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Tandem Cycling A bicycle built for two. Want to find out more about this wonderful world of tandems? Check out this forum to talk with other tandem enthusiasts. Captains and stokers welcome!

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Old 05-01-12, 06:07 AM   #1
Tandem Tom
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I installed my Inline Gear Indicator!

I picked up a inline gear indicator and after a bit of web surfing felt confident about doing the install. Still a newbie at working on our bikes.
The problem I encountered was how to get the cable out of the Ultegra STI shifter. I started taking apart the little covers but could not see how to access the cable. So a call to the LBS and load up the Speedster and up to the LBS I head. The guy there was not sure how to remove the cable as he had never had to replace one. But he called a sister shop and got the answer. By this time I was thinking about just having him complete the job. But Russ said,'Hey, you took my Maintenance Class you can handle this". So I load the Speedster back up and head home. After taking careful measurements,I am a woodworker so I Always Measure Twice & Cut Once, I unwrap the bartape cut the cable housing do the install and IT worked!
Now no guessing when we our out riding
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Old 05-01-12, 06:34 AM   #2
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Glad you got it worked out. Congrats.
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Old 05-01-12, 12:16 PM   #3
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I have these too, and LOVE em. I may put them on my single as well. But on the tandem it's a huge help for the obvious reason.

I put one into both the front and rear derailleur cables. I know ... I should be able to remember where I am on the front, and/or feel from speed vs cadence. But it is SO easy with the indicator and I couldn't find a reason not to.

"Why work, when there's a reasonable alternative?"
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Old 05-02-12, 10:47 AM   #4
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They do look nice to have. I'd like one too but you make me nervous about finding out how to remove the cable from the Ultegra index shifter.

Can you tell us the secret?
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Old 05-02-12, 12:41 PM   #5
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After I disconnected the cable splitter,I have S&S couplings, I pushed the cable forward. The "ball" end came out the bottom of the shifter! I would never have found that without the help of my LBS guy. Also after I rolled the hood forward I had to remove some of the tape,from the bar tape install, to be able to direct the cable with a small screw driver. After that it was very easy to complete.
I also took this opportunity to see how to replace a brake cable should the need arise while we are touring. I just needed a "0" phillips screw driver. I went out today a bought a cheap one for the tool kit.
So as far as installing it was quite easy after figuring out how the cables ran.
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Old 05-03-12, 01:43 AM   #6
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I can't believe the guy at your LBS didn't know how to remove the cable from a modern STI shifter. Are you sure that shop is worth visiting again?
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Old 05-03-12, 06:42 AM   #7
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I can't believe the guy at your LBS didn't know how to remove the cable from a modern STI shifter. Are you sure that shop is worth visiting again?
That's a very good question.
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Old 05-03-12, 06:32 PM   #8
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I can't believe the guy at your LBS didn't know how to remove the cable from a modern STI shifter. Are you sure that shop is worth visiting again?
A Typical for more shops than you would think now days. My bikes & Tandems that I own never go back to the LBS for anything. All my Co Motions were delivered to the LBS in the box unasembled by request to Co Motion by phone when I ordered them. They were then delivered to the LBS left in the box un-touched. I picked them up and built them up my self my way. The proper way by spec, no scratchs or LBS shop mistakes like we leaned it up against another bike or missed with an allen wrench and put a scrape or scrach in the paint or that was not quite adjusted or installed right kind of thing going on. Even with a factory production bike such as my Giant Carbon road bike, Giant Hybrid bike, my Trikes I take them all home tear them down to the bare frame and put them all back together right, you would be supprised what you find wrong and out of spec... Some are going to rake me over the coles but my bikes are perfectly build and look, shift and perform at there best.

Ride Safe,
Bill G
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Old 05-03-12, 08:43 PM   #9
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A Typical for more shops than you would think now days. My bikes & Tandems that I own never go back to the LBS for anything. All my Co Motions were delivered to the LBS in the box unasembled by request to Co Motion by phone when I ordered them. They were then delivered to the LBS left in the box un-touched. I picked them up and built them up my self my way. The proper way by spec, no scratchs or LBS shop mistakes like we leaned it up against another bike or missed with an allen wrench and put a scrape or scrach in the paint or that was not quite adjusted or installed right kind of thing going on. Even with a factory production bike such as my Giant Carbon road bike, Giant Hybrid bike, my Trikes I take them all home tear them down to the bare frame and put them all back together right, you would be supprised what you find wrong and out of spec... Some are going to rake me over the coles but my bikes are perfectly build and look, shift and perform at there best.

Ride Safe,
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So then I must ask, and I agree with your logic to building your bikes, how often does each bike see a full teardown to the bare except for removing headset cups?

