Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Tandem Cycling A bicycle built for two. Want to find out more about this wonderful world of tandems? Check out this forum to talk with other tandem enthusiasts. Captains and stokers welcome!

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-22-10, 06:54 PM   #1
jaywbee3 
jaywbee3
Thread Starter
 
jaywbee3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Southern New Hampshire
Bikes: Surly LTH, Burley Duet, Trek 7300
Posts: 62
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Help needed for late 80s Burley Duet duel brake lever and cable replacement

I recently purchased a late 80s/ early 90s Burley Duet. I love the bike but I need to replace the brake cables. The left brake lever operates the drum brake and the right lever operates both the front and back rim brakes. I am not sure how to go about replacing the cables on the right lever. It look like both cables go into the lever but I am not sure if they are a special design or if I can use regular cables. Has anyone replaced these and what advice can you give me?

Thanks!

jaybee3
jaywbee3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-10, 12:14 AM   #2
WillFam-Reno
WillFam-Clovis,CA
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Clovis, CA
Bikes: Triplet, Gitane Tndm, Trek 660 & Trek MTB
Posts: 172
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
My 80's Gitane was set up this same way. If your ride is anything like mine, the Aria drum brake is just not very good at stopping quickly, and the right lever controlling both front and rear rim brakes needs a lot of effort to put enough force on the brake lever to effect a quick stop. Depending on the location of your shifters, if you're not using bar-end shifters, you might try putting the drum on a bar-end shift lever and separate the front rim brake to the left lever and rear rim brake to the right lever (unless you're located in England or similar locale). If you are using bar-end shifters, some have given the drag brake duties to the stoker with the understanding that it will only be used at the direction of the captain unless going straight.
The convensional wisdom is that the drum brake is only really useful as a drag brake when traversing down long hills, and you wish to keep your speed down without overheating the rims. The drum brake is capable of absorbing a lot of heat.
If you wish to keep the brake setup as is, I recall that the right lever has a special adapter built in that allows two normal cable ends to fit in right next to each other. Only the rear needs to be of tandem length, as the front rim brake is a short run, just as any other normally configured upright bicycle.
Hope that helps.
WillFam-Reno is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-10, 06:10 AM   #3
TandemGeek
hors category
 
TandemGeek's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Bikes:
Posts: 7,210
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
They use regular cables; the brake lever -- probably a Diacompe 287T -- simply has two cable stops in the lever body instead of one. The top position (more mech adv.) should be used for the front brake and the bottom for the rear IF you really want to keep the bike set up this way.

My recommendation would be to as WillFam-Reno suggests and update your brake configuration so that the brake levers are only controlling the front & rear brakes and then:

(a) make sure you really need the drag brake, i.e., you'll be doing some long, technical descents that require constant braking or will have a very heavy load on the tandem and riding some steep descents; if so
(b) pay a visit to the Precision Tandems Arai Information Page and scroll down to the Actuation Methods to see which method would work best for your tandem.
TandemGeek is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-10, 09:35 AM   #4
steve53mg
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Long Island, NY
Bikes: Serotta Legend Ti, Santa Cruz Heckler, Santana Visa TAndem
Posts: 198
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I sold a Burley Duet a few months ago, which was set up as you described. I have to say that, even though I really didn't need the drum brake, the dual cable setup worked quite
steve53mg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-10, 11:08 AM   #5
jaywbee3 
jaywbee3
Thread Starter
 
jaywbee3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Southern New Hampshire
Bikes: Surly LTH, Burley Duet, Trek 7300
Posts: 62
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks for the information and the advise. This bike is being used for leisurely weekend rides and breakfast runs to local restaurants so there will not be a lot of technical descents. I am raising the handle bars so I need to add a few inches to all of the cables. Up to this point the stock brake system has worked well, so I will try to keep the bike as stock as possible but I will consider the thumb shifter if I run into problems.

Thanks again!
jaywbee3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-10, 11:25 AM   #6
TandemGeek
hors category
 
TandemGeek's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Bikes:
Posts: 7,210
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Just remember, stock cables = stock tandem length rear brake cable.
TandemGeek is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-10, 08:02 PM   #7
merlinextraligh
pan y agua
 
merlinextraligh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Jacksonville
Bikes: Wilier Zero 7; Merlin Extralight; Co-Motion Robusta; Schwinn Paramount; Motobecane Phantom Cross; Cervelo P2; Motebecane Ti Fly 29er; Calfee Dragonfly Tandem
Posts: 29,126
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 19 Post(s)
we had an early 90's Burley Duet set up that way. It took a lot of hand strength to stop the bike. Unless the cables are adjusted precisely, you 're going to have to really compress one brake before the other is firmly engaged.

Thus I would definitely second TG's advice.
__________________
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
merlinextraligh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-10, 08:32 PM   #8
MnHPVA Guy
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Bikes:
Posts: 754
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by WillFam-Reno View Post
If your ride is anything like mine, the Aria drum brake is just not very good at stopping quickly
That depends on how well the brake has been set up.

The worst brake I've ever used was an Aria drum. I could barely detect any ***********, squeezing lever hard as I could

The best brake I've ever used was an Aria drum. In 1983 Bill McReady lent me the prototype for the Santana triple. When he told me he usually just used the drum for stopping I thought he was kidding. Then I rode it. Smooth yet powerful.

