Here is a picture of the way I ran my handlebar cables, I did not like the way you had to run them initially so this is what I did. In order to route them like this I had to cross the derailleur cables under the boom tube but, in my opinion, it makes the front cable routing much neater.
You caught me at the right time as I was just about to wrap the captain's bars.
I also thought about running the gear cables around the outside, but preferred not to have the wrap around the outside and back. Instead, I went with the dual front cable solution... had one cable there so why not two? I tested the wire friction levels with both routes and didn't notice any diff.
Here's a couple shots of my install - temporary ugly cloth tape and all. I will be reducing my stem length by 1cm and so the cables will have that much more loop in them once complete. The current setup does allow full steerer rotation - to 90 degrees either direction without binding.
I struggled mostly with the location of Calfee's cable routing holes in the frame and how to provide cable casing stubs with end ferrules even inside the frame, and in-line adjusters all in the mix. Eventually got it all put together and the wires move very smoothly. The in-line brake cable adjuster was provided in the Avid BB7 brake kit. I tried to figure out a useful location to install a Dura Ace in-line gear indicator, but failed as the cable routing and grip ergonomics take priority.
The cable type is from the Jagwire Racer DIY kit which is suppose to be compressionless. I'm not sure if the braided look casing is any different spec than the solid casing type - they advertise them as all the same. I liked the look of the braided. Other than what came in the standard kit, I only had to provide 2 long run wires for the rear brake and derailleur. The kit's derailleur cables reach the front derailleur with plenty to spare, and obviously the front brake is a standard bike distance.