Gates belt drive, opinions?
#27
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We've taken the bike on 2 trips since we installed the belt, Oregon, including the Co-Motion Classic Tandem Stage race, and a weekend in North Georgia for the Six Gap Century.
Both times we simply packed the original timing rings, and a timiing chain. Admittedly if the belt failed you couldn't fix it in the field, but with a 5 minute repair you'd be good to go as soon as you got back to the hotel.
Both times we simply packed the original timing rings, and a timiing chain. Admittedly if the belt failed you couldn't fix it in the field, but with a 5 minute repair you'd be good to go as soon as you got back to the hotel.
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Friction facts tested a Gates Carbon Drive and found that it consumes 34.6% more power when compared to a traditional single speed chain drive.
I've asked them to re-test this at equally high tensions to see if the result is the same as I know some tandem riders need to run very high timing chain tension to keep it on and that might make a difference to the results.
I've asked them to re-test this at equally high tensions to see if the result is the same as I know some tandem riders need to run very high timing chain tension to keep it on and that might make a difference to the results.
The Friction Facts results were obtained with the belt set up at the Gates recommended preload of 85 lbs. Their report refers to the belt as the CDS version. I'm assuming this is the CDC belt and not the CDX. It would be interesting to see the CDX system tested at some different preload values below the 85 lb. setup. I'm guessing the differences between the chain drive and the belt drive systems would narrow considerably at lower tension settings for the CDX belt.
Curt
Last edited by Krenovian; 09-08-13 at 10:32 AM.
#29
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thanks for posting this note. For a moment I thought it was just me. I ran into the very same thing. I backed off the tension and completely changed the feel of the bike.
When I first set up our belt drive, the CDX CenterTrack version, I set the tension to approx. what was recommended on the Gates website for the CDC version. At this tension a significant amount of effort was required to spin the cranks compared to a timing chain setup on the bike stand. I backed the tension way off and this made it much easier to spin the cranks. I don't have any quantitative data but qualitatively it now feels similar to a timing chain setup. I don't think there is much room to decrease the tension on the CDC version but the CDX version allows for quite a bit of variation with out any problems with the belt slipping or coming off the rings and where you set the tension for the belt will make a huge difference in the effort required to spin the cranks. I don't know how the tension we are running will impact belt wear in the long term.
Curt
Curt
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The Friction Facts results were obtained with the belt set up at the Gates recommended preload of 85 lbs. Their report refers to the belt as the CDS version. I'm assuming this is the CDC belt and not the CDX. It would be interesting to see the CDX system tested at some different preload values below the 85 lb. setup. I'm guessing the differences between the chain drive and the belt drive systems would narrow considerably at lower tension settings for the CDX belt.
Curt
Curt
#31
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Friction facts tested a Gates Carbon Drive and found that it consumes 34.6% more power when compared to a traditional single speed chain drive.
I've asked them to re-test this at equally high tensions to see if the result is the same as I know some tandem riders need to run very high timing chain tension to keep it on and that might make a difference to the results.
I've asked them to re-test this at equally high tensions to see if the result is the same as I know some tandem riders need to run very high timing chain tension to keep it on and that might make a difference to the results.
IMO, the only real advantage to the belt is not getting chain marks on my clothing when loading and unloading the bike from a vehicle, and the ability to put stuff on top of the NDS of the bike when it's laid flat. I do miss those things. I have a discarded medical smock I wear to load and unload the bike, to the amusement on onlookers. I suppose I should also put on a pair of latex gloves. Once mounted of course getting a tattoo is not an issue.
Gates replaced our rings and belt under warranty, but would only replace with CDC, not CDX, so the warranty parts will just sit there, since there are losses and they'd just wear out again in a few months. I can't see spending the money on a CDX setup, since the rings obviously wear much faster than a 9-speed timing chain.
#32
Senior Member
Carbonfiberboy said, "Gates replaced our rings and belt under warranty, but would only replace with CDC, not CDX, so the warranty parts will just sit there, since there are losses and they'd just wear out again in a few months. I can't see spending the money on a CDX setup, since the rings obviously wear much faster than a 9-speed timing chain."
