strain injuries from previous tours (calves and achillies tendon) but after having ridden it 550km last week on a tour I feel fine so I must have got it right.
the distance from the saddle to cranks might be the same the but the distance the saddle sits behind the cranks is not and for me its unacceptable as i have longer arms and legs and a short upper body that require me to have the seat set well back and after more than 20 years of refining my position i wouldn't want to radically alter it so that i would fit the bike instead the bike fitting me.Originally Posted by AdelaideTandem
Sorry, I wasn't specific enough.Originally Posted by zzzwillzzz
I use a plumb line to ensure that the seat is the same distance behind the pedals as my road bike and also measure the distance from the centre of the cranks to the seat rail (I have the same seat for each bike and mark a line on the rail to measure to).
To get the seat forward I needed to replace the seat post with a straight one. I use a Thompson Elite aluminium seat post. I was a little concerned about a change in angle because of the higher handlebars but after being on a tour last week and riding 550km I feel fine and think that I have finally got it right.
I know where you are coming from when it comes to not compromising with position on the bike. I made the mistake in the past of not realising the bike had longer cranks (duh) and I was also using different pedals to my road bike. It meant that despite having what I thought was the same setup I was pointing my toe at the end of each downstroke. After 2 days I was really paying for it with calf pain and it took a few months for my achilles tendons to recover.
your wife needs the top tube of the M,so I would say the X/M.
I'm 6',wife is 5/6",we have the X/M.The front seems to be a 60cm TT,not 60.5 if that helps.
We bought the X/S first,and the wife was kinda cramped.She likes the M rear better.
Also,I prefer the higher top tube of the X/M beacause it makes it easier to crouch down and stabilize the bike during mounts/dismounts. The top tube was waay low on the X/S for me.
Cannondale needs to resize the front of these frames-a 4 cm top tube jump is dumb=it should have a ~59cm top tube in the X front.
We are about 75 miles south of Pittsburgh PA if you are anywhere close and want to try it.