PK
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Old 05-03-12, 10:23 PM   #10
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So then I must ask, and I agree with your logic to building your bikes, how often does each bike see a full teardown to the bare except for removing headset cups?

PK
Only if needed based on natural ware and milage or mishap. Most all my bikes have sealed bearings the few that don't get serviced every year. Rear hub freewheel serviced every year. I keep an eye on things and repair, replace as needed other than maintaining wear items, chains, brakes, cables, cable housing and so on.

I keep them blown off with air and wiped down with a damp soft cloth after every ride so there is no dirt build up. Drive trains are maintained to a tee and kept clean. They are not ridden in the rain so again no build up or hidden rust. They are stored covered with bike covers.

All threads on frame and components built with a special high tec anti sieze and the bottom brackets installed with a special teflon tape and anti sieze lubricant eliminates any squeaks and seals threads from elaments. Built this way there is no issues with corrosion or rust or gaulding of bolts or fasteners in the future life of the bike. Everything is adjusted and torqued to spec. over all they run a long time pretty trouble free other than wear item being replaced as needed.

To answer your question after the long spill above because of all this a complete teardown to the frame is realy not needed again unless I am doing a comeplete componets upgrade to the bike.


Ride Safe,
Bill G
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Old 05-04-12, 04:50 AM   #11
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OP, pics of the final result please?
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Old 05-04-12, 05:47 AM   #12
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I will post one today.
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Old 05-04-12, 06:06 AM   #13
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... how often does each bike see a full teardown to the bare except for removing headset cups?
Like Bill G, I build my own bikes from the frame, for similar reasons. To PMK's question- I built my single in 1976. I did the down-to-the-frame overhaul/rebuild in 2008. There were many maintenance steps in between, as needed. The rebuild was as much to update components as for maintenance. (For example, go to 9-sp cassette, integrated shifters, triple front.) Tho 30 years and tens of thousands of miles approaches or exceeds the "service life" of many components, even good ones. I built the tandem in 1989, and overhauled that in 2009, again as much to update to modern conveniences as for maintenance. I might, or might NOT, have to do another down-to-the-frame on either or both, before I'm gone.

I worked in a bike shop way back when and I really enjoy doing my own work as well. But then I'm the kind of guy who changes the oil in my cars myself too. Partly cuz I can do it faster+ cheaper than Jiffy Lube. And partly cuz Jiffy Lube (or some such similar) once neglected to tighten the drain plug on my son's car, resulting in it dumping its oil on the approach to the Golden Gate Bridge. That was an interesting phone call. Not that I'm perfect, and all God's people make mistakes once in a while. But
(a) I care more than the guys in the shop
(b) I'm the guy who gets to enjoy it, or not, or gets stranded, depending on the quality of work
(c) I put my family on the bike (not to mention my own sorry keister...) and fly down a hill. I know, they need to limit their liability yadda yadda. But they do that with insurance as much as with care and craftsmanship.

So yeah I'm happy to know how to do it, enjoy doing it, and enjoy the results. And I understand it doesn't work for everybody too.
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Old 05-04-12, 07:41 AM   #14
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Like Bill G, I build my own bikes from the frame, for similar reasons. To PMK's question- I built my single in 1976. I did the down-to-the-frame overhaul/rebuild in 2008. There were many maintenance steps in between, as needed. The rebuild was as much to update components as for maintenance. (For example, go to 9-sp cassette, integrated shifters, triple front.) Tho 30 years and tens of thousands of miles approaches or exceeds the "service life" of many components, even good ones. I built the tandem in 1989, and overhauled that in 2009, again as much to update to modern conveniences as for maintenance. I might, or might NOT, have to do another down-to-the-frame on either or both, before I'm gone.

I worked in a bike shop way back when and I really enjoy doing my own work as well. But then I'm the kind of guy who changes the oil in my cars myself too. Partly cuz I can do it faster+ cheaper than Jiffy Lube. And partly cuz Jiffy Lube (or some such similar) once neglected to tighten the drain plug on my son's car, resulting in it dumping its oil on the approach to the Golden Gate Bridge. That was an interesting phone call. Not that I'm perfect, and all God's people make mistakes once in a while. But
(a) I care more than the guys in the shop
(b) I'm the guy who gets to enjoy it, or not, or gets stranded, depending on the quality of work
(c) I put my family on the bike (not to mention my own sorry keister...) and fly down a hill. I know, they need to limit their liability yadda yadda. But they do that with insurance as much as with care and craftsmanship.