We have over 5,500 miles on our CDX drive, I did replace the initial belt after picking up some foreign object that caused it to partially come off the pulley. Gates said that it might be OK but, recommended that it be replaced. The belt had around 4,000 miles on it. 4,000 miles is about what we would have gotten out of the chain. The advantages that I see for the belt is it clean, quiet, lighter weight (it reduced the weight of the bike by 1/2 pound) and hopefully it will have a long life. Similar belts last thousands of miles as timing belts on many current automobile engines. The CDX rings at 5,500 miles are not showing any wear.
Wayne
We have over 5,500 miles on our CDX drive, I did replace the initial belt after picking up some foreign object that caused it to partially come off the pulley. Gates said that it might be OK but, recommended that it be replaced. The belt had around 4,000 miles on it. 4,000 miles is about what we would have gotten out of the chain. The advantages that I see for the belt is it clean, quiet, lighter weight (it reduced the weight of the bike by 1/2 pound) and hopefully it will have a long life. Similar belts last thousands of miles as timing belts on many current automobile engines. The CDX rings at 5,500 miles are not showing any wear.
Wayne
#33
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Good example of different strokes for different folks:
Carbonfiberboy in the Pacific Northwest rides a lot in the rain and finds the belt setup not durable enough.
DubT has no durability issues but if I recall correctly rides much less in the rain.
We only load the bike in the car once every few months so the advantage of the clean belt in the car is minimized. We also wax our chains so I don't use gloves when working with the chain. Any very small amount of black transferred from the chain wipes my off fingers very easily with a rag.
Carbonfiberboy in the Pacific Northwest rides a lot in the rain and finds the belt setup not durable enough.
DubT has no durability issues but if I recall correctly rides much less in the rain.
We only load the bike in the car once every few months so the advantage of the clean belt in the car is minimized. We also wax our chains so I don't use gloves when working with the chain. Any very small amount of black transferred from the chain wipes my off fingers very easily with a rag.
#34
Clipless in Coeur d'Alene
Good example of different strokes for different folks:
Carbonfiberboy in the Pacific Northwest rides a lot in the rain and finds the belt setup not durable enough.
DubT has no durability issues but if I recall correctly rides much less in the rain.
We only load the bike in the car once every few months so the advantage of the clean belt in the car is minimized. We also wax our chains so I don't use gloves when working with the chain. Any very small amount of black transferred from the chain wipes my off fingers very easily with a rag.
Carbonfiberboy in the Pacific Northwest rides a lot in the rain and finds the belt setup not durable enough.
DubT has no durability issues but if I recall correctly rides much less in the rain.
We only load the bike in the car once every few months so the advantage of the clean belt in the car is minimized. We also wax our chains so I don't use gloves when working with the chain. Any very small amount of black transferred from the chain wipes my off fingers very easily with a rag.
Additionally, I recently made an inquiry with FSA support tech and the Gates topic came up. Let's just say that FSA was much aware of belt tensioning and that, in their opinion, too many people overtension their belts which results is premature BB bearing wearout.
FWIW, the CenterTrack setup we have is still in great condition. I run our belt somewhat looser than the Gates spec, and so it seems our cranks spin a little more freely than when I test the belt at the spec tension. The formula I use for belt tensioning is embedded between my ears. Sorry, not portable to your iPhone
A couple of us packed a spare belt for backup, but those were not needed. I loop my belts (ie: DO NOT FOLD) in the same manner as they are shipped when new. That requires a little faith on the final loop where you need to apply a little twist to get the belt to flip into a uniform 3-loop state, then drop it into a USPS cardboard envelope. This is probably the safest means of transporting the belts while traveling.
Last edited by twocicle; 10-03-13 at 04:29 PM.
#35
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Did you did have to oil the drive chain regularly on your wet tour?
#36
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About 18 months on the Gates belt with no issues or visible wear to pulleys. Runs clean and quiet.
#37
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Loved our belt until it broke climbing a hill after about 400 km of use. Gates refused to warranty it. Installed as per directions. Left us stranded in the boonies and we were lucky to get a ride. We've gone back to a chain and I continue carry a couple of spare links and a connector in the saddlebag.
We do quite a few long rides every year. The tiny weight savings wasn't worth the risk of another failure in my opinion.
Also, chain tattoos? Seriously?
We do quite a few long rides every year. The tiny weight savings wasn't worth the risk of another failure in my opinion.
Also, chain tattoos? Seriously?
#38
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Loved our belt until it broke climbing a hill after about 400 km of use. Gates refused to warranty it. Installed as per directions. Left us stranded in the boonies and we were lucky to get a ride. We've gone back to a chain and I continue carry a couple of spare links and a connector in the saddlebag.