BTW nothing quite like a triplet with a couple of featherweight USCF riders, age 14 and 16 on the back.
MnHPVA Guy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-10, 09:02 AM   #9
steve53mg
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Long Island, NY
Bikes: Serotta Legend Ti, Santa Cruz Heckler, Santana Visa TAndem
Posts: 198
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Hey, I see that my reply got cut-off. I sold a Duet that I rode for about 20 years, equipped with the Arai drag brake and both cantilever brakes routed to the right lever. I agree with Merlinextralight...it was very wearing on my right hand! I set it up so it would engage the rear SLIGHTLY before the front. It did work quite well, but on my new bike, a slightly newer Santana with the same type of levers, I opted not to mount a drum and went with xtr v-brakes (w/problem solver amplifiers), which give me good stopping power. If I travel to the mountains (maybe with my NEXT stoker), I could easily mount a drum and use a friction lever to actuate it. My advice is: If you don't anticipate very long descents and are not much heavier than average, I would save the considerable weight and remove the the drum and reroute the front brake to the left lever. It is a simple matter to revert back in the future. To repeat, the rear brake cable is 300mm tandem legnth, and the drum is the same. Don't forget, if you switch to a barcon or other friction (shifting) lever, you will be using a tandem length SHIFT cable. Always good practice to keep a few tandem cables on your shelf. If you break one, they are not stocked everywhere!
steve53mg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-10, 05:04 AM   #10
jaywbee3 
jaywbee3
Thread Starter
 
jaywbee3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Southern New Hampshire
Bikes: Surly LTH, Burley Duet, Trek 7300
Posts: 62
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
FYI - I cut the cables and removed them from the brake lever. The cables ARE a special design with both the front and back cables meeting at one head. Now I will either need to use one of the previous suggestions, purchase a Dia compe 287T, or try to find a source for a direct replacement. The brake lever is a Dia compe BSR Blaze. Does anyone have a suggestion for a tandem shop that might stock replacements for this cable?
jaywbee3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-10, 07:40 AM   #11
TandemGeek
hors category
 
TandemGeek's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Bikes:
Posts: 7,210
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaywbee3 View Post
FYI - I cut the cables and removed them from the brake lever. The cables ARE a special design with both the front and back cables meeting at one head. Now I will either need to use one of the previous suggestions, purchase a Dia compe 287T, or try to find a source for a direct replacement. The brake lever is a Dia compe BSR Blaze. Does anyone have a suggestion for a tandem shop that might stock replacements for this cable?
My apologies; I've never seen anything like that before.

How are the brake cable housings seated at the brake lever? Are there two cable stops in the lever body? I'd love to see a photo of this.

Anyway, as to alternatives that would allow you to keep this dual control set-up, there are probably three or four tandem dealers who would have such a cable if it was a legitimate offering and not a home-cooked solution: Larry Black at Mt Airy Cycles (www.bike123.com), Mel Kornbluh @ Tandems East (www.tandemseast.com) or Rich Shapiro at Gear-to-Go Tandems (www.gtgtandems.com) or Mark Johnson at Precision Tandems (www.precisiontandems.com). Jack Goertz would be a long-shot at Tandems Ltd. (www.tandemsltd.com).

There is another alternative to buying the DiaCompe 287T or a direct replacement cable (and really, this is a new one on me), and that's the Problem Solver Cable Doubler 1:2. You can find the instructions for it here: http://www.problemsolversbike.com/images/DoublerOne.pdf

Tree Fort seemed to have the lowest price: http://www.treefortbikes.com/product...e-Doubler.html

P.S. Why did you cut the cables instead of just extracting them from the levers and housing?

Last edited by TandemGeek; 03-28-10 at 08:03 AM.
TandemGeek is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-10, 08:18 AM   #12
Retro Grouch 
Senior Member
 
Retro Grouch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Rans Rockst (Retro rocket) Rans Enduro Sport (Retro racket) Catrike 559, Merin Bear Valley (beater bike).
Posts: 26,614
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 88 Post(s)
[QUOTE=TandemGeek;10588050P.S. Why did you cut the cables instead of just extracting them from the levers and housing?[/QUOTE]

He said he was raising the handlebars and was going to need some additional length anyway.
Retro Grouch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-10, 05:40 PM   #13
jaywbee3 
jaywbee3
Thread Starter
 
jaywbee3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Southern New Hampshire
Bikes: Surly LTH, Burley Duet, Trek 7300
Posts: 62
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I have ordered the DiaCompe 287 Tandem levers and will let you know how they work out.
Thanks for all of the suggestions.
jaywbee3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-10, 08:49 AM   #14
jaywbee3 
jaywbee3
Thread Starter
 
jaywbee3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Southern New Hampshire
Bikes: Surly LTH, Burley Duet, Trek 7300
Posts: 62
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Here are the photos of the brake lever and the cable. I believe that this is original equipment that came with the Burley Duet.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg HPIM2598.jpg (93.5 KB, 11 views)
File Type: jpg HPIM2594.jpg (85.6 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg HPIM2597.jpg (94.5 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg HPIM2592.jpg (86.6 KB, 10 views)
jaywbee3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-10, 01:19 AM   #15
jaywbee3 
jaywbee3
Thread Starter
 
jaywbee3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Southern New Hampshire
Bikes: Surly LTH, Burley Duet, Trek 7300
Posts: 62
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I found a replacement cable at College Park Bicycle (sister shop to Mt Ayre Bicycles)! I will be installing it tomorrow hope to ride in the afternoon.
jaywbee3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:34 AM.