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  1. #1
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    Calfee brake installation issues

    I don't why I waited so long but I tried a test installation of the Mavic SSC brakes today.
    I was not able to install either the front or the back.
    On the front the allen bolt that came with the brakes is too short to reach through fork.
    I guess this is typical with carbon forks. I see 22mm and 30mm bolts online.
    The 22m looks like it might be too short because it might engage only 4 or 5 threads.
    Anybody with an Alpha Q fork know what their bolt size is?

    On the rear the hole in the brake bridge has a sudden change in diameter right on the end facing the rear of the bike. The brake will not fit through, not even close. I thought maybe it could be paint build up, but it seems too much for that.
    Of course I will be contacting Calfee on Monday.

    Here are some pics:

    http://yfrog.com/16calfeebrakebridge002jx

  2. #2
    hors category TandemGeek's Avatar
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    I'm using a 28.5mm brake nut for a Campy Record Caliper on an X2 Fork, which was much longer than the one provided with the fork.

    On the rear brake, our frame's rear brake bolt hole is 6mm and the nut side is 8mm. The Campy calipers use a 6mm brake bolt. How does your brake bolt hole and SSC brake bolt measure out?

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by TandemGeek View Post
    I'm using a 28.5mm brake nut for a Campy Record Caliper on an X2 Fork, which was much longer than the one provided with the fork.

    On the rear brake, our frame's rear brake bolt hole is 6mm and the nut side is 8mm. The Campy calipers use a 6mm brake bolt. How does your brake bolt hole and SSC brake bolt measure out?
    I did not realize the fork came with a long nut. I found it in a bag and its 30mm and works fine.

    The SSC brake bolt is 6mm, the hole in the brake bridge on the frame is 5mm. I can't decide if its paint clogging the hole or something else. From the picture I took from the back side it looks metallic. In any case the brake is not going into that hole as it is.

    Thanks for the help.

  4. #4
    hors category TandemGeek's Avatar
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    It's paint.... I went back and looked at your photos.

    You should be able to clean it out with a little light sanding or an exacto knife.

  5. #5
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    I used a Dremel with a small grinder bit. Had to take quite a bit off.
    The next thing I noticed is there is a very short distance and tight bend from the cable stop on the frame to rear brake.
    I am not sure if it will be a problem. Here is a pic with Campy cable housing.

  6. #6
    hors category TandemGeek's Avatar
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    If it works, it works. In other words, if the brake housing doesn't push the brake caliper off of center and the brake cable doesn't bind, then it's OK.

    However, if it turns out to be a balky set-up there are a couple options.

    You can do what Craig thought we'd do with ours and use Nokon compressionless housing to make a nice S-curve bend.

    Since the S-bend on our Calfee was too severe for the Nokon solution I came up with the 'round-the-world' installation and used a longer piece of brake cable housing to loop the brake line around the stoker's seat post. It looks unusual but it works just fine.





    No, this is not an optical illusion. I changed out the polished Campy Record brakes, seat post clamps and headset for black Record Skeleton brakes, seat post clamps and a black headset after about a month or so.
    Last edited by TandemGeek; 01-24-10 at 08:37 PM.

  7. #7
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    I noticed your brake seems closer to the seat cluster than mine.
    I wonder why since my frame is a small and I am guessing yours is too.
    If the standard housing doesn't work, I will try the Nokon.
    I don't really want to do the wrap around although I can see you probably had no other choice.
    Seems like Calfee should position the cable stop further away from the brake.
    Thanks for the tips.

  8. #8
    hors category TandemGeek's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jnbrown View Post
    I noticed your brake seems closer to the seat cluster than mine. I wonder why since my frame is a small and I am guessing yours is too.
    The brake IS closer to the cluster on our frame. Our frame uses short stays and custom geometry similar to what we had on our Erickson tandems, to include a 30" rear stoker compartment and a steeply sloping top tube which causes the rear seat stays to have a much more acute / smaller angle than most other Calfees.



    Quote Originally Posted by jnbrown View Post
    Seems like Calfee should position the cable stop further away from the brake.
    It's all about trade-offs. Ours is where it is because I asked for the brake cable to be run down low on the top tube instead of down the middle or up high. I had it up high on our Erickson travel tandem and it was always in the way and running down the middle of the top tube wasn't any better. So, given that (a) it's below the centerline of the top tube and (b) because the stop had to be behind the S&S coupler and (c) like you I have the option of running a disc or a caliper rim brake, my funky geometry drove a funky rear rim brake installation. Again, it works just fine the way it is and when I run the rear disc the cable run is perfect. Moreover, the larger the frame the less of a problem it becomes and even on your small-size frame it's really not a major problem. It's really only a major constraint on the smaller frames with the longer custom stoker compartment with steeply sloping top tube like ours and there are only a handful of those.
    Last edited by TandemGeek; 01-25-10 at 09:07 AM.

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