We do quite a few long rides every year. The tiny weight savings wasn't worth the risk of another failure in my opinion.
Also, chain tattoos? Seriously?
We do quite a few long rides every year. The tiny weight savings wasn't worth the risk of another failure in my opinion.
Also, chain tattoos? Seriously?
We broke a belt standing out of the saddle on a 10% grade hammering in the big ring. That belt had been installed incorrectly. 4 years later, still using a belt, we've had no breaks.
And why were you stranded? The stoker can still pedal you home, albeit a bit slower.
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#39
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Given that it broke at 400km, its highly probable that somewhere along the line, installation or otherwise, the belt was twisted in a manner not prescribed braking the internal fibers.
We broke a belt standing out of the saddle on a 10% grade hammering in the big ring. That belt had been installed incorrectly. 4 years later, still using a belt, we've had no breaks.
And why were you stranded? The stoker can still pedal you home, albeit a bit slower.
We broke a belt standing out of the saddle on a 10% grade hammering in the big ring. That belt had been installed incorrectly. 4 years later, still using a belt, we've had no breaks.
And why were you stranded? The stoker can still pedal you home, albeit a bit slower.
Mine also broke hammering up a steep climb, one week before our "A" event of the season. If we had gone for an easy ride that day instead it likely would have broken somewhere in the middle of that "A" event, also without any warning. My point being is that you have this very fragile and delicate timing belt. You have no way of knowing if it's any good or not other than if it doesn't break while riding it. I can inspect just about everything else on my bike and tell when it's starting to wear out but I can't detect that. I'm sure that you and I are not the only ones who have had belts fail like this.
As far as being stranded, yes, my stoker could have gotten us home and had it been flat that wouldn't have been too bad an option. The time deadlines of babysitters and such add a different perspective. We're not talking about life and death here we're talking about degrees of inconvenience and annoyance. I'm sticking with my reliable timing chain.
#40
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I'd summarize the pros and cons like this:
Cons:
1)Cost, more expensive than a timing chain set up, however, the difference has gone down a lot, and is pretty small compared to using very light chains, but is still significant if you use cheaper chains.
2) lack of field serviceability. Properly handled, I don't think the belt is more likely to fail than a chain, but a chain is easy to repair. Unless, you're touring with panniers, carrying a backup belt really isn't practical.
3) friction loss. My bet, based on looking at the limited data, and our experience running the belt at a lower tension than spec'd, is that the Belt tensioned just high enough not to skip has slightly more drag than a chain but not as much as the reported data indicates.
4)Wear. While durability is touted as an advantag for the belt, in our experience, the pulleys wear out much faster, than timing rings. Caveot hear would be that this conclusion comes from the original system. We don't have enough miles on the center drive system to reach a conclusion regarding the center drive system.
Pros:
1) weight: 4-10 ounces lighter depending on what chains and rings you compare it to,
2) maintainence. No cleaning, no oiling. Not sure how big of advantage that is when you have to clean and oil the drive train anyway.
3) cleanliness. it is nice to have one side oil free, particularly if you're putting the bike in a car.
4) "connectedness" between stoker and captain. We definitely feel like we have more immediated feedback through the pedals with the belt.
Running a chain at higher tension, might mitigate some of this advantage.
5) Bling factor. People always comment of the carbon fiber belt.
On balance, for us, it's a close call. So far, the "connectedness" element has kept us favoring the belt.
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You could hit a tree and die.
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You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
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#41
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This appears to be the newest thread on pros/cons of chain -vs- belt.
Since the center-track belt & pulleys are out, does anyone have long-term experience with them? How do they wear long-term? Is this truly maintenance-free? Do they ever squeak?
Does the limited number of belt / pulley choices limit the crank center -to- crank center choices? Is this an issue?
I really appreciate you early adopters.
Since the center-track belt & pulleys are out, does anyone have long-term experience with them? How do they wear long-term? Is this truly maintenance-free? Do they ever squeak?
Does the limited number of belt / pulley choices limit the crank center -to- crank center choices? Is this an issue?
I really appreciate you early adopters.
#42
Banned
The Gates Chain wheel cogs are a Bit too much on the weight saving side
(LBS has a Broken Trophy of one breaking on a Tour and the rider had to hang out for 4 days to get a spare in ,
I read Florian Schlumpf in Switzerland has a Aluminum metal crank "belt" ring that is more durable than the Gates ones.