So yeah I'm happy to know how to do it, enjoy doing it, and enjoy the results. And I understand it doesn't work for everybody too.
Great points and my take on the hole thing is the same as yours, I to know this approach is not for everyone. I to enjoy working on them as much as riding them and take great pride in the way they look and perform. When your at a club ride and someone goes is that new when did you get it and you say no I have had it for several years and there jaw drop's, kinda makes it all worth it in a funny way. (Don't get me wrong here) as you look over at there new bike that looks like it's been thrown in the rocks 20 or thirty times and all through the ride they have shifting issues or other problems, in there deffence this stuff may not be that important to them and that's ok by me. I don't mean to sound high and mighty here but I do not like these kinds of problems on long outings or like to spend the kind of money spent on a good bike today and not take care of it, it is like pulling my teeth with pliers if I don't take care of them..

And like you said my family & wife the most important things trust me and that bikes ability to keep us safe on it, Tandems go fast and they need to be in top shape all the time..

I just do not feel you get the attention to detail that I demand over all out of the LBS.

Ride Safe,
Bill G
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Old 05-04-12, 07:51 AM   #15
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I will post one today.
Yes pic's would be great Tom, I have never installed one in all these years of cycling and doing my own work.

Sorry about the slight Hi Jacking of your post about the lack of smart's, detail and care at LBS shops and us guys that do our own work, my apologies to you friend..

Ride Safe,
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Old 05-04-12, 11:28 AM   #16
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I suspect a lot of people on this list are like me. I believe in building our bikes from the frame up.

Our first tandem was ordered through a tandem specific dealer with specific instructions not to cut the fork steerer period. I made sure I saw the manager right it on the order sheet. After waiting quite a while for the bike with a custom paint job I made the one hour drive to the shop and guess what the steerer was cut - too short. To their credit the shop agreed that they were at fault and the guy who built the bike up didn't read the order sheet. Not surprising since he also put the 45cm stoker drop bars on the front and the 42cm captain's bars on the stoker stem! I was able to make it work with an up slanting stem and choose not to make them order another fork. We would have had to send the original fork back for paint matching so who knows how long the wait would have been.

As far as maintenance goes I would rather trust my work since I am the one risking my skin when bombing down a hill. I don't clean my bike after every ride but do check critical items like brakes, tires and cable before riding. Try to wash it and give it a complete check about once a week (100-150 miles). My feeling is that if it is has quality components durable enough for the job and is assembled properly then the bike should function a much longer time without any service except chain lubrication as needed.

I used to baby it but don't really go in for the new bike look anymore. Doesn't bother me if the the hoods and saddles show some wear (not tear) from thousands of miles of riding. A few scratches are going to happen from rocks and such. For me the tandem is for go not for show.

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Old 05-04-12, 04:00 PM   #17
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Pic off Inline Gear Indicator

Here is a pic of the inline gear indicator.
I hope this works . This is my first time attaching a pic.
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Old 05-04-12, 04:10 PM   #18
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Here is a pic of the inline gear indicator.
I hope this works . This is my first time attaching a pic.
Tom that looks pretty nice, looks like you did a fine job.

Ride Safe,
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Old 05-04-12, 04:14 PM   #19
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OP, pics of the final result please?
FWIW, this is working great on a 10spd Ultegra setup and does not interfer with hand positions on the bars or other do-dads. Besides visibility, the biggest concern is some form of strain relief on the cables at both ends of the indicator, otherwise it will break.
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Old 05-04-12, 06:43 PM   #20
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Thanks for the pic. Looks very nice!

Quote:
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Here is a pic of the inline gear indicator.
I hope this works . This is my first time attaching a pic.
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Old 05-06-12, 10:35 AM   #21
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Here is a pic of the inline gear indicator.
I hope this works . This is my first time attaching a pic.
Ah! I had been confused about how you achieved this. It gives me something to work with for my own inline indicator desires. Thanks!
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Old 05-14-12, 11:44 AM   #22
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I've got a readout at least as precise built right into the trigger shifters that came standard on our Raleigh Coupe. I was hoping this Inline Gear Indicator would actually tell you what cog you were on. The IGI as pictured and our Shimano Trigger Shifters are better than nothing at all, but short of buying a 'Flight Deck' computer, is there anything more accurate than these indicators?

H
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Old 05-14-12, 01:22 PM   #23
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I've got a readout at least as precise built right into the trigger shifters that came standard on our Raleigh Coupe. I was hoping this Inline Gear Indicator would actually tell you what cog you were on. The IGI as pictured and our Shimano Trigger Shifters are better than nothing at all, but short of buying a 'Flight Deck' computer, is there anything more accurate than these indicators?

H
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Old 05-15-12, 06:41 AM   #24
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I have these on our tandem and FWIW on our bike, they DO reliably tell you exactly which cog you're on. You can't see it so well from Tom's pictures but "live and in person" it's really very easy to read, and it tracks with which cog 100%.
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Old 05-15-12, 11:11 AM   #25
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I am considering one for the chain ring. Sometimes I just get a brain fart and cannot remember!!
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