Now sold in Germany as the CHF is too expensive .. haberstock mobility - Home - haberstock mobility GmbH
Products - haberstock mobility GmbH
(LBS has a Broken Trophy of one breaking on a Tour and the rider had to hang out for 4 days to get a spare in ,
I read Florian Schlumpf in Switzerland has a Aluminum metal crank "belt" ring that is more durable than the Gates ones.
Now sold in Germany as the CHF is too expensive .. haberstock mobility - Home - haberstock mobility GmbH
Products - haberstock mobility GmbH
#43
Senior Member
This appears to be the newest thread on pros/cons of chain -vs- belt.
Since the center-track belt & pulleys are out, does anyone have long-term experience with them? How do they wear long-term? Is this truly maintenance-free? Do they ever squeak?
Does the limited number of belt / pulley choices limit the crank center -to- crank center choices? Is this an issue?
I really appreciate you early adopters.
Since the center-track belt & pulleys are out, does anyone have long-term experience with them? How do they wear long-term? Is this truly maintenance-free? Do they ever squeak?
Does the limited number of belt / pulley choices limit the crank center -to- crank center choices? Is this an issue?
I really appreciate you early adopters.
wayne
#44
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We now have the center track belt on our CoMo. We run the tension as light as we dare and haven't had a skip. We've only had it on since early May, about 700 miles ago. We bought the setup from Universal Cycles for $233. I think it will last longer than the CDC since ring wear won't cause the belt to slip off. The CDX ring teeth look like they are coated with a tougher wear preventative than paint. So far no bare metal showing on the teeth. It was the teeth that wore out on the CDC setup, not the belt.
We tour with the belt. We figure we can buy rings and 2 chains at any bike shop. It is nice to have the better feel between captain and stoker.
We tour with the belt. We figure we can buy rings and 2 chains at any bike shop. It is nice to have the better feel between captain and stoker.
#45
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This is our second season running the CDX setup and not problems at all. We also are running it with lighter tension than suggested with no skipping. We have enjoyed it so much that we have converted several of our tandem friends into installing on their bikes too!
#46
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I honestly don't recall when we put on the CDX belt, but we weren't far behind the first teams using it. We've put about 5,000 miles a year on it, so we're definitely over 10,000 miles.
With the CDX we can run lower tension, without skipping . Looking at the rings, they're definitely worn significantly, but no effecto on operation yet.
We're sufficiently happy with it that we did end up specing it on our new Calfee.
With the CDX we can run lower tension, without skipping . Looking at the rings, they're definitely worn significantly, but no effecto on operation yet.
We're sufficiently happy with it that we did end up specing it on our new Calfee.
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#47
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So - CDX pulleys have a center groove and no flanges - correct? Are the pulleys aluminum or plastic? I think that we are planning on a left side sync chain (belt). I didn't follow the thread on the right side sync so I'm not aware of the advantages. I'm sure that as with most things, there are advantages & disadvantages.
#48
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The pulleys are aluminum, and yes there's center groove, no flange.
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You could fall off a cliff and die.
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You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
#49
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We have had a CDX belt for almost two years and have over 6000 miles on it including lots of miles on gravel and loaded touring. We also run lower tension on the belt. The only problem we have had was one time a stick popped up and got caught between the belt and ring causing the belt to come off, but not causing any damage. We carried a spare belt when we toured in Cambodia and Laos but never needed it. Our rings are showing minor, insignificant wear which I suspect is mostly caused from by sand when riding on gravel roads. I definitely like the fact that the belt stays clean and that we do not have to clean it after riding on unpaved roads.
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Local tandem shop had a machine with belted timing and drive with a Shimano 11spd internal hub. No FD, no chain. Hub needs 5 ml of new oil/yr.
Attraction, minimal maintenance, belt costs $75 per shop owner and lasts 25k miles or so. Sounds very attractive. Internal hub needs total change
in shifting however, you shift only while not pedaling so even with close coordination some momentum loss on hills is unavoidable.
Attraction, minimal maintenance, belt costs $75 per shop owner and lasts 25k miles or so. Sounds very attractive. Internal hub needs total change
in shifting however, you shift only while not pedaling so even with close coordination some momentum loss on hills is unavoidable.